A 86.5 Intake Refresh Picture Thread from a first-timer
#121
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Colin, thank you for your suggestion to get crow's feet wrenches. They worked in getting the fuel line off the fuel cooler, and a Greg Brown replacement onto the fuel cooler.
It was rather warm today so I spent some time in the garage, installing the intake runners.
When I put the fuel rails in, to my chagrin, the fuel rail did not line up- at all- with the fuel pressure regulator.
Is this a common problem when reinstalling fuel rails? What did I do wrong here?
It was rather warm today so I spent some time in the garage, installing the intake runners.
When I put the fuel rails in, to my chagrin, the fuel rail did not line up- at all- with the fuel pressure regulator.
Is this a common problem when reinstalling fuel rails? What did I do wrong here?
#122
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Gatineau, Québec, Canada
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Took a look at mine yesterday (intake removed) but can't see anything wrong in your picture. Sorry.
I'm sure someone here will find out.
Here's a picture of mine without he fuel rail before the intake removal.
#123
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The thick 'wave' washer at the base of the FPR looks like its big nut is not compressed- is that nut loose? That might move the FPR back a mm or 2. And you can bend its L-shaped bracket.
The ball end on the fuel rail gives you a little flexibility, but not much- shouldn't have to force it too much!
The ball end on the fuel rail gives you a little flexibility, but not much- shouldn't have to force it too much!
#124
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Betrand and Rob,
Thank you for your replies.
For other newbies out there:
I loosened everything and tried again. I don't think there is any secret, I just jiggled things until the "ball" from the fuel rail mated with the "cup" of the fuel pressure regulator. Before screwing them together, I applied a thin coat of Drei Bond to the "ball" part of the fuel rail, to prevent leaking.
Then, I tested the integrity of the fuel system. I pressurized the fuel lines/rails by removing relay IV and cranking the starter. Jim Bailey suggested it in this thread.
In this thread, he says:
Anyway, the first time I pressurized, there was a small leak at the front of the 1-4 fuel rail, because I hadn't screwed Greg Brown's line in tight enough. After securing it, I pressurized again. I rubbed my fingers around the circumference of each junction and then smelled them. No gasoline smell. I will try again tomorrow, but hopefully we're all good there.
Thank you for your replies.
For other newbies out there:
I loosened everything and tried again. I don't think there is any secret, I just jiggled things until the "ball" from the fuel rail mated with the "cup" of the fuel pressure regulator. Before screwing them together, I applied a thin coat of Drei Bond to the "ball" part of the fuel rail, to prevent leaking.
Then, I tested the integrity of the fuel system. I pressurized the fuel lines/rails by removing relay IV and cranking the starter. Jim Bailey suggested it in this thread.
In this thread, he says:
It is safer to just pull the ignition relay and crank the engine on the starter motor. The fuel pump runs when cranking.
[By] jumpering the fuel pump you COULD if you had a leaky injector spray fuel into a cylinder. Then, when you do start the car, if another cylinder fires before the one with liquid gasoline in it on the compression stroke that piston cylinder would be trying to compress a non-compressible liquid. That can bend the connecting rod , lift off the head, or split the cylinder. So, never have the fuel pump running for long unless you wish to remove all the spark plugs and be sure that there is no pool of liquid gasoline in one of the cylinders. While this rarely happens the results make it worth mentioning.
[By] jumpering the fuel pump you COULD if you had a leaky injector spray fuel into a cylinder. Then, when you do start the car, if another cylinder fires before the one with liquid gasoline in it on the compression stroke that piston cylinder would be trying to compress a non-compressible liquid. That can bend the connecting rod , lift off the head, or split the cylinder. So, never have the fuel pump running for long unless you wish to remove all the spark plugs and be sure that there is no pool of liquid gasoline in one of the cylinders. While this rarely happens the results make it worth mentioning.
#125
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
One of the fuel lines I replaced was Greg Brown's line between the fuel pressure regulator (on the passenger side) and damper (on the driver's side.)
I had to make sure that it was oriented correctly- otherwise it would kink. I managed to orient it in a way that 1) it wouldn't kink, and 2) wasn't touching anything.
