caliper bracket rubbing (solved)
#1
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Thread Starter
caliper bracket rubbing (solved)
My front brakes are back together, just waiting for retaining springs.
But I have ran into a problem, on the passenger side the caliper bracket is up against the inside of the rotor, and the rotor does not turn. I found out after I put the calipers on tried to spin the rotor.
Could it be that I have just mixed up the left and right side brackets?
Tonight I will take them off for a closer inspection.
But I have ran into a problem, on the passenger side the caliper bracket is up against the inside of the rotor, and the rotor does not turn. I found out after I put the calipers on tried to spin the rotor.
Could it be that I have just mixed up the left and right side brackets?
Tonight I will take them off for a closer inspection.
Last edited by Adamant1971; 06-02-2012 at 09:25 PM.
#2
Something may not be seated properly. Do you has a farther away picture?
#3
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Thread Starter
The bracket is bolted tight to the hub and rotor is seated well? I will take more pics tonight when I take it apart.
#4
Rennlist Member
Take the caliper off and check the installed rotor for runout first. Be sure the rotor is free of runout before you bolt the caliper on.
If you still have a problem then you need to look closely at the caliper assembly.
If you still have a problem then you need to look closely at the caliper assembly.
#5
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the tip Dave, im going to pick up a dial tomorrow and I will check the runout first before I do anything else.
#7
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Yes S brakes. After a quick look again I have noticed that the rotor is not on the hub straight. I'm going to take it off tonight to see why it is not sitting flush on the hub. Hopefully it's just being stubborn or there is something stuck between the two surfaces.
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#8
When you put the wheel on it may make it go on straight.
#9
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I actually tried bolting it up using the rear spacer and some open lugs and it would not go. Seriously hoping something is jammed between. Anyways getting the kids to bed, heading to the garage soon!
#10
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It's all good, there was a little chunk of metal/rust stuck on the hub. Removed it and she slid on right in place this time.
So my brakes are done, just need this retaining clips from Roger.
I was going to paint the calipers and bracket but decided not too. I figure I will do a big brake upgrade in a year or so. Plus I did not feel like taking the back calipers off to match them.
Important thing is my brakes are now up to par.
So my brakes are done, just need this retaining clips from Roger.
I was going to paint the calipers and bracket but decided not too. I figure I will do a big brake upgrade in a year or so. Plus I did not feel like taking the back calipers off to match them.
Important thing is my brakes are now up to par.
#11
Rennlist Member
Good result ... I figured something like that may have been causing runout.
I usually clean both faces with solvent before putting the rotor on, make sure it's seated with a rubber mallet, install the screws, whack the hat near each stud with a rubber mallet again, check the screws are still tight ... and then give them a spin to check for runout before installing the caliper. You can use a dial indicator, but it's usually visibly obvious if there's a problem when you spin them.
BTW .. when painting rotor hats you need to make sure you avoid paint on those hub and wheel contact faces, as it can cause runout if the thickness varies, but worst of all it softens with heat and becomes a lubricant, and diminishes in thickness, causing loss of wheel nut tension. I've seen wheels come off race cars, after a couple of severe brake applications, for that very reason. With road cars (with less severe heat cycles) you can get away with a thin coat, if you make sure you re-torque your wheel nuts a few times after installation, but paint is really still best avoided on bearing surfaces.
I usually clean both faces with solvent before putting the rotor on, make sure it's seated with a rubber mallet, install the screws, whack the hat near each stud with a rubber mallet again, check the screws are still tight ... and then give them a spin to check for runout before installing the caliper. You can use a dial indicator, but it's usually visibly obvious if there's a problem when you spin them.
BTW .. when painting rotor hats you need to make sure you avoid paint on those hub and wheel contact faces, as it can cause runout if the thickness varies, but worst of all it softens with heat and becomes a lubricant, and diminishes in thickness, causing loss of wheel nut tension. I've seen wheels come off race cars, after a couple of severe brake applications, for that very reason. With road cars (with less severe heat cycles) you can get away with a thin coat, if you make sure you re-torque your wheel nuts a few times after installation, but paint is really still best avoided on bearing surfaces.
#12
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Thread Starter
Good point, I only painted the outer rotor Hat, and just so it doesn't start to look rusty.
#13
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Make sure you re-torque the wheel nuts after your first run with the fresh paint on the hats, because that paint layer does the same thing, as it's subject to the same heat. When you next take the wheels off you'll see the paint will be mostly gone in the pattern where the wheel contacts it.
#15
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I noticed that as well, but the rotors do have the correct part numbers.
The direction of the slots flips from the inside to the outside as well. So the outside of the right rotors is with and the left outside is against.
Either that's how the Zimmerman rotors are or there is a major error going on at the plant. Maybe Roger will chime in, I got them from him.
Edit: sorry maybe you where asking about the internal veins not the slots. They are in the direction of travel on both sides, not against.
The direction of the slots flips from the inside to the outside as well. So the outside of the right rotors is with and the left outside is against.
Either that's how the Zimmerman rotors are or there is a major error going on at the plant. Maybe Roger will chime in, I got them from him.
Edit: sorry maybe you where asking about the internal veins not the slots. They are in the direction of travel on both sides, not against.