Ducman82

^^^^ what he said!

BC

There is a bell curve, somewhere, with HP and Tq referenced to displacement and emissions and dates.

What it shows is a massive increase in power per liter when cars started using computers to control the combustion parameters more and more - and stopped using little rubber bands to control two huge distribuitor rotors.

I remember these. Imagine how much actual spark moves around with that belt stretching, etc. I understand the LH is still controlling firing, but....

AO

I'm 100% certain. I put a small hole in the cover to be able to see the timing belt cam gear. I could see my little red paint mark. SO yes. Even if it wasn't it should stay in sync - and it's not.

Forgot about that thing. Good call. I'll give that a shot tonight. I will get it welded.

Talk to me... I'm interested.

What all is involved?

I don't think there's much if any appreciable stretching there, but I am interested in this. Can you point me somewhere to look at MS? WHat do I do for the harness?

Ducman82

http://www.diyautotune.com is where you get the computer and harness.

here is a link to the wiring diagram. its really not to hard. just need to draw it out. colin has done LOTS of installs.
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/hardware.html#wiring

BC

Then after that is done, Andrew, you can come to the dark side like Todd (ethanol). Turn up the boost, the only thing limiting you is your imagination.

Ducman is right - DIYautotune all the way for MS.

I am doing a loom myself right now - at the excel sheet pinout stages still, but soon to the stringing stage.

BC

You don't have to change the rest of the wiring in the car, and you can use what is already there for fuel pump triggering, and start/stop on the ignition key.

You ceremoniously rip out all that LH crap and go modern. Make it even easier and just start with batch fire injectors (but wire them for sequential) and EDIS (FORD) for ignition. LS2 Truck coils are the best for this.

Lizard928

Standalone is the way to go.

I prefer VEMS (VEMS.hu) but ms works ok too.

You're looking at around $1200 in parts, then it's the labour of putting it together.

AO

I couldn't fine my boroscope, but here's a shot of the drive gear on the cam from my phone. I can clearly see damage on this gear. I was dressed for work, so I really couldn't get into it much. I will try rotating the engine a bit and take more pics tonight. I suspect there is one tooth that is worse than this.

Ducman82

maybe when it popped up it only chipped that one tooth. does not look to bad so far.

AO

The plot thickens in a bad way...

I have no idea what happened here, but needless the say, the cam gear and the cam are toast. ****...

Lizard928

oh *****!!!!!

Ducman82

Holy FUUUU...... THAT is not good... :-(

U-928

32V cam gears on 16V? I was just made aware from Mark Anderson that when doing the swap you may need to change out to different keyways. Had you done this? Maybe explains why the cam and gear went to lunch?

AO

The only thing I can think of is that when the distributor belt broke, the distributor sent spark to a couple pistons at the wrong time trying to reverse things. Is that even plausible?

I think at this point, my best bet is to re-pull the motor make sure the valves are okay, and slap the US cam towers that came with the replacement motor on here.

Needless to say, there will be no driving of the car this summer... ***** is right! Anyone have a match?

AO

No... the cam gears and cams were a matched set. Only the short block was changed. It's still a 16v engine.