I had to make sure that it was oriented correctly- otherwise it would kink. I managed to orient it in a way that 1) it wouldn't kink, and 2) wasn't touching anything.
#126
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
After testing the fuel system, I put the intake side plenums on. It looks easier than it is, because it is kind of a pain to get the rubber gaskets around the tubular openings for the side plenums. What I ended up following was this procedure:
1) Put two hose clamps on runner, loose.
2) Put gasket on intake runner, but not all the way- keep it loose.
3) Put a bit of some lubricant (I used 303 Aerospace Protectant.)
4) Repeat for all five gaskets (on each side.)
5) Push side plenum into gaskets, being careful that the gaskets don't fold.
6) Align two hose clamps on each gasket, making sure that the hose clamps lie in the "groove" that each gasket provides.
7) Tighten carefully.
1) Put two hose clamps on runner, loose.
2) Put gasket on intake runner, but not all the way- keep it loose.
3) Put a bit of some lubricant (I used 303 Aerospace Protectant.)
4) Repeat for all five gaskets (on each side.)
5) Push side plenum into gaskets, being careful that the gaskets don't fold.
6) Align two hose clamps on each gasket, making sure that the hose clamps lie in the "groove" that each gasket provides.
7) Tighten carefully.
#127
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I am frustrated. After attaching my "test rig" to the MAF and pressurizing, I can hear an air noise- but I can't see/hear/feel where it is coming from. The test rig's meter doesn't show any pressure whatsoever. I have a feeling some hose has come loose, I don't know where it is, and I have a sinking feeling that I am going to have to disassemble a ****load of stuff.
#129
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hi Colin,
I pulled off the boxes and the center tube. The hoses that connect to the center tube were securely on there, as was everything else that I could inspect.
Now, the problem is I can't get the center tube back on. It is a very tight fit. Do I need to remove the fuel rails and runners to get the tube back on?
I pulled off the boxes and the center tube. The hoses that connect to the center tube were securely on there, as was everything else that I could inspect.
Now, the problem is I can't get the center tube back on. It is a very tight fit. Do I need to remove the fuel rails and runners to get the tube back on?
#130
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well, I was in the garage today, panicking, unable to get the center "T" back on. A quick post to Rennlist here and I got the "T" back on.
I filled it up with coolant and noticed some coolant dripping. When fiddling with the fuel pressure regulator/fuel pressure damper/ "U" fuel line and the fuel rails, I left everything loose. I forgot to tighten two 13mm bolts that hold down that hold down the FPR bracket. I noticed it quickly so didn't lose much coolant.
I filled it up with coolant and noticed some coolant dripping. When fiddling with the fuel pressure regulator/fuel pressure damper/ "U" fuel line and the fuel rails, I left everything loose. I forgot to tighten two 13mm bolts that hold down that hold down the FPR bracket. I noticed it quickly so didn't lose much coolant.
#132
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The Good News...
The good news is that the intake refresh is done. (Sort of.) Here are some pics.
(After taking the pics I noticed that the three-way right above the cross bar slightly to the right of the oil filler was disconnected. I reconnected it.)
(After taking the pics I noticed that the three-way right above the cross bar slightly to the right of the oil filler was disconnected. I reconnected it.)
#133
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
...The Bad News
The bad news is that my car is whistling badly when running. Either that, or there is a miniature jet engine that crawled inside my 928S.
Whistling Sound MP3
Colin, when I spoke with Roger today, he said that pressurizing the intake through the MAF (as I tried to do) would be useless unless the engine was at TDC, he advised me to just try to start the car.
Anyway, I hope that it is an air leak, although I can't imagine where.
Thoughts?
Whistling Sound MP3
Colin, when I spoke with Roger today, he said that pressurizing the intake through the MAF (as I tried to do) would be useless unless the engine was at TDC, he advised me to just try to start the car.
Anyway, I hope that it is an air leak, although I can't imagine where.
Thoughts?
#134
Nordschleife Master
Regardless of the position of the engine there will always be a pair of intake valves open. So you will have SOME leakage past the rings, but not that much......
Sounds to me like you have a leak somewhere.
Sounds to me like you have a leak somewhere.