Barn Find!
#106
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Glad I got to see it in person and spend some time with Don catching up on things. Quite a score and it just shows up on his door step... early 87, 5-speed, no rub strips, clean interior, maybe two dings and some chips. He's probably already touched it up and buffed it out to like new.
Re: the emissions check... so glad to finally age off the dyno rollers, avoiding the hassle, extra cost and the blooming idiots running the damn things!
Re: the emissions check... so glad to finally age off the dyno rollers, avoiding the hassle, extra cost and the blooming idiots running the damn things!
#107
Captain Obvious
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True that, it's marginal at best
But
Weight savings..
Sounds more aggressive..
Ever picked up a rear muffler vs an RMB, there's a noticeable difference.
I'm assuming its got big resonators since its an 87, so should not be too annoying w the RMB.
Actually, here in Texas Don won't need cats either. All the way up to model year 88 are now exempt!
But
Weight savings..
Sounds more aggressive..
Ever picked up a rear muffler vs an RMB, there's a noticeable difference.
I'm assuming its got big resonators since its an 87, so should not be too annoying w the RMB.
Actually, here in Texas Don won't need cats either. All the way up to model year 88 are now exempt!
#108
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Chuck,
I'll probably move the stainless RMB from the 89 to the 87 since the 89 has the small resonators and is a bit too loud anyway. X-pipe will probably not be in the budget for a while with all the maintenance work needed, but I'll get there eventually. Air pump is coming off next weekend when I do TB/WP.
I'll probably move the stainless RMB from the 89 to the 87 since the 89 has the small resonators and is a bit too loud anyway. X-pipe will probably not be in the budget for a while with all the maintenance work needed, but I'll get there eventually. Air pump is coming off next weekend when I do TB/WP.
True that, it's marginal at best
But
Weight savings..
Sounds more aggressive..
Ever picked up a rear muffler vs an RMB, there's a noticeable difference.
I'm assuming its got big resonators since its an 87, so should not be too annoying w the RMB.
Actually, here in Texas Don won't need cats either. All the way up to model year 88 are now exempt!
But
Weight savings..
Sounds more aggressive..
Ever picked up a rear muffler vs an RMB, there's a noticeable difference.
I'm assuming its got big resonators since its an 87, so should not be too annoying w the RMB.
Actually, here in Texas Don won't need cats either. All the way up to model year 88 are now exempt!
#109
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Don: I met you this weekend at the PCA get together at Starbucks. I live near you and may be interested in your 89 if you are looking to sell. Let me know (email is drcoe@stagecoachdental.com)
Keith Coe
Keith Coe
It was good to meet you. It will probably be a month or two before I make a final decision on the 89, but you are welcome to come check it out anytime. It would be nice to sell it to someone in the neighborhood and grow the Cypress 928 club to 3!
#110
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Glad I got to see it in person and spend some time with Don catching up on things. Quite a score and it just shows up on his door step... early 87, 5-speed, no rub strips, clean interior, maybe two dings and some chips. He's probably already touched it up and buffed it out to like new.
Re: the emissions check... so glad to finally age off the dyno rollers, avoiding the hassle, extra cost and the blooming idiots running the damn things!
Re: the emissions check... so glad to finally age off the dyno rollers, avoiding the hassle, extra cost and the blooming idiots running the damn things!
It was good to see you and have another experienced set of eyes look over the car. Let's have an AC session around late March, early April?
Bill and I discovered that the 87 has been repainted, but it looks like it was a quality job with lights and glass removed. Bill spotted a tape line between the roof and the hatch, so we started looking closer and found tape lines in the door jams. Not a big deal for me, but a bit surprised it didn't come out in discussions with the original owner.
#112
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Saturday morning I got to show the car off at a local PCA gathering here in Cypress. (Houston is so big that there are regional PCA gatherings each Saturday in different areas of Houston). It was the largest turnout I've seen at one of these events, and my email to the Houston group resulted in six 928's showing up, more than any other single model. This group has a lot of interest and respect for the 928, so it was fun showing them off.
I got a TB tension warning light Saturday afternoon after getting on it a bit, so the car is now on the lift, ready for the TB/WP job. Might as well get it over with before it gets hot.
![](http://209.160.1.100/photos/WP_20120901_002.jpg)
I got a TB tension warning light Saturday afternoon after getting on it a bit, so the car is now on the lift, ready for the TB/WP job. Might as well get it over with before it gets hot.
![](http://209.160.1.100/photos/WP_20120901_002.jpg)
![](http://209.160.1.100/photos/WP_20120901_003.jpg)
#113
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I'm about 4-5 hours into the TB/WP job and no surprises so far. Big thanks to Rusty for stopping by and helping out.
The block looks real clean behind the WP with no pitting or scaling. I was nervous about this because the coolant looked pretty old. The timing belt did have a small piece of metal or small rock embedded in it, and it had penetrated completely through the belt, so even though the belt was otherwise in pretty good shape, it definitely was a problem waiting to happen.
