StratfordShark

I'm in middle of changing PAS fluid and reservoir, so while I'm under there I want to try to fix the issue where my steering wheel is off-centre (20-30 degrees down on left side) when I'm going straight.

Have removed the plastic screw from rack, and when the steering wheel is horizontal, the dimple in the rack is lined up precisely in the hole. In this position I can see the front wheels are angled very slightly towards the right. I suppose I could just pull the steering wheel in its off-centre position, and put it back on rotated, but I would like to do it properly with that dimple just where it should be.

Forgive my ignorance on steering issues, but can I adjust the wheels to straight ahead using that nut at outer end of tie-rod (presumably doing exactly same adjustment each side)? Does it just adjust the thread in and out or do adjustments have to be made at the inner end? If so what kind of movement would correct that down and to the left skew of steering wheel?

I do have the centering bolt. If I can just adjust that outer nut does the bolt have to be inserted and tightened in the dimple while the tie rod is adjusted?

Thanks for advice,

Adrian

davek9

There is no "inner" adjustments, just loosen the nut and turn the shaft.
From the looks of it you may want to soak the threaded end w/ penetrating oil before.

I have never been able to get the adjustments correct w/o a measurement tool, maybe you will be lucky?

Dave

StratfordShark

Thanks Dave will hit it now with PB Blaster.

Would you know correct torque for that nut (don't want it coming adrift on the road!)? The wsm says tie rod to ball joint is 45Nm, is that referring to that nut?

GlenL

You really need an alignment shop to get this right. Does it have an airbag? If not the first step is to center the rack, as you've done, and then remount the steering wheel on the shaft.

I suggest taking it for an alignment after that because it might really need an alignment now and I don't think you can get it right just counting threads or measuring as you move one tie rod in and the other out. The geometry isn't all in a straight line. Might be good enough but a (good) shop will do better. If you go that way, don't forget to settle the suspension beforehand.

StratfordShark

Thanks Glen. I really would like full alignment done soon (want to install new front shocks first, and do mounts) but Iwas hoping that since the wheel is correct with rack centred, that I could just adjust the wheels for dead ahead by eye while turning the tie rod.

Maybe I should wait for proper alignment, and just do the adjustment at the steering wheel? Would mean not having equal full left and full right travel at wheels though.

I will at least put penetrant on overnight, and see what other Rennlisters add!

davek9

You won't be able to "eye it", you will need a way to measure like a laser attached to the wheel and shoot a mark as a reference point, do a search, its been covered here.

I would have to look up the torque, tie rod to ball joint doesn't sound correct.

GlenL

Sorry... I missed that the wheel is good with the rack.

I've tried a few times to align mine and it was never good enough to use but just good enough to get me to the shop. Others may have better results and have better equipment. The issue with the front needing to settle make adjusting and re-measuring hard.

FredR

Adrian,

You can quite safetly make the same adjustment both sides and your alignment will not change- just that the centrepoint will change and if you adjust the correct number of turns you will end up with something that narrows the gap. Whether you can get it spot on remains to be seen but it would probably take a number of iterations.

If you have to lift the wheels off the ground then it will take for ever but if you can get the tie rod moving whilst on the deck at full lock then it may be relatively easy to get improvement. Ultimately of course there is not subtitute for getting the car on a Hunter laser alignment machine.

If the steering wheel is aligned with the centre point on the rack it should be a doddle. Just make sure you turn the sleeves the correct way both sides. If you alignment is off to tstart with then it is all irrelevant.

Regards

Fred

dr bob

I made these vernier scales to put on the tie rods so I could keep careful track of adjustments made. The line spacing is such that the rotation is split into ten equal parts. They wrap around the tie rod, with a layer of packing tape to hold them in place. The edge with the lines sits right up against the locknut. There are right and left, with numbering such that toe-in increases as the numbers get bigger.

The single-line wraps go around the threaded part of the tie rod end, a few threads from the nut, with the line at the rear horizontal position so I can see them looking forward from behind the wheel.

Using these to center Adrian's wheel as he describes it, starting at steering wheel 30º left of center, the tie rods will be adjusted in opposite directions. The left wheel will need less toe-in. so the tie rod will be rotated towards numbers decreasing. The right wheel needs an equal amount of adjustment in the opposite direction. If you move the tie rods the same number of lines, the tow when you are done will be the same as it was when you started.

--Write Everything Down Every Time You Make An Adjustment--


I installed the scales initially with the "5" lined up with the line on the tie rod end, both sides. That way I have plus or minus 5 lines before the scale rolls over. I track all the adjustments in my alignment logbook.


The attached PDF is an AutoCAD plot, with scale 1:1. Print the PDF to your printer with scale set at "actual" size, and it will be correct. Most folks use a "fit to page" setting that scales the image to your printer margins, so be sure to get the scaling at 1:1 or actual size for this.

StratfordShark

Ingenious Dr Bob - thanks for attaching the pdf.

I printed these out but just had a double fail in the garage!

First I wanted to use the centering bolt to lock the rack. I had bought one years ago (00072191320) but iI couldn't get the thread started into the rack. The threads in the hole look shiny so I don't know what the problem is. I thought maybe I had got the wrong bolt and Porsche had ones with different threads for different rack, but it came in sealed bag with the above part number which is the right one.

OK the rack locks anyway with no key in ignition, so I set about loosening lock nut on RHS. Seems to be a 22mm which I didn't have as a wrench but do have set of crows feet up to that size. I could loosen the locknut (put on PBlaster overnight), but then the tie rod didn't want to turn when I grabbed it with my hand and checked for movement.

At this point I thought these were sufficiently bad omens to give up before taping on DrBob's vernier. I will just rotate the wheel a few splines instead. Not best approach, but when I get proper alignment will get it done properly then. Want to fit new tie rods too if mine are seized up.

Bill Ball

Notice the flats on the shaft. I believe they accept a 15mm open end. That's what you use to turn the tie rod. Without Dr. Bob's vernier I use quarter turns, but I have to be careful to make sure I do them so the toe center changes in the correct direction. Turn, lock, check if the steering wheel is now centered when driving straight. Repeat until centered. Refine with 8th tuen or whatever needed to get it spot on. You are far enough off it may take a few turns.

Moving the steering wheel will leave you with the rack not centered and the tie rods unequal length. You would have to move it back to its current position before the alignment.

FredR

Try as Bill says- there is no way it will turn by hand I suspect- you need to get a spanner over the flats- even a small pair of stilsons if push comes to shove, and it should turn assuming the lock nuts are released. I doubt that even UK road salt can get in there albeit it does seem to get into just about anything anywhere.

No matter which way you look at it if you cannot turn it you cannot align it. If you choose to do as I suggested put an [chalk] index mark on the sleeve so that you can religously count the number of turns applied each side.

Regards

Fred

StratfordShark

Damn - I didn't notice the flats!

You guys are up early and I should have waited. Just read these having moved steering wheel instead.

At least I can get it back in position easily - I know the wheel is perfectly horizontal with rack dimple in centre of inspection hole. But I'm going to leave this for now.

Thanks for advice on flats and how to move rods - learnt something at least!

Adrian

Imo000

Pop the wheel and straighten it out.....then grab a beer.

dr bob

22mm for the lock nut. 15mm Fits the flats in the tie rods. One of the big reasons for the vernier is that there's a bit of rotation of the tie rod end on its ball before the tie rod sleeve rotates on the threaded tie rod end.