Official #30 Revival / Rescue Thread
#122
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If she still runs crappy after the injectors, I guess I'll pull the FD and go through it....that's all that's left. I'm just so stoked that she even runs at all!
Another thing I noticed...when I got it, the clutch pedal was on the floor. I poured brake fluid into the reservoir, pumped it a couple times, and it popped back up, seemed to be ok....then the fluid started leaking from the master onto the drivers floorboard. I ordered a new master, a new slave, and a new blue hose...then had to put her away while I tried to move...well, when I started futzing with her this weekend, I noticed the clutch pedal was still up....I pumped it, and got plenty of resistance, felt fine...weird, I thought it had all leaked out....the reservoir is about 1/4 full, I guess that might explain the red dash light...but, the clutch works...don't know how well yet, but I was able to depress while idling, and move her through a couple gears....possible that the seal dried up from sitting so long, and I have gotten it to swell and reseal? I am going to replace the guts anyway, just thought that was interesting....
Another thing I noticed...when I got it, the clutch pedal was on the floor. I poured brake fluid into the reservoir, pumped it a couple times, and it popped back up, seemed to be ok....then the fluid started leaking from the master onto the drivers floorboard. I ordered a new master, a new slave, and a new blue hose...then had to put her away while I tried to move...well, when I started futzing with her this weekend, I noticed the clutch pedal was still up....I pumped it, and got plenty of resistance, felt fine...weird, I thought it had all leaked out....the reservoir is about 1/4 full, I guess that might explain the red dash light...but, the clutch works...don't know how well yet, but I was able to depress while idling, and move her through a couple gears....possible that the seal dried up from sitting so long, and I have gotten it to swell and reseal? I am going to replace the guts anyway, just thought that was interesting....
#123
Burning Brakes
Try replacing just the inside guts of the clutch master from inside the car, its about a 4 hour job to replace the whole master. There is a trick to bleading the clutch, use a piece of tubing on the right front caliper bleeder to the slave cyl bleader, Then you can reverse bleed the clutch by pumping the brakes. The light on the dash will flash if the brake fluid, oil preasure or oil is low if the light is solid its a less important alert.
#125
Burning Brakes
Pull off your coil and plug wires one at a time and make sure there is no corrosion on the plug ends also check the 14 pin connector at the jump post for looseness and corrosion.
#126
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Exactly what I planned to do with clutch master, thanks...bought 2masters, just in case I screw one up....I need to Replace some brake lines as well, thanks for the bleeding tip...
I checked the plug wire ends...all looked ok...thought about doing what you guys are saying, pulling one wire at a time and see what happens....also ran it in the dark and saw no fireflies
The 14 pin has been completely cleaned, scrubbed, filed, etc. Cap and rotor has been checked and cleaned..
...thanks for all the tips...keep em coming!!!
I checked the plug wire ends...all looked ok...thought about doing what you guys are saying, pulling one wire at a time and see what happens....also ran it in the dark and saw no fireflies
The 14 pin has been completely cleaned, scrubbed, filed, etc. Cap and rotor has been checked and cleaned..
...thanks for all the tips...keep em coming!!!
Last edited by AirtekHVAC; 02-18-2013 at 10:24 AM.
#127
Rennlist Member
Exactly what I planned to do with clutch master, thanks...bought 2masters, just in case I screw one up....I need to Replace some brake lines as well, thanks for the bleeding tip...
I checked the plug wire ends...all looked ok...thought about doing what you guys are saying, pulling one wire at a time and see what happens....also ran it in the dark and saw no fireflies...thanks for all the tips...keep em coming!!!
I checked the plug wire ends...all looked ok...thought about doing what you guys are saying, pulling one wire at a time and see what happens....also ran it in the dark and saw no fireflies...thanks for all the tips...keep em coming!!!
Its the crimp at the end of the wire that fail. You can tell by gently, slightly pulling on the wire end. If it gives (pulls away) easily, the wire end inside the crimp has failed.
Is it running on all 8? Does it rev freely or is it labored? Idle set is 800(IIRC), is the idle labored?
#128
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'll check the wire ends tonight...
I don't think I am hitting on all 8 consistently...it will run very smooth for a few seconds, and then miss...rev is very labored, idle app 750, not labored, but hunting up and down ever so slightly, and of course a frequent miss....it ran and revved great after I removed the FD strainers, as the videos show, but still was missing, as also shows in video....after about an hour it started running poorly again, now, she starts great, idles roughly for about 5-7 min, then idles ok, with a miss...when I give throttle, she stays running, but "bogs down", if I let off rapidly, I get a backfire through the air plate...also I smell raw burning fuel odor, like running very rich.....I am thinking that whatever was gumming the fuel distibutor probably moved to the injectors perhaps, which already seemed gummy, and now I have fuel dripping or running out rather than spraying? A guess perhaps
I also checked the cap and rotor, which seem to be in very good nick...
BTW Jim, I like your company logo!
I don't think I am hitting on all 8 consistently...it will run very smooth for a few seconds, and then miss...rev is very labored, idle app 750, not labored, but hunting up and down ever so slightly, and of course a frequent miss....it ran and revved great after I removed the FD strainers, as the videos show, but still was missing, as also shows in video....after about an hour it started running poorly again, now, she starts great, idles roughly for about 5-7 min, then idles ok, with a miss...when I give throttle, she stays running, but "bogs down", if I let off rapidly, I get a backfire through the air plate...also I smell raw burning fuel odor, like running very rich.....I am thinking that whatever was gumming the fuel distibutor probably moved to the injectors perhaps, which already seemed gummy, and now I have fuel dripping or running out rather than spraying? A guess perhaps
I also checked the cap and rotor, which seem to be in very good nick...
BTW Jim, I like your company logo!
#129
Rennlist Member
^^^
I had a similar situation/symtoms with #6.
https://rennlist.com/forums/9935002-post446.html
I wish I would've taken pics of the wire ends. What happens is the wire end corrodes inside the crimp, and severs connection. Looks just fine until you take off the crimp and find the wire has disintegrated.
PS. Thanks!
I had a similar situation/symtoms with #6.
https://rennlist.com/forums/9935002-post446.html
I wish I would've taken pics of the wire ends. What happens is the wire end corrodes inside the crimp, and severs connection. Looks just fine until you take off the crimp and find the wire has disintegrated.
PS. Thanks!
#130
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
When you say crimp...where are you talking about...seems that the plug boots are a 90 that screws onto the wire....do you mean at the distributor cap, where the small boot covers are..if so, gotcha! if not...don't gotcha!...
#131
Rennlist Member
What I have seen is this: