91 GT project
#287
For the big pieces on the trans tunnel and along the sills, no glue removal at all, I just removed the sill plates and gently pulled up the carpets. They actually came up pretty easily, maybe 6 years in cold storage helped dry everything out (?)
For the pieces on the trans tunnel covers, the e-brake cover, tool tray, etc, that was just a lot of pulling with fine needle nose pliers to separate each little foldover of carpet off. Some were more enthusiastically glued down than others.
I have a gallon of sprayable Weldwood HHR contact cement leftover from the Turquoise car that I'm planning on using for the carpet re-install, along with a sacrificial HF HVLP gun with 2.0 mm nozzle. Am hoping that's big enough to shoot glue.
http://www.yourautotrim.com/noname37.html
As an aside, I've never tried to remove the door sills before. Stan has an excellent set of instructions here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...me-how-to.html
Here are some pics to go with them:
To remove the door sill covers follow these instructions.
Remove the center pin on the rivet at the rear of the sill,
with a small pin punch push it in, it will fall into the rocker and be lost you will need a new rivet.
Find the the clear push pin along the outer edge of the sill, between the 2 and the 8 and gently pry this up about 1/2 inch or less.
On the inner edge of the sill at the carpet, gently lift the entire edge up about 1 inch. (Nice and slow, to release the medial edge from the S-clips- just hook the sill with your fingers and steadily pull up)
slide the whole sill plate medially towards the seat while holding the clear pin up.
NOTE this will dislodge the outer T-clips from the sill plate. Red arrows mark the slots in the sill that the T-clip heads slide in/out of
Once the outer clips are free the sill plate will come free.
Turn the outer sill plate clips 90 degrees and lift them out of the white sockets. (Black on a '91...)
To install the sill.
Clean the numbers of the sill with plexi cleaner and fix any rust on the rocker, touchup the rocker and wax it.
Have the outer clips installed into the sill plate and any of the inner clips that may have come loose.
insert the tip of the clear pin into the rocker then ,
line up the outer T-clips into the white (black) sockets
Then align the inner clips and gently press the rocker into its seated position.
Install a new rivet.
For the pieces on the trans tunnel covers, the e-brake cover, tool tray, etc, that was just a lot of pulling with fine needle nose pliers to separate each little foldover of carpet off. Some were more enthusiastically glued down than others.
I have a gallon of sprayable Weldwood HHR contact cement leftover from the Turquoise car that I'm planning on using for the carpet re-install, along with a sacrificial HF HVLP gun with 2.0 mm nozzle. Am hoping that's big enough to shoot glue.
http://www.yourautotrim.com/noname37.html
As an aside, I've never tried to remove the door sills before. Stan has an excellent set of instructions here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...me-how-to.html
Here are some pics to go with them:
To remove the door sill covers follow these instructions.
Remove the center pin on the rivet at the rear of the sill,
with a small pin punch push it in, it will fall into the rocker and be lost you will need a new rivet.
Find the the clear push pin along the outer edge of the sill, between the 2 and the 8 and gently pry this up about 1/2 inch or less.
On the inner edge of the sill at the carpet, gently lift the entire edge up about 1 inch. (Nice and slow, to release the medial edge from the S-clips- just hook the sill with your fingers and steadily pull up)
slide the whole sill plate medially towards the seat while holding the clear pin up.
NOTE this will dislodge the outer T-clips from the sill plate. Red arrows mark the slots in the sill that the T-clip heads slide in/out of
Once the outer clips are free the sill plate will come free.
Turn the outer sill plate clips 90 degrees and lift them out of the white sockets. (Black on a '91...)
To install the sill.
Clean the numbers of the sill with plexi cleaner and fix any rust on the rocker, touchup the rocker and wax it.
Have the outer clips installed into the sill plate and any of the inner clips that may have come loose.
insert the tip of the clear pin into the rocker then ,
line up the outer T-clips into the white (black) sockets
Then align the inner clips and gently press the rocker into its seated position.
Install a new rivet.
#288
Thanks for the sill removal procedure.
Stan too.
Nice pics like always.
It's often what looks like a simple job that at the end is not really with our cars!
BTW, congrats for the great job you're doing on this project.
It will be a very nice and rare car for sure!
