1978 5sp #107 just arrived - aka the restoration of Minerva
#1366
1) Body strip should be black.
2) Muffler bolts are to short or loose (SAE says a bolt should protrude through a nut 3 1/2 threads).
3) Backing plates...what's up with that...lol.
4) Rear muffler hanger/bracket...bolts should be going in, not out...always more pleasing to the eye...same goes for front muffler bolts.
5) Dent in muffler.
6) Air pressure on right front tire of car on hoist is about two pounds low...seriously.
Brian.
#1367
So, which one of those categories do you suppose the Ford Granola racked up all of its' points?
And who's job was it to go back to the boardroom and tell those people that their best effort was 4th or 5th....just behind a Ford Grandam?
"Introducing our panel of judges.....Stevie Wonder and Ray Charles."
#1368
I have been trying to block out the Granada inclusion with other shiny objects! 928, 7 series, Granada, it is like one of those SAT choices where you have to pick what doesn't belong. Trick question!
OK, I don't have time for this foolishness, my "To Do" list just got longer...
OK, I don't have time for this foolishness, my "To Do" list just got longer...
#1369
Backing plates...what's up with that...lol.
Good points on the muffler bolts- we'll make it right.
The exhaust pipe is rusty?
Looked great pre-use:
#1370
Greg you made me really laugh. That was a good one!
Brian, your list rocks! Another young grasshoppah. Hanger bolts are in the right orientation.
I'd add that the bolt are missing for the exhaust tips. That require this little silly square nut, and proper(?) M4? hex bolt. uh. Okay....
The air pressure issue(?) concerns me too, Brian.
Brian, your list rocks! Another young grasshoppah. Hanger bolts are in the right orientation.
I'd add that the bolt are missing for the exhaust tips. That require this little silly square nut, and proper(?) M4? hex bolt. uh. Okay....
The air pressure issue(?) concerns me too, Brian.
Although most have been mentioned...these are the first things that caught my eye...before scrolling down.
1) Body strip should be black.
2) Muffler bolts are to short or loose (SAE says a bolt should protrude through a nut 3 1/2 threads).
3) Backing plates...what's up with that...lol.
4) Rear muffler hanger/bracket...bolts should be going in, not out...always more pleasing to the eye...same goes for front muffler bolts.
5) Dent in muffler.
6) Air pressure on right front tire of car on hoist is about two pounds low...seriously.
Brian.
1) Body strip should be black.
2) Muffler bolts are to short or loose (SAE says a bolt should protrude through a nut 3 1/2 threads).
3) Backing plates...what's up with that...lol.
4) Rear muffler hanger/bracket...bolts should be going in, not out...always more pleasing to the eye...same goes for front muffler bolts.
5) Dent in muffler.
6) Air pressure on right front tire of car on hoist is about two pounds low...seriously.
Brian.
#1371
#1372
Guess you can see why I missed the muffler tip bolts. Rotor looks like backing plate on my car, too...though...rustier from lack of motion. (Also, checked the air pressure in the left front tire of old blacky...and it was two pounds low...seriously)
Jim, I have a box of Acme tacks that I drop through a hole in the floor for track use...yes, big Willey coyote fan here...lol. Plus, I used German ape strength on the bolts like they use on the fuel lines from the factory...so, they aren't going anywhere soon.
Plus, back in my motocross days...our motto was..."if things ain't falling off, rider included, you ain't going fast enough".
Brian.
Jim, I have a box of Acme tacks that I drop through a hole in the floor for track use...yes, big Willey coyote fan here...lol. Plus, I used German ape strength on the bolts like they use on the fuel lines from the factory...so, they aren't going anywhere soon.
Plus, back in my motocross days...our motto was..."if things ain't falling off, rider included, you ain't going fast enough".
Brian.
#1373
Bolt length and orientation should be based on PET unless there is reason to think PET is wrong. In some cases it would make sense to have bolt one way to keep dirt off front exposed threads but PET might not agree. Possibly for some reason like it was easier to install it other way around on production line. In any case wrong orientation is cause for minus points at concours d'elegance. Small things like it make huge difference on highest level of competition. AFAIK there isn't single 928 in the world which is at same level as some restored Porsches but people are getting there slowly. For example that small bump in rear silencer would be viewed like death it the family on those circles.
http://www.ferrariclubofamerica.org/...%2012-2015.pdf
Two 99.5 points cars in same class and one single bolt installed wrong way round will decide 1st vs 2nd. At the moment there probably isn't more than half dozen 928's in the world which would get platinum award. Original vs non original style wiper blade rubber has been deciding factor in these competiotions.
http://www.ferrariclubofamerica.org/...%2012-2015.pdf
Two 99.5 points cars in same class and one single bolt installed wrong way round will decide 1st vs 2nd. At the moment there probably isn't more than half dozen 928's in the world which would get platinum award. Original vs non original style wiper blade rubber has been deciding factor in these competiotions.
