1978 5sp #107 just arrived - aka the restoration of Minerva
#91
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https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...finishing.html
The master says Silbermetallic #936, per Porsche Classic.
The master says Silbermetallic #936, per Porsche Classic.
I could go on about what is confusing about original Porsche silvers, wrt 928s it is so difficult to match because I've yet to see original finish silver wheels or body. Add age variation, and it's near impossible.
I've found a silver that works for me, and has what I believe is a representative look to the original finish. And I'm good with that.
PS. Be careful matching to Porsche centercaps. Look at mfg date because they changed throughout the years. And they have age variation too. BTDT.
#92
Rennlist Member
'Re LBJs, go steel... esp if you plan to some general driving (grocery-getting, highway cruising).
All my cars get them before leaving the shop, for the same reasons as Greg.
I changed them on my #6 928 too. Though long about the originality aspect. Classified it as service item ala fuel lines, spark plugs. Plus tech bulletin 84-01 to back it up: http://928classics.com/4/category/te...1726dce/1.html
Save the originals or not, doesn't matter. I don't save original spark plug wires either.
All my cars get them before leaving the shop, for the same reasons as Greg.
I changed them on my #6 928 too. Though long about the originality aspect. Classified it as service item ala fuel lines, spark plugs. Plus tech bulletin 84-01 to back it up: http://928classics.com/4/category/te...1726dce/1.html
Save the originals or not, doesn't matter. I don't save original spark plug wires either.
Last edited by Jadz928; 09-21-2015 at 05:19 PM.
#93
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I stopped by 928Intl briefly today to have another look at the wheels with William- I will take back the contention about paint- I don't see any evidence of any finish ever having been on this particular set of wheels- The difference between the inner rim and the wheel face is probably just the face got washed on a regular basis. Not sure how to clean 'em up most gently, perhaps some blasting with walnut shells to clean witout re-texturing the aluminum.
#94
Rennlist Member
I'm not 100% on Silver Metallic #936 per Porsche Classic. I've tried it, and I'm not convinced. I'm also not 100% that the silver I used is well-matched to the original #936, although it was spec'd as such. How's that for confusing?
I could go on about what is confusing about original Porsche silvers, wrt 928s it is so difficult to match because I've yet to see original finish silver wheels or body. Add age variation, and it's near impossible.
I've found a silver that works for me, and has what I believe is a representative look to the original finish. And I'm good with that.
PS. Be careful matching to Porsche centercaps. Look at mfg date because they changed throughout the years. And they have age variation too. BTDT.
I could go on about what is confusing about original Porsche silvers, wrt 928s it is so difficult to match because I've yet to see original finish silver wheels or body. Add age variation, and it's near impossible.
I've found a silver that works for me, and has what I believe is a representative look to the original finish. And I'm good with that.
PS. Be careful matching to Porsche centercaps. Look at mfg date because they changed throughout the years. And they have age variation too. BTDT.
#95
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#96
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Come to think of it, they are reminiscent of my CS wheels before they got re-anodized. That would be easy to do, Al Reed's is right around the corner.
#97
Saw your car, for the first time, this morning.
Very cool project.
I'm doing the mechanicals on #242, right now. Challenging to keep them as original as possible, while making them reliable and safe at the same time.
If you aren't going to ever drive it very far or very hard, I think a good set of aluminum ball joints would be fine. I'm not sure I'd run it at 100mph with them, but from the garage to Sharktoberfest it should be fine. That being said, I've never left a set of aluminum ball joints in any car which I touched the suspension on...there's not enough liability insurance available for any shop to do that!
You've got the right idea. Remove the entire drivetrain and start cleaning. Getting that thick grey paint off of the transmission will be the hardest part of the whole job! While the engine is out, do the head gaskets/weld up the corrosion on the heads/change the studs. This stuff will be in terrible condition and it is a great move to "halt" the aluminum oxidation now, before it gets worse.
Very cool project.
