Bertrand, thank you for your kind words, and good luck on your intake refresh. We are all looking forward to seeing the pictures!

Ken, my next project (starting in a week or so) is installing the PorKensioner and doing the TB/WP job. I can't wait.

One thing that I mentioned earlier in the thread (post 110) was that because I adjusted the throttle position sensor so that it would click when barely turned (about 1 degree, as per the WSM), for some reason the car will not return to idle unless I manually rotate the throttle assembly (see pic below.) It seems that the throttle assembly is a bit stuck- mechanically, I mean.



I don't know if that makes a difference or not.

The other thing is that a family of mice lived on my air cleaner before I did this job. I cleaned the MAF with almost an entire can of MAF cleaner, but maybe my MAF is out of whack. I suppose that I should send my MAF into get calibrated.

I will adjust the idle bypass screw one turn counterclockwise. Thank you for your advice, Ken.

 

Hunting may be the inj controller trying to find the right ratio. Drive it for a while, and see if it clears up. Maybe the O2 sensor as well. If it doesn't clear up, get back.

Oil pressure is fine, just drive it and watch after the car is fully warm. It'll go back where you want.

Thermostat got stuck in a spot on the shaft. No worries also. Just run it, and check the coolant level. It may need to be burped. Keep the heater on full, and rev it pretty hard to push the air out of the coolant if there's a pocket somewhere.

Run it. If the lifters need filling, once the oil warms they will fill. If it's the injectors, you'll know. Different sound. Drive it for a few days, make sure it gets fully warm a few times. You'll also maybe see some smoke on the exh area it's just stuff that fell down as you worked.

 

Kevin at Injection Labs can do your maf. I sent mine to him and it came back rebuilt and transformed the car. Idled cleanly, used much less fuel and went like stink.

http://www.injectionlabs.com/

 

Scott, the entire engine compartment looks absolutely amazing. Your attention to detail with EVERY piece in there certainly shows. I think this is the most comprehensive and beautiful top end refresh I've ever seen. Stunning.
Thoughts on the ticking. When I did my '87 refresh and had the injectors cleaned they ticked quite loudly. I thought it was a problem, but it was just the sound of clean injectors firing properly. They weren't gummed up any longer and the ticking was quite audible at idle.
Job WELL DONE. Hats off to you!

 

Great pictures, nice work.

 

By the way,

A big thank you to Roger Tyson of 928sRUs, who spent hours with me on the phone, getting me the right parts and providing tutorial. Thank you to Mike Frye, whose excellent instructions I followed, and who gave invaluable advice about the throttle body. Thank you and great admiration to Ben Genovese of Legend Garage, who did the powdercoating of the intake runners, valve covers, oil filler neck, and cross brace. Thank you to Greg Brown, who tutored me through the fuel line installation.

Thank you to Jeff Spahn, Simon (76FJ55), Colin J (Lizard928), MainePorsche, Aryan (Leon Speed), Denny (depami), Ken (PorKen), BC, Shane, Jetdriver69, Stan (Mrmerlin), DonCarter, DeWolf, Rob Edwards, Ducman82, and Doc Mirror for looking over my shoulder and providing guidance that I so badly needed. I am grateful to you guys.

If/when I ever meet any of you in person, dinner (or at the very least, a beer) is on me.

 

For newbies like me: a list of what I used to do the intake refresh. I searched Rennlist for each product type, and then settled on what seemed to be the "best practice."

(I don't have any affiliation with any of these products or vendors- included links for others' convenience.)

1) I used it on the hoses that I didn't replace, like the upper and lower radiator hoses. It seems to help condition old rubber.

2) Drei Bond 1209. I used it on the oil filler neck, spark plug gaskets, coolant crossover paper gaskets, and other places that might leak. Greg Brown swears by it- apparently it seals better in the presence of oil.

3) Optimol Paste TA. I bought this from Roger Tyson at 928sRUs. It is a silver-colored anti-seize. I used this every time aluminum made contact with steel. This included the threads of bolts, and when I connected male ends of the fuel system (steel) with the female ends of Greg Brown fuel lines (aluminum.)

4) I believe this is also called Yamabond. It is a silicone gasket sealer that I used in the channel of the valve covers. It is rubbery when it dries. It does not come with an applicator tip- I bought a cheap tube of gasket sealer so I could use its tip with the Hondabond.

5) I used this around the circumference of the camshaft end covers (aka hockey pucks.) Apparently, it needs to be stored in room temperature, and does not last long after it is opened.

6) I used this to remove the rust on my fuel rails, various bolts and brackets. It is great because you can reuse it (When pouring back into the container, I filtered the dirty Evapo-Rust through a coffee strainer.)

7) I needed this to tighten one of the cam cover bolts on the driver's side that is impossible to tighten without it.

8) Crow's feet wrenches in 17 and 19mm, to counter hold, remove (and replace) the fuel line from the fuel cooler to the fuel pressure regulator. (If you decide not to replace fuel lines, you won't need this.)

9) I used this on every Bosch terminal (male and female ends.) Injector plugs, temperature sensors, things like that.

10) Butt splices. I used these when replacing broken injector plugs. Roger sells injector plug kits that include a new plug, terminals, and boot.

11) Danco Silicone Faucet Grease. I bought this to lubricate the injectors before they went into the fuel rails. According to several sources, it is Dow Corning 111, repackaged in a different container. is more expensive and hard to find, while the Danco product is available at Home Depot.

12) Any time I had a nut, bolt, anything that wouldn't turn, I applied Kroil and let it sit overnight. It really saved me with the bonded rubber buffers that were broken and difficult to remove.

Hope this list is helpful to someone.

 

Nice pictures , great work!!
Makes me want to go back and redo a "refresh"

 

Stunning work...Inspiring work. It's amazing how several "first timer" threads turn out to be models of excellence. The importance of these examples to others contemplating such tasks is tremendous.

BTW...I had an 86.5 with the ticking injectors. I can't remember which Rennlister told me, but he said the 85 and 86 injectors tick loudly. Closing the hood mostly blocked the noise, but not entirely.

 

That engine is a thing of beauty. Nice work! Don't let the little quarter-turns on hose clamps and other trivial imperfections bug you too much, the last 2% of the job takes more than 2% of the time. I'm still tweaking my last intake refresh on my old GT, from 2500 miles away.....

 

Did you change the cap and rotors yet?
Have you checked the timing?

 

Pop off the cable ends and adjust them so the throttle plate closes easily.
(One end of the relay rod is adjustable, if needed, too. The throttle cable is adjusted at the firewall with 13 and 17 mm wrenches.)

Check when the engine is hot, too. You might find that once the engine gets up to temp, it may not close properly.
(You may have to readjust the throttle plate in this case.)

The idle will be high and somewhat unsteady if the idle switch doesn't close.
There's more advance at cruise and the idle advance map is carefully timed to help steady the idle speed electronically. (Much faster reaction than the idle control valve.)

Even w/o the mouse pee, if the MAF is original, it's a good idea to have it rebuilt.

Change the O2 sensor, too, if you haven't already.

After those are changed, you'll probably have to adjust the MAF CO and idle speed again.

 

I had a weird situation where the hose for my ICV would collapse under pressure. I wondered if the replacement hose wasn't as thick material as the original. You could see it do this by looking in from the rear next to the MAF. I think I ended up putting a plastic tube fitting inside the hose to prevent this from happening.

 

What type of foam did you use for the fuel cooler? I need to replace mine.

 

That foam was bought at Lowe's Hardware. Bring the old foam in (or measure the inside diameter) and they have it. It is very inexpensive.