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New supercharger for 84 us auto L-jet!

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Old 03-14-2014, 11:33 PM
  #16  
DKWalser
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Originally Posted by rnixon
Oh yes! I'd love to do a twin turbo install. The price that we pay for sun, snow (not so much this year) and jobs ..
There's plenty of sun, snow (in the mountains), and jobs in Arizona. Besides, living in Arizona gives you an excuse to drive through the mountains to San Diego. You can actually drive at freeway speeds until you, ahem, get past the mountains and the traffic requires you to slow down.
Old 03-14-2014, 11:48 PM
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j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
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Originally Posted by Hold On
I just took mine off. Ran like a champ for 30K miles. Car is going back to stock while I decide what craziness to do next. Here you go.
Wow! Your setup looks fantastic. I hope mine looks half as good when I am finished. Thanks for sharing.
Dave
Old 03-15-2014, 12:54 PM
  #18  
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Those installs look nice and clean.
Will this kit affect emissions in a major way? Even if it did, wouldn't it just be a matter of removing the belt? In my area, pre-OBDII cars are checked for a cat, gas cap test and then run through its paces on a dyno. Never had them pop a hood or question an exhaust system as long as it has something that appears to be a cat.
Old 03-15-2014, 02:45 PM
  #19  
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Been debating this on my 82...maybe your posts will motivate me.
Old 03-15-2014, 02:50 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 19psi
Those installs look nice and clean.
Will this kit affect emissions in a major way? Even if it did, wouldn't it just be a matter of removing the belt? In my area, pre-OBDII cars are checked for a cat, gas cap test and then run through its paces on a dyno. Never had them pop a hood or question an exhaust system as long as it has something that appears to be a cat.
I would think with a dyno test, you would have to do some fuel tuning to pass. You run your car on the rich side with the S/C installed. I am thinking it would be a bit more involved than just removing the belt, but doable.
Old 03-16-2014, 03:46 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 19psi
Those installs look nice and clean.
Will this kit affect emissions in a major way? Even if it did, wouldn't it just be a matter of removing the belt? In my area, pre-OBDII cars are checked for a cat, gas cap test and then run through its paces on a dyno. Never had them pop a hood or question an exhaust system as long as it has something that appears to be a cat.
A well designed and properly set up supercharger installation shouldn't adversely affect the tailpipe emissions. There are Murf928 supercharger kit equipped cars have passed tailpipe emissions tests without any retuning for the tests, and without removing the supercharger or it's belt.
Old 03-16-2014, 04:39 PM
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j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
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Originally Posted by Z
A well designed and properly set up supercharger installation shouldn't adversely affect the tailpipe emissions. There are Murf928 supercharger kit equipped cars have passed tailpipe emissions tests without any retuning for the tests, and without removing the supercharger or it's belt.
Hi Z,
I am aware of mixture adjustment on the AFM, idle speed adjustment, timing, and BEGI RRFPR adjustment. Are there other ways to adjust a boosted L-jet?
Thanks,
Dave

Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; 03-16-2014 at 05:50 PM.
Old 03-17-2014, 11:23 AM
  #23  
Carl Fausett
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Will this kit affect emissions in a major way?
No. Typically, there are two exhaust emissions sampling tests performed, one sample is taken at idle, and the other is a highway simulation.

At idle: the supercharger is not producing boost and there is no fuel added. The emissions systems on the car (air pump/EGR system, catalytic converter) are not altered in any way during the supercharger installation. As a result - your emissions at idle will be the same after supercharger installation that it was before.

Highway simulation: This is often performed by holding the throttle at a steady-state of about 2300 rpm (it varies) while the wheels are being turned with a slight load on them to simulate wind resistance. The test is meant to simulate a steady-state cruise of about 55 MPH (it varies a little by local laws). Once again, the engine will not be under boost while steady-state cruising, and no fuel will be being added, and being no adjustment to the original tune or to the emissions equipment, there will be no significant change in emissions at the tailpipe.

It is common for a supercharged car to pass emissions with the supercharger installed and running on these two tests. Those that have to remove their supercharger to go get re-certified do so to pass a visual inspection. Some states (CA) and counties require a visual inspection as well as a sampling test, others just take a sampling test and that's all.
Old 03-17-2014, 11:33 AM
  #24  
Carl Fausett
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I am aware of mixture adjustment on the AFM, idle speed adjustment, timing, and BEGI RRFPR adjustment. Are there other ways to adjust a boosted L-jet?
Nothing reasonable. There is a way to modify the internal circuitry of the Air Flow Meter and the CPU, but it would be considered advanced and also not needed for this kit. This is a low-boost kit, and the FMU (Fuel Management Unit) we supply will be the only adjustment you need or want to make.