I'm doing the mechanicals on #242, right now. Challenging to keep them as original as possible, while making them reliable and safe at the same time.
If you aren't going to ever drive it very far or very hard, I think a good set of aluminum ball joints would be fine. I'm not sure I'd run it at 100mph with them, but from the garage to Sharktoberfest it should be fine. That being said, I've never left a set of aluminum ball joints in any car which I touched the suspension on...there's not enough liability insurance available for any shop to do that!
You've got the right idea. Remove the entire drivetrain and start cleaning. Getting that thick grey paint off of the transmission will be the hardest part of the whole job! While the engine is out, do the head gaskets/weld up the corrosion on the heads/change the studs. This stuff will be in terrible condition and it is a great move to "halt" the aluminum oxidation now, before it gets worse.
There is lots to correct, but all in all a pretty bones with which to start. A few shots from today's sweaty handiwork:
#98
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Greg, great advice and I appreciate the encouragement. Those heads are definitely coming off, I've seen firsthand what a relatively low mile GTS looked like when you did my heads, it was shocking.
There is lots to correct, but all in all a pretty bones with which to start. A few shots from today's sweaty handiwork:
There is lots to correct, but all in all a pretty bones with which to start. A few shots from today's sweaty handiwork:
My guess is that you are going to get it running and drive it around a bit, so you know what is wrong, before you take it apart. This is a great thing to do, even if you only drive it up and down the block.
#99
Rennlist Member
Nice! Looks like a brand new green wire too. Also, that little space in the back behind the tool panel, and between the foam is for the little red plastic spare light bulb box. Mine came with that, and is filled with bulbs.
#100
I thought if the connector ends were a tan color...it was the original wire? And if the connectors are white...it is newer. Or were some of the earlier replacements tan color? Mine are both tan on my 78 and 84, but look brand new also. Just wondering for clarification.
Question...
1) Is that muffler original to the car. I thought the 78's didn't have a shield over the two short tail pipes.
Thank you,
Brian.
Question...
1) Is that muffler original to the car. I thought the 78's didn't have a shield over the two short tail pipes.
Thank you,
Brian.
#101
Ed, Minerva did come with the orange bulb holder, tools and even the spare belts in the rear section. I removed them to do a little cleaning.
Brian, while I know the later sharks pretty well, the original bits on early cars is a steep learning curve for me. As can be expected, there are also conflicting views as to what was original and what wasn't.
However, what I do know of other marques outside Porsche is that early production often sees variation and exceptions to "standard." I don't have much in the way of ownership history or virtually any paper trail, so I am not sure I will have definite answers to many questions that we all have.
This car had an 84 plastic finned radiator fan, I found a '78 aluminum finned unit I am cleaning up for install.
Again, all great input and much appreciated, keep it coming!
Brian, while I know the later sharks pretty well, the original bits on early cars is a steep learning curve for me. As can be expected, there are also conflicting views as to what was original and what wasn't.
However, what I do know of other marques outside Porsche is that early production often sees variation and exceptions to "standard." I don't have much in the way of ownership history or virtually any paper trail, so I am not sure I will have definite answers to many questions that we all have.
This car had an 84 plastic finned radiator fan, I found a '78 aluminum finned unit I am cleaning up for install.
Again, all great input and much appreciated, keep it coming!
#102
Rennlist Member
I thought if the connector ends were a tan color...it was the original wire? And if the connectors are white...it is newer. Or were some of the earlier replacements tan color? Mine are both tan on my 78 and 84, but look brand new also. Just wondering for clarification.
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#103
Archive Gatekeeper
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Not sure what's supposed to be there and what isn't- do we have a 'spec' for the contents of the bulb kit? There are different part numbers for the US/Canada kit, vs. Japan, for whatever little that that's worth..
#104
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I'll take a picture of my stuff tonight (ie, the stuff in the box you filthy minded people) and post it up.
#105
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Out with the old, in with the new: