Don Carter

Hilton,

I checked the preload and there seemed to be not enough instead of too much. I had to turn the linkage about 3 turns to get it to line up with the pin, then went another turn like the WSM says.

I think I screwed up my slave cylinder by forcing the rod into it when re-installing after TB/WP. After bleeding today, when I push the clutch in, it very slowly returns, like the slave is binding somehow. Frustrating since it's a new slave cylinder. There doesn't seem to be an easy way to take it apart.

tmpusfugit

Don, I have a fairly new clutch slave, came out of Dogbert ('81). You are welcome to give it a try if it interchanges with the later models.....it was working fine when I removed it and put it in a box....

Don Carter

Jim,

Thanks for the offer but I believe 87+ slaves are different than pre-87's. I'll probably try to take it apart today and see if I can figure out what's going on.

Don Carter

Why did I buy a 5-speed... this is getting frustrating.

I got a new slave cylinder to replace the new slave cylinder that seemed to have the piston stuck in the bore. I could not get any fluid when bleeding so I checked the master and found that it's piston is stuck in the full pedal down position with fluid oosing past the seals. I took the rod, clip and washer out, and tapped on the piston to try to get it to pop out but no luck.

Just to recap, I had the clutch working after I bought the car by rebuilding the master in place, and replacing the slave. Its been down for TB/WP for the last couple of months, and removed the slave to get the flywheel lock in. When I went to replace the slave it was difficult to get the piston in far enough, so I forced it, I know not smart. The clutch worked partially after that, but never felt right and wouldn't fully engage. I then found that the piston was stuck in the slave. The clutch pedal may have been fully down while the slave was disconnected, but not sure if this would cause a problem.

Hilton

Hmm.. are there any receipts for work done to the clutch?

There were some changes to the various bits (guide tube, release arm etc.) over various years, and a mix and match system might not actuate correctly (I'm just guessing here - I've only ever done a complete clutch replacement upgrading my 89 to the full GTS set of parts).

If those bits are correct (i.e. all S4 parts, or all later GTS parts) then the problem has to be the hydraulics, which means either the slave or the master, or both.

In which case, I'd drain the fluid out of the clutch circuit (there's a dam in the reservoir, so it won't drain the brakes), remove and check the slave, pull the guts out of the master, and check the bores for corrosion/pitting. Then after making sure the bores and seals are ok, put it back together, adjust the master's preload (again) and refill.

Stick with it - driving a 5-speed is a heap of fun

Don Carter

Hilton,

There are no records of clutch work, but the black rubber line looks like it has been replaced.

The clutch circuit won't drain, I think because the master piston is stuck in the down position and maybe blocking the inlet hole from the reservoir? I have a new slave from Roger.
The bore of the master was very smooth when I rebuilt it in place and is still smooth.

I can't removed the master guts because the piston is stuck deep in the cylinder. I'm thinking the next step may be to use the front left brake to push fluid back up into the master and try to pop it out, so that I can removed the master guts and inspect.

Tom. M

Use the rod from the pedal to the master to lever the piston out of there....or you can use the rod to depress and release the piston...just keep pushing and trying to lever it out... it will come up but may take some time.. Once the piston is free...make sure everything is clean and bleed per the Kempf method...

Hopefully that will cure your issues..If the master piston doesn't return nearly all the way to the top of the bore..no fluid can make it from the reservoir to the slave...

Don Carter

I got the new master cylinder from Roger today and installed it. Bled the clutch and it's working perfectly!

I have to say the clutch master cylinder/blue hose job wasn't as bad as I expected from all the horror stories here on RL. It only took about 20 minutes to remove the old master, and I'd say it took about an hour to install the new one. It's certainly tedious and difficult to get it in the right position but in my view, not hard enough to start cutting holes in the car. I used a 1' long piece of 14 gauge solid copper wire inserted through one of the holes, to pull it into position from inside the car. You can see the metal fitting and get a 12mm wrench on it from above fairly easily.

To bleed the system, I used a boat out drive oil pump, same one I use to fill the tranny on my autos, to force brake fluid up through the system from the slave. It only took one shot and it was perfect. No pumping the slave required.

Great to have it drivable finally, just in time for Cars n Coffee on Saturday.

Manfred

Congrats. Nothing feels better than getting something that's been troublesome resolved.

Imo000

Well done.

kevinod

Nice! Looks very well in those pics

Don Carter

Thanks.

I got to enjoy the clutch for all of one day, then yesterday decided to install the Lizard shifter. I got it installed but broke the rear coupler trying to press the pin out to replace the rear shift bushings so now I'm waiting for a new coupler to arrive. Should be sweet after that!

Lizard928

Sorry to hear about that. But soon you'll be in the bwaaaaaaa

Don Carter

Well another very frustrating day working on this 5 speed. I finally got the right rear shift coupler, thanks Roger, and got it installed today and the shifter seems to be working but when I went to drive it the clutch went to the floor again. This is after replacing the slave, complete master, not just the piston and the blue line. I had the system bled and working about two weeks ago, but after sitting, it's not working.

I tried about 15 times to bleed the slave by manually working it, letting air out the bleed valve, pumping fluid into the system from below until the reservoir overflowed, all the tricks, nothing worked. At one point the rubber cover on the slave was bulging with fluid which I had to drain off. Don't think fluid should ever be on that side of the piston. I'm beginning to wonder if something is defective. I also noticed that the master piston doesn't always spring back against the washer and clip like it should. Giving up for today, any ideas are welcome.

Mrmerlin

take the slave apart and inspect the seal for damage,
its quite possible that the old MC spring shattered and thus sent metal shards into the slave thus cutting the seal