Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

1978 5sp #107 just arrived - aka the restoration of Minerva

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-20-2016, 01:55 AM
  #1306  
Rob Edwards
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
 
Rob Edwards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 17,564
Received 2,758 Likes on 1,339 Posts
Default

The front lower control arms are the same part number, so they should be interchangeable side-to-side. When the LCAs are new, I would guess that the front and rear rubber bushings are installed on the arms in the neutral position. As best we can tell, Mark's rebuilder must have taken William's used arms that we sent, and replicated the angle at which the old front bushings (which would have taken a 'set') sat. So when the new arms came back, they were no longer 'symmetrical with respect to the position of the bushings. Initially we tried to put them back where they were, but the ride height was absurd. Ended up flipping them side-to-side.

This is just conjecture, I don't actually have pics of the front bushings relative to the arms, before vs. after, but it's the only thing we can think of that would change the ride height.
Old 07-20-2016, 01:58 AM
  #1307  
Rob Edwards
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
 
Rob Edwards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 17,564
Received 2,758 Likes on 1,339 Posts
Default

Little more progress today, got a front belly pan, needs a little love.

Stripping (makes an interesting snap-crackle pop as the paint lets go...)



Naked, top:


Naked, bottom:
Old 07-20-2016, 02:11 AM
  #1308  
crushingday
Burning Brakes
 
crushingday's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Baltimore Md 21212
Posts: 974
Received 69 Likes on 27 Posts
Default

What paint stripper did you use? I want to do mine and my cross member
Old 07-20-2016, 02:30 AM
  #1309  
Rob Edwards
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
 
Rob Edwards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 17,564
Received 2,758 Likes on 1,339 Posts
Default

Jasco paint and epoxy stripper:

Old 07-20-2016, 03:12 AM
  #1310  
crushingday
Burning Brakes
 
crushingday's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Baltimore Md 21212
Posts: 974
Received 69 Likes on 27 Posts
Default

Thank you
Old 07-20-2016, 06:26 AM
  #1311  
The Deputy
Drifting
 
The Deputy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,177
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
The front lower control arms are the same part number, so they should be interchangeable side-to-side. When the LCAs are new, I would guess that the front and rear rubber bushings are installed on the arms in the neutral position. As best we can tell, Mark's rebuilder must have taken William's used arms that we sent, and replicated the angle at which the old front bushings (which would have taken a 'set') sat. So when the new arms came back, they were no longer 'symmetrical with respect to the position of the bushings. Initially we tried to put them back where they were, but the ride height was absurd. Ended up flipping them side-to-side.

This is just conjecture, I don't actually have pics of the front bushings relative to the arms, before vs. after, but it's the only thing we can think of that would change the ride height.
Disregard below statement...thought you said a-arm...but I see you mentioned LCA.

Having a difficult time wrapping my brain around this. Since the A-arms just pivot on those bushings and doesn't offer any or much resistances. Like when I unbolted my upper ball-joint the other day on the 84, the A-arm just lifted out of the way so I could replace the ball-joint boot...there wasn't any "down pressure" involved from the bushing.

Regardless, glad you found a correction for the issue.

Man, I wish we could leave that belly pan naked...looks awesome that way.

Brian.

Last edited by The Deputy; 07-25-2016 at 09:51 PM.
Old 07-20-2016, 08:19 AM
  #1312  
linderpat
Rennlist Member
 
linderpat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 14,479
Received 2,387 Likes on 1,295 Posts
Default

another point of reference - here's my pump with original box.
Attached Images   
Old 07-20-2016, 11:29 AM
  #1313  
Rob Edwards
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
 
Rob Edwards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 17,564
Received 2,758 Likes on 1,339 Posts
Default

Ed-

Awesome! Request and a question for you-

1- Does the other side have the ZVW113101 sticker on it? If so, any chance you could shoot a good closeup pic of it and the Electro-Air sticker? I want to add them to the '78 sticker collection suite.