The cam gear on the passenger side, which is always more worn, has some uneven wear that I've never seen before. There are 4-5 teeth that are shiny but not heavily worn in one spot, then a large section where the coating is not even worn through. The driver's side gear is in pretty good shape, but you can see where the rock/metal piece contacted the gear. It's a tough call on whether to try to get another 45k miles out of the gears given the price of replacement. The aluminum oil pump gear and crank gear both look good. Generally the wear looks consistent with 85-90k miles from what I've seen in the past.
I'm thinking the ignition wires have been replaced since the heat shields are not cracked. Anyone know if the stock wires on an 87 said "Beru" on them with the cylinder numbers?
Time to do some more cleaning and start ordering parts. I'll be going with a PK tensioner and no air pump.
![](http://209.160.1.100/photos/WP_20130223_001.jpg)
![](http://209.160.1.100/photos/WP_20130223_002.jpg)
![](http://209.160.1.100/photos/WP_20130223_003.jpg)
The block looks real clean behind the WP with no pitting or scaling. I was nervous about this because the coolant looked pretty old. The timing belt did have a small piece of metal or small rock embedded in it, and it had penetrated completely through the belt, so even though the belt was otherwise in pretty good shape, it definitely was a problem waiting to happen.
The cam gear on the passenger side, which is always more worn, has some uneven wear that I've never seen before. There are 4-5 teeth that are shiny but not heavily worn in one spot, then a large section where the coating is not even worn through. The driver's side gear is in pretty good shape, but you can see where the rock/metal piece contacted the gear. It's a tough call on whether to try to get another 45k miles out of the gears given the price of replacement. The aluminum oil pump gear and crank gear both look good. Generally the wear looks consistent with 85-90k miles from what I've seen in the past.
I'm thinking the ignition wires have been replaced since the heat shields are not cracked. Anyone know if the stock wires on an 87 said "Beru" on them with the cylinder numbers?
Time to do some more cleaning and start ordering parts. I'll be going with a PK tensioner and no air pump.
![](http://209.160.1.100/photos/WP_20130223_001.jpg)
![](http://209.160.1.100/photos/WP_20130223_002.jpg)
![](http://209.160.1.100/photos/WP_20130223_003.jpg)
![](http://209.160.1.100/photos/WP_20130223_004.jpg)
#114
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Join Date: Feb 2005
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While you have the master cyl out, be sure to check the power brake booster for adequate pressure. I had brake fluid leaking out every week enough to turn on the warning light in my 82. Had the clutch master replaced. Then brakes still felt a little spongy, so I had my mechanic take another look. Turns out master was leaking badly also, fluid pooling in various places, booster was also bad.
#115
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Real good time to check the Hall Sensor and connector. Makes feeding the harness back in a piece of cake also. (This is where damage can occur to Hall when routing harness) I found my wires to be pinched and two were broken all the way. Runs so much better now.
Thomas
Thomas
#116
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The hall sensor connector already crumbled into tiny peices and disconnected just from the movement of sliding the wiring harness behind the passenger cam gear, so that job is definately on the to do list.
#117
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Before I installed the cam backing plate I inserted harness through the new timing belt and let hang. Then I routed the harness to the 12 pin. Now I installed the cam back plate with sensor. I feel this procedure should be included in all TB replacements.
Thomas
Thomas
#118
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After many distractions from other projects and business travel, I finally have the car back together and running.
I did run into an issue with the slave cylinder. I had taken the rod out to install the flywheel lock, and had a real hard time getting it back in place. I removed the two 10mm holding the metal hose on the side of the oil pan, but still not enough movement. The rod would not go into the slave far enough, so I used some long bolts and forced the slave back into place that way, eventually replacing the long bolts with the correct shorter ones. It worked, but now the slave has a slight drip and the clutch doesn't feel right, and it slips when I give it much gas, so not fully engaged.
Any ideas? I'm thinking remove the slave, which is new, inspect, and re-bleed.
I did run into an issue with the slave cylinder. I had taken the rod out to install the flywheel lock, and had a real hard time getting it back in place. I removed the two 10mm holding the metal hose on the side of the oil pan, but still not enough movement. The rod would not go into the slave far enough, so I used some long bolts and forced the slave back into place that way, eventually replacing the long bolts with the correct shorter ones. It worked, but now the slave has a slight drip and the clutch doesn't feel right, and it slips when I give it much gas, so not fully engaged.
Any ideas? I'm thinking remove the slave, which is new, inspect, and re-bleed.
#119
Nordschleife Master
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Check the preload on the clutch master - it sounds like there's too much of it and the port in the master isn't being uncovered when the pedal is all the way up. The slave rod should be fairly easy to push in and reattach the slave to the clutch housing.
When I discovered that problem on my '89 it was a revelation.. after much frustration trying to bleed it, or even reattach it.
Check out page 30-1 in the WSM, and while you're in the footwell, check the helper spring dimension too (on the same page in the WSM).
When I discovered that problem on my '89 it was a revelation.. after much frustration trying to bleed it, or even reattach it.
Check out page 30-1 in the WSM, and while you're in the footwell, check the helper spring dimension too (on the same page in the WSM).