928mac

What I mean is that maybe the intake has had a lot of nice clean oil pass through it like happens when the valve covers fill with oil. The washed comment refers to the fact that if it is a line connected wrong or if for some strange reason the 4L that it uses in 3 hours is passing through the intake, it should appear very clean as if it has been washed. Thats all

hacker-pschorr

I'm sure it was pinging, but you can grenade a motor from detonation with perfect air / fuel. It isn't always "running lean" that causes the problem.

No such thing as "not much" detonation. You just get away with less for a bit longer.

It's like the expression "Just a little pregnant"

Has nothing to do with "weak" rings. Yes some are weaker than others, this only means you prolong the inevitable.

I've seen very high quality forged rods / pistons destroyed in engines with zero boost.

928mac

Hacker, I am just trying to figure out how bad it is because it is a good price if it is not to badly damaged and from what I have read it is still speculation as Mike S suggested to the owner that maybe a ring broke.
It would be nice to Know for sure why it was drinking oil so that a realistic price could be put on the car.
What if it is a easy repair and someone gets it for a steel, that would not be fair to the owner either.

Also its in a price range I can afford

Fabio421

According to Stephen, Dave Roberts had agreed to fix it and return it back to stock in exchange for the blower system. Dave knows this car and this twin screw system better than anyone else. If it were an easy fix I'm sure it would have been done by now.

Something to think about. The most expensive things to fix on a 928 are paint and interior. This car is said to be pristine in those aspects. 16v engines are relatively cheap in comparrison. For someone mechanicaly inclined that is looking for a car, this is a great opportunity to buy a car with near perfect paint and interior that just needs an engine.

Why this car wasn't tuned properly is a mystery to me. What person in their right mind says "just tune for 4000 rpm and above. We'll set the idle at 4 grand and it will be fine"? Thats just silly. I cannot see this happening. I know Ed and he's a very smart guy. He's a Dr. for Christ sakes. He didn't get there by making poor decisions. I can also not imagine him selling a car with known major issues and not disclosing it to the buyer. Things just aren't adding up here.

DougM

Wish I was up for an engine out project this winter. Seriously. The motor needs to come out anyway. If it is bad, just pick up another Euro 84-85 car for a couple grand and use the motor from it as a base. Everything else that is needed to have a running S/C car is there.
http://columbusga.craigslist.org/cto/3178869772.html
Most of these lower priced cars are cheap because of tatty interiors or bad running due to poor maintenance. The motors are usually pretty solid. They just need some freshening, nothing internal. Pick the car up for the engine. Sell off the desirable Euro S parts as well as extra good stuff and the spare motor is almost free. The car listed above even has a new dash.

Drewster67

After further researching this car, I have decided to not pursue it.

Good Luck Stpehen with your sale.

I am still selling my GT if anyone is interested

Thanks

DR

Just for clarity sake, the car did not EVER have the idle set at 4000 rpm, it idled fine at stock setting. Me thinks some people need to slow down and stop "speed reading" posts/threads a little more :-). During the multiple times Ed increased the boost from 5psi (as it was sold to him) to 7-8psi, then to approx 9-10psi it was never optimized below 4000 rpms as per his instructions. It was however "drive-able" below 4000 when I saw it back in Feb of 2011, but far from perfect or "right". Please refer to this post... https://rennlist.com/forums/9142535-post22.html from this thread ..https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rew-ideas.html

As I hinted to in that post, the basic problem all the way around was too many "hands" messing with the Fuel Pressure. It seems every time a pulley change happened, the Fuel pressure was adjusted "for safety" or until I could come down and "re-tune" to the new boost specs again...this happened at least 2-3 times that I know of, but obviously even more since I last saw it. Through all of these changes and with each FP change the "non-WOT" tune degraded and degraded, yet I wasn't given the opportunity to fix this. When I got the car back up here in February 2012(a full year after I last saw it) the FP gauge was pegged..to the point it took many many rotations of the adjuster to get it off the peg of the FP gauge. There was also a lot of confusion as to which Tune version was in the computers.

The first thing I did was get the FP back to a normal range which has improved the idle and lower RPMs dramatically(along with fresh plugs)...but the damage has already been done.

Also, concerning the mention of "oil in the intake", sorry not possible. All of the coking shown on the plugs and obviously inside the combustion chambers came from somewhere besides "oil in the intake tract".

In a nutshell, and even though it is not my place to say...IMHO anyone that thinks they can buy this car, and NOT refresh or replace this engine and then not pay, or have the real knowledge, to get it tuned properly(and then leave it alone, hint, hint :-),... needs to walk away, it is NOT the car for you.

For anyone that is serious about getting this car and fixing it RIGHT..I am all too happy to help or assist in any way I can.

Also with Stephen's prior permission, anyone is more than welcome to make an appointment to come and inspect/test the car in person themselves here ...and the first drink(after testing) is on me.

Drewster67

Thanks for posting that information David. Much appreciated.

928mac

Thank you Dave, That answers most of my questions.

ChristianR

please email a price you think it would take to make this car "right", thanks

Fabio421

This is a couple of questions for Dave Roberts and/or Dr. Ed Meir. Did this car ever run boosted without crankcase evac issues? Did it ever run without expelling oil into the Provent or into the engine bay? Did this car ever have the tuning finished? Did it ever run properly throughout the RPM /boost range? Thanks.

SeanR

When I saw the car at the Texas Mile, the car seemed to run flawlessly from idle to red. But that wasn't with me in it, just observations as it was being prepped for a run and seeing it run.

There was a bit of oil blow by after the run but not enough that I'd worry about, hell, I was blowing more oil out by dipstick last week than I saw after a mile run on this car.

AO

Tender offer made...

MGW-Fla

You Go Andrew!

andy-gts

If anyone could bring this beast back it is ANdrew....you go man!!!