The L-Jet system was a stop-gap solution while the LH-Jetronic system was being developed, and only shipped to the US and Canada. It is a very simple system, and has little in the way of adjustments. That said, it is largely trouble-free and very dependable.
Old 03-17-2014, 04:33 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
Hi Z,
I am aware of mixture adjustment on the AFM, idle speed adjustment, timing, and BEGI RRFPR adjustment. Are there other ways to adjust a boosted L-jet?
Thanks,
Dave
If things are set up reasonably well, and working correctly, the ECU will make adjustments to the fuel mixture based on the O2 sensor feedback that it receives.

One common emissions test is the IM240. It's the test that used to be used in the Chicago area, until they changed to only testing OBD-2 cars. The IM240 test measures the tailpipe emissions as the car is operated on a set of rollers. A specific acceleration, deceleration, and steady state course is followed, which is supposed to simulate typical driving conditions. The person running the test "drives" the car on the rollers following the vehicle speed program shown on the computer monitor. If he deviates too much from the specified speeds, acceleration, and deceleration rates, the computer ends the test, and it must be taken again. The tailpipe emissions are measured over the entire course of the driving simulation, and emissions must stay within the acceptable range for some specified portion of the entire test. If the emissions are acceptable at idle, steady cruise, and most of the test, but jump out of the acceptable range at times like acceleration for too much of the test, the car fails the test.

Under normal driving, the air/fuel mixture should remain basically the same as stock on a properly done supercharger installation. The rates of acceleration that occur during the IM240 test normally shouldn't be high enough to cause the engine to go into a situation where the mixture is enriched so much that the test is failed. That's if the technician performing the test stays within the specified speed ranges anyway, and doesn't get too enthusiastic playing around with the car.
Old 03-19-2014, 11:18 AM
  #26  
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Hi guys,
I received the installation manual a few days ago. It is a bound 80 page document with color pictures. It is very clearly illustrated and well written. I feel certain that I will have no problem with the install. I will not rush the install, but I think a couple of days on a weekend, working methodically, should be no problem. Time will tell, however, depending on my skill.
Thanks, Carl for a very nice manual.
Dave
Old 03-19-2014, 02:54 PM
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Thanks for keeping us in the loop!
Old 03-19-2014, 04:16 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
Hi guys,
I received the installation manual a few days ago. It is a bound 80 page document with color pictures. It is very clearly illustrated and well written. I feel certain that I will have no problem with the install. I will not rush the install, but I think a couple of days on a weekend, working methodically, should be no problem. Time will tell, however, depending on my skill.
Thanks, Carl for a very nice manual.
Dave
Take your time. This install is a little more complicated than it looks. It is not all plug and play and you will need a reasonable mechanical aptitude to do it. There will certainly be some tweeking and adjustments going on. If you have not done it already, I would suggest you invest in a wideband A/F meter and sensor for monitoring whats happening. The digital type is more accurate than the colored LED band type. Initial adjustments to fuel pressure are just that. There will be some fine tuning. Also the cooling fans supplied can be marginal for hot weather so you may find you are needing more. Good luck with the install.
Old 03-19-2014, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Hold On
Take your time. This install is a little more complicated than it looks. It is not all plug and play and you will need a reasonable mechanical aptitude to do it. There will certainly be some tweeking and adjustments going on. If you have not done it already, I would suggest you invest in a wideband A/F meter and sensor for monitoring whats happening. The digital type is more accurate than the colored LED band type. Initial adjustments to fuel pressure are just that. There will be some fine tuning. Also the cooling fans supplied can be marginal for hot weather so you may find you are needing more. Good luck with the install.
Thanks hold on
I am in no hurry and the idea of a wide band air fuel meter sounds good. One is included in the kit, but you may be thinking of something more. I will stay in contact.
Thanks
Dave
Old 03-23-2014, 11:27 PM
  #30  
j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
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Hi guys,
Well I am still waiting for the kit. I am reading Corky Bell, and gathering incidental parts (new heater valve and short hose, 8 new spider rubber couplings, big AFM o-ring, etc.). I have been studying the install manual. Oh and BTW I told Carl to make mine the Stage II kit with the inter-cooler and 9 psi pulley. The inter-cooler plumbing is the only additional work and this gets me a cooler charge and a little more power even at the middle rpm range. Even more power at the top end of course. Cost is the only drawback, but I save duplication of effort by doing the work now.
Will keep posted.
Dave


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