Jørn

This is how mine looks, however I think my fenders are replaced at some point:

928#00076

My 1978 USA #00076 had shorter strips but longer than 5". The 1978 ROW #02002 that I am parting out had full length strips.

Rob Edwards

Did a little lunch hour moving today:




Tucked back in:

hwyengr

Even having lived in SoCal for a brief period, every time I see a steep driveway like that, I instinctively think, "Man, that's gotta suck in the snow."

Rob Edwards

Took me about 10 years being away from Rochester, NY before I stopped thinking like that. Eventually stopped carrying the snow brush in the car....

William A

Anderson was following me on the way to Rob's house, and we both remarked at the other drivers' looks as Minerva rolled down the road. In the brilliant SoCal sunshine today, that blue paint was certainly a head turner.

VanD

Ugh...I should have left Rochester after residency...now I'm stuck...that pic made me cringe at how nice your weather is....ALL THE TIME!

William A

As a reminder, Minerva's transmission was operating normally before the restoration started. At some point the box was changed, so somewhere out there is my numbers matching box which I am motivated to reunite with the car someday.


As such, I still wanted a correct transmission until/if the original box can be found. Minerva came from the factory with an LSD, but the box in it currently is from a later car w/o LSD. Between a correct LSD sourced from Jim Doerr and a correct case sourced from Mark Anderson, we are rebuilding the trans in the correct case.


Reverse is quite ragged, I am hopeful a more suitable gear can be found.


Quite sobering to find out new replacement trans parts prices!

Rob Edwards

Yow, that reverse gear is a little crunchy. Did you ever drive in reverse between your house and mine?

Meanwhile, I'm looking at how to marry two firewall insulations together. My bias is to basically cut along the silver paint border on the original, paint the donor with hi-temp silver, and cut it to fit everything below the line. Still need to remove the fuel, vapor, and brake hardlines in the way, but on an otherwise bare shell that's pretty straightforward.

All indicative of the little devils that pop out of the details....

William A

Well, not the whole way to your house, lol! But you may remember that I backed Minerva into your garage in November which started this whole saga!


You have seen my driveway, I guarantee you I didn't push it up there when it was running to get it to your house, so I know it went into reverse without a hitch at least twice.

jcorenman

Reverse on the early boxes is non-synchro so the gears take the beating. On the later ones reverse has a synchro, oddly ours was very worn.
Our PO (and yours) must have been doing the J-turns wrong...

The Deputy

If you are using that gear for 5th...you are going to have some serious issues.

Especially, since it's the reverse gear.

Wish I was closer, I have the five speed out of #613...and #225 shifts like butter...so, I could have maybe helped you out.

Brian.

EDIT...Oops...I see you guys know that...reverse gear...but you did have me scared for a minute...lol.

Rob Edwards

William found a good reverse gear in Mark's pile o' spares today, so all good on that front.

We spent tonight getting the tub off the dolly and back on the lift, and doing the prep for the firewall insulation transplant:



Donor insulation has been painted and is ready to splice in:

Vilhuer

Full reverse setup uses three gears. When pinion shaft gear looks like that I would expect other two to also have serious issues. If they need to be changed then 1st and 2nd will also need to be changed as one of the three reverse gears is integral part of lay shaft.

The Deputy

But, whenever you are patching something in...it is normally easier to create a better fit...if you make your patch piece first (after determining a rough idea of what needs to be cut away) and then lay it over the piece to be cut. Granted you could still do this by cutting your patch piece a little larger than what you have already taken off...and trace out for newly sized piece.

This principle works well for body work, too. Folks will get in there and cut away the rusted area...then for the next hour or so...try and fit a patch piece. When actually, you should figure out what is going to be cut out, make the patch a little larger than that area, lay it over top of the rusted area, trace out your new patch...then cut away rusted area just inside or on your lines...weld in new patch.

Anyhow, just thinking out load.

Brian.