Bill Ball

I wouldn't expect this level of corrosion on a California car. I hear you, Brendan, but my pins have always come out easily and clean and I haven't been motivated to grease them. A little bit of stiction helps me to break both nuts free more easily with my rattle gun, and that spins the pin, after which I can tap it out with a light mallet. Ah, I see Mark's comment that maybe this indicates a bent pin, something I've managed to avoid. What would bend the pin? Pothole? Accident?

jcorenman

Fifteen replies and no one has nominated this for the "Most Useless Thread Title of the Year" award?

Mark Anderson

My guess is smacking a curb or some similar force.

destructo_low

Use a sawzall. The blade slips in between the carrier and a arm nicely.

Ad0911

Well, I spent certainly this amount of time on my rear rightwheel shock. Eventually, the hacksaw and some elbow grease did the job. I had to cut it fore and aft the shock. The remaining piece was seized solid. I had to drill it out slowly a bit at a time, avoiding too high temperatures not to burn the rubber. This must have been the toughest job on my 928.

BC

These shocks as I said came from an entire rear end that I just "had laying around" - from a high mile 86.5 that had the shocks replaced recently. So these Koni's are going into an 85 I would like to sell that has leaking shocks. So probably next weekend if time permits.

GregBBRD

I agree. Along with the people that don't put a drop of oil on the crank damper, the cam spiders, the cam gears, the oil pump gear, etc.

Just makes working on these cars that much tougher....

The thing that you have to remember that "factory flat rate" was valid for warranty repairs....which only was for one year. Now that these vehicles are 20 plus years old, those numbers are "base numbers", which are only going to apply if everything goes perfect.

BC

This assembly is from a Georgia car with 225k on it. The car itself was not corroded, nor was the rest of the assembly. And it had been out for these shocks. Its just some idiot mechanic (or non-mechanic) not following simply procedures. I have taken out and put back more than a dozen sets of shocks, and I always put some smear on there (copper or nickel-silver)

BC

I have a great Milwaukee large wheel grinder, so I went to HD and bought a cut off wheel. That worked except for one angle, and I just smacked it with a chisel until that little part broke. One side pulled out fine, and the rest had to be cut again - the front (I think its the front) bushing of that arm is what seized to the shaft.

BC

I was mumbling to myself as I sweat through my third t-shirt outside in the beautiful but a bit warm San Diego weather; the mumbling was about a simple job taking four times as long usually because of ONE thing or maybe two. Some bolt not moving or some other similar thing. Its part of the territory, I know. My frustration is that it doesn't have to. Anyone that goes back into a car I have worked on (for instance - leeroy has bilsteins - I put them on - take those off and all bolts with have anti-seize) will not be swearing at "the idiot that was in here before".

I used to take these cars apart because I wanted to change them. Now I do that but also because I know I may as well now since its easier to just start from scratch on every system. The problems always come from doing something but not touching the surrounding.

Ad0911

F. FIsn't this why we all have such warm feelings for the unknown previous owner?

dr bob

A recent rear shock replace guest car project included the SawzAll, the disc cutter, and the mallette. Shocks had been installed with the bottom angle facing the wrong way. Both of them. The rear end of the pins was mushroomed from the installer beating on them trying to get them into the bushings crooked. One of the cone washers was damaged during that last install too. We knew about everything except the damaged cone washer. Fortunately, Mark at 928 International was able to supply replacements for all the damaged parts.

It would have been so much easier if the last guy who worked on that car had opened his eyes at some point, at least enough to see that there was no way the bottom shock eye was going to work that way. I think that some truly folks believe that a 5-pound sledge was used to put the car together originally. Ours tapped together nicely with the 12oz plastic-face mallette, with the parts from Mark and a thin coating of anti-seize for good measure..

17prospective buyer

Don't feel bad; I just broke the head off one of the pan-head screws attaching the water bridge to block. This after welding an M12 19MM nut to the top of it. The weld was not the weak point and it just broke off in the block.