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Old 04-22-2013, 01:59 PM
  #136  
Aspkiller
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You might consider putting 3 to 4 inch backing plate on both sides of the radiator flange that you attached your poly mount to, in order to spread the vibration load that will occur. Even better, put a cushioned mount completely over the top of the radiator that doesn't even attach - it would just hold down and in place.
Old 04-22-2013, 02:03 PM
  #137  
xschop
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It has the top factory mount at the other end and two large rubber biscuits on the bottom. It's not going anywhere. The poly mount is adjustable front-aft at the large washer at the body.

O.K. I see what you're saying. I'll check my materials and beef the area up. The poly bushings I used completely isolate the bolt that runs thru them.

Last edited by xschop; 04-22-2013 at 02:20 PM.
Old 04-22-2013, 02:26 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by xschop
It's volume disengages LS clutch at high RPM (which vettes had this problem) without over-extending the PP plate fingers. (the 7/8" master was causing this on factory clutches)....And it's brand new

I looked inside the 928 master and it has a "spooge hole" that are infamous for clogging and causing disengagement issues too.

On a side note if you want to keep the factory 928 Clutch MC, you'll want to use an M12 x 1.0 to -4AN adapter to the -4AN clutch line.
I am going to be converting a normal 928 transaxle and engine to use the throw out bearing from a chevy, with Mike Simard's pieces. So I am wondering if I should use this CM.

Spooge hole. lol.
Old 04-22-2013, 02:43 PM
  #139  
xschop
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I have the tech drawings of the 928 BH to PP fingers and the T56 TOB drawing I posted. From another hybrider, the Chevy Cobalt TOB is exactly 1" shorter with the same 1" throw...FYI
Old 04-29-2013, 10:33 AM
  #140  
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Fixed a couple hiccups and back on track. The 6-pak of wire barrels from Autozone and not a damn one fit the LS throttle cam, so I had to spend more time at the shop churning one of these out.....

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Throttle cable is done. It is about 36" and did the trick. The 928 Pedal clevis is easy to insert the cable in and reuse at the pedal....

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Shot of the Vette fuel filter and lines...

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Shot of the heater valve (TPC carries these valves too) and coolant lines at LS water pump...

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Upper and lower radiator hoses that I posted part#'s for. The 32mm steam port adapter worked perfect.....

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Last edited by xschop; 04-29-2013 at 10:51 AM.
Old 04-29-2013, 10:39 AM
  #141  
xschop
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I ported the oil filter adapter with a dremel before installing it. The influent side is always restrictive the way they are machined from factory....

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You'll need 2ea 4.0" x 1/4-20 bolts and screws to easily mount the adapter by drilling 1/4" holes thru the frame and bolting on the bracket....

Again , the adapters use M20 x 1.5 filter bosses and I went with Wix #51324 just as I did on the 948 swap....

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You'll need 4 Ft. of -10an oil/fuel hose. I used Push-Lok -10an fittings (2ea 90 Degree & 2ea straight)...

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Also in the pic above is the High pressure side of the PS rack that I posted part#'s for earlier. The return line stays put and even fits the GM PS reservoir perfectly (I added a billet filter in-line)...

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Old 04-29-2013, 10:59 AM
  #142  
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Lookin' good.
Old 04-29-2013, 12:12 PM
  #143  
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Indeed, great work. Makes me like the LS idea more all the time! :-)
Old 04-29-2013, 06:56 PM
  #144  
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Started adding the relays to the fuze block. The Red/White wire on the 14-pin connector is a smaller guage than the one that goes directly to the fuel pump so I will drill a hole in the firewall and add a larger dia. wire after pulling the factory fuze and relay for the fuel pump...No more $100 relays lol...

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The top wire (Solid Blue) is the alternator warning light wire and not sure if I'll connect to the LS alt. terminal as LS1tech describes using a 470 ohm 1/2watt resistor to a switched 12v (+) when using the F-body harness and a truck alternator which I have.

Ign 12V (+) is the Black yellow wire and the starter solenoid is the large dia. Yellow wire

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Old 11-14-2013, 09:28 PM
  #145  
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Ok back on track after a slight hiccup and helping with Dinsdale's mad projects. I got the design and programming down so I can adjust these 7075 billet strut braces on the fly so the trap angles match the hoodline and are staggered for extra strength. My cable throttlebody clears without cutouts, but the DBW TB's will need some clearancing,so a change up is easily achieved. Ill get with a local 928 owner and see what needs to be done to fit one around the 928 engine....

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Old 11-15-2013, 10:57 AM
  #146  
xschop
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What do you guys use to replace the Blue-braided clutch MC feed hose? It fits the Wilwood clutch MC, but is heat hardened.

Also what is the lightest battery that fits the factory location?
Old 11-15-2013, 11:00 AM
  #147  
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why not just get new blue hose>?

the lithium batteries are kind of neat, i wonder if one would fit?
Old 11-15-2013, 11:17 AM
  #148  
xschop
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Preferably non-Porsche. I may just find a correct size fuel line.
Old 11-15-2013, 11:36 AM
  #149  
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gonna be a fantastic way to go a few hundred k miles with far fewer issues.


Rob,

please pardon the interruption

Karen England is posting her avatar pics...


All,

(subscribe or ban)

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ok,

carry on and good luck with your pushrod V8 Shark.
Old 11-15-2013, 07:16 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by xschop
What do you guys use to replace the Blue-braided clutch MC feed hose? It fits the Wilwood clutch MC, but is heat hardened.

Also what is the lightest battery that fits the factory location?
I just went to NAPA and bought transmission oil cooler hose. After 6 months no issues, plus you are able to get it on that stupid plastic fitting. I believe I used 3/8 hose , but would need to check.


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