Harvey Yancey

No clear coat needed ... think 928 'Rat Rod' ...

http://fleshandchrome.files.wordpres...rat-rod-06.jpg

AirtekHVAC

Well, it certainly looks like that now....

The Fixer

Ron get excited about #30 being painted beautifully.

if you strip the car to bare metal, (hire a soda blaster pro, done in 1 day: $750)

Then remove the fenders and doors and bumper covers/ interior panels (another 3 days) trailer it to painter ready for primer, it can be painted perfectly on a budget and restored fast.

You should be able to find someone good to paint the parts and body for $1000.

Then you can have the pleasure of putting it all back together which is so satisfying

-Matt

AirtekHVAC

I have a buddy with a paint booth....I am sure he will cut me a good deal when I'm ready.....probably another year.....who knows tho' I may fall into a bucket of cash......

Gotta get a windshield.....question.....as a minimum, when I remove the glass, how should I prep / de-rust the area around the windshield and rear quarters, so I can reinstall them now, and not have to remove them again when I paint the car ? It may be 2 years before I can paint....I was thinking sanding, primer, and then some sort of flat silverish...just to protect...I dunno....but regardless, I will be getting a windshield in way before paint.....

AirtekHVAC

Well, I got the M-F'n ^€>%*¥+£€?<#}{ clutch master out today. What a bitch. I had to cut the rubber hose, and also noticed that the PO had twisted the steel line going into the slave, which sheared right off as soon as I tried to loosen it....dammit!

I cut a bit off the steel line, and I think I have the correct flaring tool, so I might be ok....if its too short, I might have to braze an extension, on it....OR....buy a new line to replace it.

Going to put in the new master, blue hose, braided line from master, and hopefully, the repaired line from the braided to the slave. I'll update and post pics tonight.....sheesh....

The Fixer

I did a new windshield last year as you know and found a NOS from 1979 w/ slight green tint on ebay for 200 bucks. But enough about me.

Rust prep:
The best way to prep (where rusty and pitted, is by sand or glass bead blasting. If you just sand you won't get all the rust out of the pitted areas. The best hand held sand blaster (it actually works) is this type which is gravity fed, small syphon types are expensive and don't work well:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-Blast-...ebdef0&vxp=mtr
You can try naval jelly after sanding to remove the rust but it doesn't do the job that blasting will.

Paint:
These days on ebay you can buy professional paint in a spray can. You can buy
epoxy primer like i used for 25 bucks. You can also buy urethane topcoat.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eastwood-2K-...b68bd0&vxp=mtr

Now get busy Ron!

Imo000

Up here NAPA sells paint in a can that they mix in the store. Not all stores have them, only the ones that sell paint to the pros. Bring in the paint code and an hour later the spray can is ready. ~@25CDN. I'm sure they offer the same in the States.

AirtekHVAC

Thanks for the info on the paint and primer! I'll check NAPA....

Hit a wall with the clutch hydraulics today....the line feeding the slave was twisted by the PO and snapped off in my hand. I reflared it, but now it is bent wrong, and I have to redo the bends....sheet...

Oh Matt...found new green and bronze tint on eBay...and they have a hub near me so I can pick up, but 250$$$

Still waiting on the bucket of money to fall out of the sky!,,,,

Ad0911

The blaster is nice! I think it will be a nice tool for soda blasting too! Soda blasting is not for derusting but really good for cleaning aluminium parts to keep the original finish

The Fixer

Ron, forget Napa and use the Eastwood epoxy, the topcoat does not matter in the quarter window channel. Those windows will be removed for paint when you have it done anyway. Just use whatever you want for that so long as it is blasted and primed with epoxy primer. Go with the Eastwood product.

BTW, what tint would #30 have had? Jim Doerr would probably know, PM him.

Yes, i was surprised how well this gravity type worked. It will work with soda but you must run very dry air through so use a water separator like used for painting. Sharpe makes good ones for about $80 that i have used for years.

AirtekHVAC

A few shots of my clutch master job....

The Fixer

Ron, what type of explosive did you use to remove the cylinder?
Man that looks like it was a tough one.

AirtekHVAC

A few drops of nitro on the bolt heads was all it took....

Man it was a pure bitch....now I got the bleeder issue to deal with....one step forward, two steps back...

Courtshark

Who's the master now, beeeeotch! Nicely done. You will never forget that job.

The Fixer

#30 is testing you.

LOL