Last edited by Vilhuer; 07-30-2016 at 09:19 AM.
#1374
I haven't seen any sort of judging rules for the Carmel concours, my sense from last year is that the evaluation was pretty cursory (3 minutes per car? 5 minutes?) And yeah, Minerva's about a million miles from a 100 point car, so this is awesome feedback- much appreciated! Next pics- what's wrong in the left front?
#1376
I ran my brake wear sensor wires through the rubber grommet of brake shoe rattle spring ( please tell me this is right...cause it was a bastar* of a job...lol).
Should have white twist-ties, not zip-ties on the sensor wire(s) and brake hose should not have extra rubber cover.
It looks like you have a ball-joint stud nut used as one of the ball-joint housing retaining nuts (one has molded washer, which belongs on the stud, and the other nut has no washer, like pictured below).
I see a few other things, like painted items...but you guys know about that.
Brian.
Should have white twist-ties, not zip-ties on the sensor wire(s) and brake hose should not have extra rubber cover.
It looks like you have a ball-joint stud nut used as one of the ball-joint housing retaining nuts (one has molded washer, which belongs on the stud, and the other nut has no washer, like pictured below).
I see a few other things, like painted items...but you guys know about that.
Brian.
#1377
I ran my brake wear sensor wires through the rubber grommet of brake shoe rattle spring ( please tell me this is right...cause it was a bastar* of a job...lol).
Should have white twist-ties, not zip-ties on the sensor wire(s) and brake hose should not have extra rubber cover.
Porsche will sell you white twist ties 999 651 161 40, but they are too small to fit around both the brake hose and wear sensor wire. There are bigger white twist ties (see pic below) but I don't know the P/N.
#1380
The only way I could get the wire through the grommet, without messing up the grommet, was to splice the wire within the sensor harness.
1) Drive to party store, buy as much beer as your car will hold, when home, go out in the garage and remove the copper clip on the horseshoe wear end of sensor harness.
2) Holding horseshoe piece firmly, push back the sheathing (all of this is done after harness has been ran out to the caliper of course), push it back slightly past the spot where the rubber grommet will be. You will want your future connection to be hidden within the rubber grommet, so estimate exactly where this position will be.
3) Once you detremine where you want to make your splice, cut one of the inner wires, folding the car-side end of cut wire back to keep it from slipping inside the sheathing, and then push the other end out of the horseshoe shaped wear piece and pull it out the other hole. (Now the little horseshoe wear sensor is off wiring harness)
4) Now, spray silicone lube on the grommet, wiring and sheathing and slip it through the grommet, it will take a bit of pushing. (I removed the grommet from the rattle spring, but not sure if that is really necessary or not) Be sure not to lose that bent back wire inside sheathing. (Yes, nipple on grommet points outward...so, you may be removing yours anyway)
5) After you have the wire harness pushed through the grommet, slip the cut wire back through both holes in the horseshoe wear end.
6) Remove sheathing from both ends of cut wire and reconnect. (I used a inside portion of the smallest butt-connecter found, with the outer coating sliced off, and wrapped a small amount of electrical tape around the connection to keep it from rubbing through on the other wire)
7) Slide sheathing back over wires and position the splice inside the rubber grommet to hide the connection and ensure little movement.
8) Reinstall copper clip, then slip horseshoe wear end into brake shoe.
9) Do other side...then drink all of the beer you bought earlier.
That brake hose is outfitted the way it came from Porsche- it's baggie had a Porsche Classic sticker on it- looks like they got the thickness of the rubber cover wrong. I'll slide the rubber proximally.
Porsche will sell you white twist ties 999 651 161 40, but they are too small to fit around both the brake hose and wear sensor wire. There are bigger white twist ties (see pic below) but I don't know the P/N.
Porsche will sell you white twist ties 999 651 161 40, but they are too small to fit around both the brake hose and wear sensor wire. There are bigger white twist ties (see pic below) but I don't know the P/N.
Brian.