Keep up the good work.
Stan too.
Nice pics like always.
It's often what looks like a simple job that at the end is not really with our cars!
BTW, congrats for the great job you're doing on this project.
It will be a very nice and rare car for sure!
Keep up the good work.
#294
Yes, pre-spotting with Napisan/OxiClean, then just run the carpets in the washing machine on cold cycle, yes.
Since it can't fit in the washing machine (bigass foam panel on 1/2 the underside), for the rear cargo mat I sprayed the heck out of it with the Napisan/Oxi solution, let it sit for 15 minutes or so, then hit it with the random orbital with a Cyclo 'gray' upholstery brush :
Before (there are 2 mats, Mark gave me a spare in case that rust stain on the lower one (from the Cobalt car) didn't come out):
Working in the napisan with the Porter Cable:
To get all the soap out of it, I laid it in the driveway and just soaked the hell out of it with the hose, then used my hoover steam vac to extract as much water as possible. Then I laid it in the driveway all day today, it's totally dried out now. (Thanks, Santa Anas!)
Still not as clean as the carpets that went through the washing machine, tho- there's a bit of yellowing around the periphery (hard to see in this pic but obvious in daylight). May try another round of napisan.
[img] [/img]
Since it can't fit in the washing machine (bigass foam panel on 1/2 the underside), for the rear cargo mat I sprayed the heck out of it with the Napisan/Oxi solution, let it sit for 15 minutes or so, then hit it with the random orbital with a Cyclo 'gray' upholstery brush :
Before (there are 2 mats, Mark gave me a spare in case that rust stain on the lower one (from the Cobalt car) didn't come out):
Working in the napisan with the Porter Cable:
To get all the soap out of it, I laid it in the driveway and just soaked the hell out of it with the hose, then used my hoover steam vac to extract as much water as possible. Then I laid it in the driveway all day today, it's totally dried out now. (Thanks, Santa Anas!)
Still not as clean as the carpets that went through the washing machine, tho- there's a bit of yellowing around the periphery (hard to see in this pic but obvious in daylight). May try another round of napisan.
[img] [/img]
#296
https://www.simplyoz.com/products/pe...vanish_napisan
Its been around forever - it gets its name as it was used as a soaker for cloth nappies (diapers in US-speak), from back before disposable diapers became common.
Also, stain treatment and soaking instructions on the manufacturer's website:
http://www.vanishstains.com.au/produ...-action-powder
In-Wash:
Top Loader: For most stains, add 60g of Vanish Napisan to your laundry detergent in the washing machine drawer and wash as usual.
Front loader: For most stains, add 30g of Vanish Napisan to your laundry detergent in the washing machine drawer and wash as usual.
Get great results also at 30 degrees- in a cold wash
Soak:
Top Loader: For most stains, add 60g of Vanish Napisan to your laundry detergent in the washing machine drawer and wash as usual.
Front loader: For most stains, add 30g of Vanish Napisan to your laundry detergent in the washing machine drawer and wash as usual.
Get great results also at 30 degrees- in a cold wash
Soak:
- For tough and dried stains: Fully dissolve 30g of Vanish Napisan Oxi Action Powder into 7 litres of warm water (max 40°C) and leave it to soak. Leave to soak for a minimum of 2 hours.
- After soaking, wash as usual with regular detergent or rinse thoroughly. For best results on tough stains, rub the stains out of the clothes before rinsing.
- Always follow the usage instructions on the Vanish packaging. Do not use on wool, silk or leather. Do not soak metal buttons or zippers.
- Mix 30g of powder with a full lid of water (max 40°C)
- Apply the paste on the stain and rub as needed (leave for max 5 mins).
- Clean and dry the lid before placing back into tub.
- After Pre Treating, wash as per 'In-Wash' instructions
#300
Sunday night kid homework, piano practice, and other ADLs intervened. Part of the fun is project management- there's no point in having a running engine until there's a driver's seat, which should be back from the upholsterer Thursday or Friday. Recolor that next weekend, while having the rest of the interior in by then too. So technically I don't need the intake on for a whole 'nuther week...
Mark is also being very patient, fortunately he's not counting on this to be his daily driver.
Mark is also being very patient, fortunately he's not counting on this to be his daily driver.