Found a model from GrabCAD of the strait blade version of the fan, so made a complete assembly with the flaps and hardware for visualization:

 

That price is much better!

Be careful how you read that spec. That is in free air (not while the vehicle is not moving) the spec is based on the vacuum created in front of the blades. This is a factor of the design of the blades and fluid dynamics. So, you will never achieve the 1300 cfm in the spec sheet.

 

The 12" high-output fan is quite a bit larger, and would require redesigning the shroud. I think that the low profile performance fans are perfectly acceptable for most, but if someone wanted to front the cash to buy a set of the fans for mockup,and pay the fabrication fees, I would be willing to make a high-output version. The datasheet for the big 12" is attached. I think it would pull too much current for the factory fan control module, so it would require an aftermarket controller or solenoid setup.

 

Well in that case, let's stick with what you've got, I'd rather make the bet it's enough than muck with the fan controller module.

 

what are the measurements of the cone inlets?

 

Any estimate on what the shroud is going to cost?

 

The intake snouts are a 3" OD for use with common ducting.

I wont have pricing back for a couple days.

 

Hans,
Any thought as to making an additional "snout" for the engine air intakes to get cooler air from in front of the radiator instead of the hot air from above the radiator?

 

i should have clarified. what are the inlet (oval side) dimensions? are they S4 sized?

 

It is not exactly S4 geometry. I "optomized it slightly. It would be possible to make it the same as the S4 though. It would take a couple hours tonight to get it identical to the S4. Whats it worth to you? As it is now, the inlets are situated for ease of running intake plumbing behind the radiator.

 

Hans,

I am a little puzzled here. The fan you show will- I suspect fit straight into our Spal twin fan units. If you purchase one I would be interested to know if it fits straight into the stock unit or whether the motor can be removed to replace the failed one.

For some reason known only unto SPAL they equipped this unit with one sealed motor and one that is not- utterly bizarre. Indeed it was myself who uncovered this fact. Does not really worry me but then I do not see too much rain or dampness.

I contacted SPAL over this and they admitted my observations were correct but pointed out one cannot purchase a replacement sealed motor and one would have to purchase a fan unit to get one. We believe the unsealed fan invariably fails before the sealed unit.

When DR heard about this he was very concerned and was considering removing these from his offerings. Not sure what the latest is on that particular front.

Regards

Fred

 

Fred,

I put the Spal issued dual-fan setup on my car, and the unsealed fan failed in about a years time here in Indiana with very limited driving. I spoke with my Spal guy two years ago at the IMIS show, and he said the same thing, you could replace the motor... but that still didnt solve the issue of mouting the unit and the upper air-dam. The factory Spal dual 12 is almost a perfect fit, but requires a bit of trimming, and then the easiest method of mounting is upper and lower screw bosses made from angle extrusion, but its a pain to remove that lower fastener when the engine is hot. The design I propose puts the only fasteners in an easy location to reach, and will fit exactly and allow installation of the sealed units from the beginning. It is also 0.5" slimmer than the Spal design for even more clearance. I am not dissuading anyone from buying the factory Spal offering, but when you add in the cost of the air-dam, throwing away the unsealed motor, buying a spare motor/fan assembly, re-installing it, then fabricating a mount and trimming the housing.... it just doesnt make as much sense to me as designing the right part from the get-go. I am making this for me, as I dont like wrestling the factory fans, and my existing Spal unit is on its way out. I was thinking that it may be useful to other owners, especially those with forced induction who need the room for plumbing or extended pulleys.

 

Bingo!

 

Hans,

Your logic is sound - I purchased mine directly from SPAL as DR could not supply one of his at the time. I had to butcher my stock fan assembly to recover the top section [which I recently broke].

I am not sure of the mounting for a stock radiator but I have a custom made aluminium radiator and it has a flange fro mounting the fan assembly at the bottom. I simply made some brackets from one of my wife's aluminium barbeque skewers that are a bout 1 inch wide. To fit the fan assembly I simply engage the lugs at the bottom and fasten two secrews at the top. I can have the fan assembly "Gone in 60 seconds" and that before the movie came out!

I like your 3D CAD work. I recommend the SPAL unit because it is good value, liberates space and works well- the motor failure is a matter of concern. I suspect the motor in that unit will fit directly if not the entire fan this of interest to me as I have one.

Regards

Fred

 

id want to use my Kuhn filter kit snouts, they are made for S4 inlets... (not sure on siding......) if they fit, count me in. sent an email to Kuhn, see what the size is