2- What does the cigarette lighter plug look like? Black with vertical ribs? Just curious, as the one I got is missing the power plug.
Old 07-20-2016, 01:34 PM
  #1314  
linderpat
Rennlist Member
 
linderpat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 14,479
Received 2,387 Likes on 1,295 Posts
Default

I'll check Rob. Alex also wants box measurements.
Old 07-20-2016, 02:33 PM
  #1315  
Rob Edwards
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
 
Rob Edwards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 17,564
Received 2,758 Likes on 1,339 Posts
Default

William has put about 600 miles on the car, checking stuff out, in prep for the drive to Monterey. Something in the accessory belts was making some noise, the stethoscope pointed to the fan pulley bearings, which we'd not replaced. Pulled it off, removed the old bearings- shoulda replaced them before:



Replacements from 928Intl:


Pressed in, snap-ring back in:


For whatever reason the threads on the fan clutch shaft were a bit gamey- cleaned them up with an M10x1.5 tap, good as new.

Old 07-21-2016, 01:55 AM
  #1316  
Rob Edwards
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
 
Rob Edwards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 17,564
Received 2,758 Likes on 1,339 Posts
Default

One more puzzle piece: later single inlet muffler, modded to work with the '78 intermediate muffler pipe and battery box bracket. Fitted on the car, now off again for cleanup and paint.

Inlet flange (the whole muffler is upside down...):




Lateral view and a week's worth of Diet Coke:

Old 07-21-2016, 02:30 PM
  #1317  
dr bob
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
dr bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 20,506
Received 547 Likes on 410 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by linderpat
I'll check Rob. Alex also wants box measurements.


9.875 x 6.125 x 3.25 outside dims on the box. It is 0.120" thick corrugated board. It is/was a white outer finish with no markings on the box itself. I can generate a flat diagram of the box with fold locations if needed.

I have a good scan of the bilingual (US English and Canadian French) instruction sheet shortly. There's also a separate card insert that includes available accessories, but I'm hesitant to unfold it for scanning unless it's of serious interest.

Rob, the power cable has ribs on the finger-pull area, smooth on the part that fits in the plug, ribbed on the little metal barrel that is the tip. There is one (only) ground strip on the barrel. I can get pics if that would help, but I'm pretty blind right now and for the next week or so (predicted).
Old 07-21-2016, 05:45 PM
  #1318  
VanD
Burning Brakes
 
VanD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 1,075
Received 156 Likes on 23 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dr bob
9.875 x 6.125 x 3.25 outside dims on the box. It is 0.120" thick corrugated board. It is/was a white outer finish with no markings on the box itself. I can generate a flat diagram of the box with fold locations if needed.

I have a good scan of the bilingual (US English and Canadian French) instruction sheet shortly. There's also a separate card insert that includes available accessories, but I'm hesitant to unfold it for scanning unless it's of serious interest.

Rob, the power cable has ribs on the finger-pull area, smooth on the part that fits in the plug, ribbed on the little metal barrel that is the tip. There is one (only) ground strip on the barrel. I can get pics if that would help, but I'm pretty blind right now and for the next week or so (predicted).
I've seen the white box before, but Ed's is just plain cardboard. Are both correct? Can you post a pic of the white box you have?
Old 07-21-2016, 06:44 PM
  #1319  
dr bob
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
dr bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 20,506
Received 547 Likes on 410 Posts
Default Compressor & Box Pics

Here be they:
Attached Images     
Old 07-21-2016, 06:54 PM
  #1320  
William A
Racer
 
William A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: O.C., SoCal
Posts: 415
Received 13 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by The Deputy
Having a difficult time wrapping my brain around this. Since the A-arms just pivot on those bushings and doesn't offer any or much resistances. Like when I unbolted my upper ball-joint the other day on the 84, the A-arm just lifted out of the way so I could replace the ball-joint boot...there wasn't any "down pressure" involved from the bushing.

Regardless, glad you found a correction for the issue.

Man, I wish we could leave that belly pan naked...looks awesome that way.

Brian.
We are convinced the "clocking" of the front lower control arm bushing was the problem. Since every other suspension component was original, same springs, replacement shock measurements identical to original, the only difference was the non neutral orientation of the front bushing mount. Yesterday Mark Anderson was sorting through scores of used LCAs, and they were virtually neutral save from age fatigue.


The effect of reversing the LCAs preloaded it to push up against the spring instead of unloading it by pulling down the suspension. The spring itself will neutralize the preloading so the car won't sit lower than it should.


I do have a concern about travel and premature binding upon compression, but that is another discussion.


Quick Reply: 1978 5sp #107 just arrived - aka the restoration of Minerva



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 02:29 PM.