Joe F

I too had to look that up.

"A frangible coupling for interconnecting parts comprising a first ring and a second ring coaxially arranged relative to each other and axially joined via an annular array of fuse ligaments equidistantly spaced apart from each other. The ligaments are configured to fail when an abnormal radial load of a predetermined value causes the first and second ring to move out of their coaxial relationship. When all of the fuse ligaments are severed, the communication between the first and second rings is severed. This allows the first ring to move independently of the second ring, preventing the out of balance load on the first ring being communicated to the second ring."

So, as I mix the first very dry martini of the evening, I say to you................Play on!

G8RB8

What fourth grader conjugated the sentence containing "ligaments equidistantly spaced apart from each other"?

PorKen

Man, I remember when this job used to s*ck.

Bumpstick (32V'r) makes short work of stringing the belt, wouldn't cha know.

F451

Oooh, I see what you did with the clamps there. I like that (filed away in the noggin' for when I get to this myself one of these days).

G8RB8

It almost Rube Goldberg isn't it?

Stromius

Bumpstick rules!

Ken are you leaving the pulley post?

fraggle

Those spring clamps are a lifesaver, I started doing that a couple years ago. Somehow I still manage to have to restring the belt twice every time, though. It's always one tooth off the first time, no matter how careful I think I am.

PorKen

The light at the end of the tunnel is fading.

I decided to beat flat the screwdriver-adjusted-cam-timing damaged hall ring. Good thing.

I wondered what the 'shhhhhhhhhh...' noise that I couldn't pin down was. (Figured it was airpump.)

The lower right pic shows a piece of magnet holding a chunk of steel bracket to the ring.


Anyone have a used hall plate/rotor ring, 928 105 460 01, handy?

How the heck do you change that sensor? Remove the airpump?

Hilton

Wow...

The sensor unscrews from the rear (4mm hex key IIRC? twice) - just be careful not to strip out the socket-headed bolts, as they're in an awkward as hell place. Access to the sensor bolts requires removal of the engine lifting bracket (a single M8 bolt at the base of the bracket you can reach from underneath the car).

I can't remember whether you need to remove the air pump - you can definitely reach the screws from above with the lift bracket removed, I'm just not sure whether you can get a socket to the M8 bolt to take the bracket off with the airpump there (I do have a working airpump on one of my S4's - but I'm pretty sure I put the rebuilt airpump back on after I'd done the hall sensor).

PorKen

Found a good pic, courtesy Rob:

Hilton

To undo those little screws I cut up a spare 4mm allen ball-ended key to make a straight 6-inch length, and used a 4mm socket on the end.

jcorenman

Yes, it's a great pic-- good lighting, good exposure, well composed and the contrast looks just right. The only minor distraction is the glare off of his freshly-plated lifting eye.

The big problem, however, is what is not shown: the car that is in the way.

Hilton is correct, if you remove the lifting eye and disconnect/move the engine harness then it can be removed from the backside. I think you can also unbolt the rear belt-cover (with the sprocket and spider removed) and get to it from the front.

I believe that Rob's picture shows the shorter-pigtail (and less expensive) 944 part, the original arrangement has the hall-sensor pigtail looping around to the top and the harness plugging in from below. Most engine harnesses no longer wish to make that u-turn to plug in from the top.

rgs944

How many miles on those cam gears. They don't look bad.

PorKen

Thanks for the tips, Hilton.


One good(?) thing to report about the Racing belt.

I reinstalled the cam gears minus the hall rotor, in case I will just button it back up so I can drive it.
After spinning the engine with the starter etc., I checked and set the cam timing on both sides.

On a whim, I checked the timing again at #6...it did not change!
With a 'normal' belt, there is a ~2° difference between #1 and #6, because of valve spring tension stretching the belt.
The racing belt does not stretch (significantly)!


I reckon the Racing belt can only be used with a PKT...

The stock timing belt management system uses a de-tensioner, but it also requires pre-stretching the belt by a certain amount (tension) keep the belt on the gears from cold to hot.

PorKen

The 5-8 side has been replaced with a new 01 gear. Not sure when.

The 1-4 and oil pump gears are just starting to wear through the annodizing in places.

43K miles on the odometer?