So my water pump started leaking on my 84 928. I've been reading up on the job but have a few questions. I have heard that the crank bolt can be removed with an impact wrench but that the radiator must come out. Has anyone had any problems doing this? I don't have a flywheel lock. I've got one for a 944 but that's differant I heard. Also does the water pump gasket need to put in dry or with grey Rtv on both sides? Do you use blue lock tite on the water pump bolts? Any help is appreciated. I've done this in a 944 and this seems easier.

 

Not sure about the impact wrench and radiator removal to get the crank bolt out. Some have used a breaker bar braced against the floor and bumped the engine with the starter motor after pulling the fuel pump fuse or coil leads so the engine won't start. This will loosen the crank bolt. Factory doesn't call for any sealant on the WP gasket but some use a thin coat of RTV on the WP side and leave the block side of the gasket dry. Don't put blue Lock Tite on the bolts. Much better to get new stainless steel bolts and apply some Lock Tite PST non-hardening thread sealant. Will make them come out much easier next time and provides a great seal.

Mike

 

Did mine two times and never had to use an impact. If you use an impact, you will need to remove the radiator as you won't have enough space.
I used a 1/2" socket set with an extension bar and it did the trick. With the radiator still in place. A 3/4" would be the best way to go though.

You need the flywheel lock to do this job.

I put mine dry. Didn't have problem.
If you want to put some sealant, I would suggest to put a thin layer on the water pump side only.
Easier on your next job as you won't have to remove the old sealant on the block! But that's me.

No Loctite on the water pump bolts.
Like Mike said, new SS bolts. I used silver anti seized without any problem (so far) but I like the idea of the thread sealant. Next time maybe.

Hope this help.

 

you should read these sources before you start. The write up will be fine for your model year as well. No need to pull the rad, use a breaker bar with the socket and you will be fine. You cannot do the job without a flywheel lock, altho I do know one of our number (and one of our more technically savvy brethren) who just puts the car in gear instead of the flywheel lock. Anyway, read these things:

http://static.ibsrv.net/autocomm/Con...ber%202012.pdf

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ubricants.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...questions.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...an-enough.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ater-pump.html

http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/tbelt.html

 

Does anyone here in Phoenix have a flywheel lock I can borrow? Pm me if so.

 

Use a 3/4 bar to bust that nut. A 1/2 does not have enough mustard and usually flexes too much- at least it did for me.

 

Here is a picture of my block. I guess it sat

 

Got half way and noticed my tensioner bushings were shot. So I ordered a set and will replace the bolt too. Only had to repair threads on one water pump bolt and it was from the previous job. Belt looked ok even though the pump was gone. It must have been the original pump because it still had the metal impeller. Although the recess in the block for the impeller had some putting it wasn't scored or in need of repair. The threads posted here have been a lot of help. The only weird thing is my passenger cam moved off mark when I removed the belt. No biggy ill line it up once I put the new belt on. I used this break to do some general cleaning and tighten the bolts for the oil pan on the front that you can't get to unless the balancer is off

 

Put the new tensioner bushings and bolt in wow! What a difference! I put the belt on and got everything lined up. Started to put the covers back on and what the heck!!!! I'm missing a bolt? Must have been eaten by the garage bolt eating monster. Oh well Ill get one Tommorow. Covers on and pulleys on. More tommorow.

 

Is'nt it amazing how the garage monster eats nuts and bolts! Just did my WP and Porkentensioner job, went to tighten up the nut on the alt bracket and no nut to turn! Eaten by the garage monster? Fortunately the old tensioner wheel had a M8 nut so I just used that. Glad your job went well, I snapped 2 bolts and was damned happy that was it. Had to drill and retap, what a PITA. Reinstalled with silver antisize to prevent this in the future.

 

I still hold the record. 10 wp bolts snapped. Not a record to be proud of.

 

There was nothing wrong with my waterpump when I had to remove it to install the 928 MS deflector plate that comes with the oil control kit. I even reused the old gasket, heh heh. I dislike RTV. Try my favorite stuff: (comes in both brush can and spray) http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...sealant-detail
I have been using it for years and love it.

 

Well got it back together just to find out I had the tensioner pulley bolt in backwards and its but was hitting the dampener. Won't do that again.

 

Yeah I put one bolt in the wrong way and Oh boy did it make a pain. I got sparks coming off the nut I put in the wrong way as it touched the back of the harmonic balancer. It scraped the paint off the back of the balancer and made a mess. Ive got to pull the covers off, the belts and the brackets to get at the tensioner. There goes at least a few hours of pain. Guess it teaches me to check the manual twice and not once.

 

Finally got it together with the tensioner pully bolt pointed the correct direction. Everything is adjusted correctly. I did however notice that the right side of the timing belt on the right bank is a bit loud. Seems like the tension on the belt is correct but that bank is louder. Might be just me. Anyone with some experience chime in. I replaced the tensioner oil and seal and bled it out after the belt was tensioned. everything is nice and lubed so if the belt is cycling under tension to slack faster than the tensioner is reacting Im stumped.