A few keyless entry and remote start questions
#31
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Does anyone have a picture of the under console alarm module? Rob Edwards . . . calling Dr. Edwards.
#32
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Both the central lock and alarm unit are in the same area, rather buried behind the radio. You can use the central lock unit as an alternative. Sorry, no pics. What I did was untape a portion of the small harnesses that came out of that area and run down the passenger side of the console into a larger harness and did some testing on correctly colored wires until I found the lock and unlock wires and then tapped into them there. That was easier for me than getting to the modules.
#33
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Hi Jeff-
I guess what I PM'ed you is just the horn part of the alarm? I dunno. When I pull the HVAC box out of Dan's car I'll find the elusive alarm module and document it.
So Bill, is the module in this pic just the alarm horn? This is on a '91. So there are separate alarm and central locking modules, buried under/anterior to the HVAC box?
I guess what I PM'ed you is just the horn part of the alarm? I dunno. When I pull the HVAC box out of Dan's car I'll find the elusive alarm module and document it.
So Bill, is the module in this pic just the alarm horn? This is on a '91. So there are separate alarm and central locking modules, buried under/anterior to the HVAC box?
#34
Drifting
The '90 is different than '91+ cars which have the later alarm controller. So Rob's photo only shows the Seat Belt Relay (928.618.102.03) in that location.
On '90 only, under the center console, you'll also find the Additional Control Unit Alarm System (929.637.160.00), and the Control Unit Central Locks. These two relays were integrated into the Alarm Controller for later cars.
If you look at Bill's link for '90 keyless install, I later updated that thread for the keyless install on my '90 S4. I provided details the optimum connection points.
On '90 only, under the center console, you'll also find the Additional Control Unit Alarm System (929.637.160.00), and the Control Unit Central Locks. These two relays were integrated into the Alarm Controller for later cars.
If you look at Bill's link for '90 keyless install, I later updated that thread for the keyless install on my '90 S4. I provided details the optimum connection points.
#35
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The central lock unit is on the passenger side and the alarm module in the center. You can see the 12 pin plug for the central lock unit in the first pic to the right of the cigar lighter with its harness unwrapped to the right of it. I unwrapped the wire bundle to the plug and tapped into the wires (pin 7, Br/Re for lock; pin 9, Br/Gn for unlock). I even tapped into ground (Br, pin 5) and 12V here (Re/Gn wire to pin 6). Brian's scheme is somewhat different. I did not use diodes in the locations regarding the lock and alarm and can't see any need to. I gather it preserves separate valet key function in certain years, but I don't think I have a valet key. It's a fine mess in my case due to a lot of aftermarket headunit wires, but it works.
You can use what are called Scotch taps. In this case, I didn't. I had permanently soldered and wrapped these connections (not necessarily a good idea, but whatever). When my keyless unit failed I cut the keyless harness wires and used the white screw-on connectors you see to wire in a new unit. Not recommending - just explaining the mess. Alan will probably croak if he sees this. Anyway, my basic point is I found the harness for the central lock unit and wired into it. That's the keyless module tucked up into the upper right corner of the 3rd shot. This applies to pre-91. In 91 and after, you don't need to go into this area at all, and the wiring is much simpler and neater.
You can use what are called Scotch taps. In this case, I didn't. I had permanently soldered and wrapped these connections (not necessarily a good idea, but whatever). When my keyless unit failed I cut the keyless harness wires and used the white screw-on connectors you see to wire in a new unit. Not recommending - just explaining the mess. Alan will probably croak if he sees this. Anyway, my basic point is I found the harness for the central lock unit and wired into it. That's the keyless module tucked up into the upper right corner of the 3rd shot. This applies to pre-91. In 91 and after, you don't need to go into this area at all, and the wiring is much simpler and neater.
#36
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#37
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OK. Phase 1 is done. Keyless entry system installed and working for lock, unlock (arm/disarm), and hatch release.
Rather than hacking into the alarm controller harness I elected to hack into the alarm controller itself. This allowed me to co-opt the existing turn signal flash relay and saved adding a new relay and/or blocking rectifiers.
Bascially, I added a 4-pin harness to the alarm controller to bring out the confirmation flash signal, the hatch unlock signal, and the prime/unprime (arm/disarm - lock/unlock) signals. The rest of the install tapped into points in the CE, except for the door switch, which I tapped into next to the PS door, above the LH. I had to add one DP relay to apply power and ground for the hatch release.
The one thing I forgot when modifying the alarm controller, and had to add on the keyless harness later, was a blocking diode so that the key pulling the hatch unlock signal low will not trigger the hatch release relay.
Of course, now I get to see how unreliable my hatch release is, so next step is to see what needs to be adjusted or replaced back in the receiver to get things back to original behavior. Any suggestions there?
By the way, the first picture here shows the lacquered wire I brought through from the pin on the relay that flashes the turn signal lights. Pulling this pin low activates the relay.
Second note is that the black connector is marked for pin numbers, but the yellow one is not. Convention is that the location of pin 1 is the same for all connectors and components on a board. At least, that's US convention. The German company that made the alarm controller apparently didn't subscribe to that convention. If you were looking at the connector end of the board, with the components up, as in the second picture, pin 1 on the black connector is lower left, but pin 1 on the yellow connector is upper right.
Rather than hacking into the alarm controller harness I elected to hack into the alarm controller itself. This allowed me to co-opt the existing turn signal flash relay and saved adding a new relay and/or blocking rectifiers.
Bascially, I added a 4-pin harness to the alarm controller to bring out the confirmation flash signal, the hatch unlock signal, and the prime/unprime (arm/disarm - lock/unlock) signals. The rest of the install tapped into points in the CE, except for the door switch, which I tapped into next to the PS door, above the LH. I had to add one DP relay to apply power and ground for the hatch release.
The one thing I forgot when modifying the alarm controller, and had to add on the keyless harness later, was a blocking diode so that the key pulling the hatch unlock signal low will not trigger the hatch release relay.
Of course, now I get to see how unreliable my hatch release is, so next step is to see what needs to be adjusted or replaced back in the receiver to get things back to original behavior. Any suggestions there?
By the way, the first picture here shows the lacquered wire I brought through from the pin on the relay that flashes the turn signal lights. Pulling this pin low activates the relay.
Second note is that the black connector is marked for pin numbers, but the yellow one is not. Convention is that the location of pin 1 is the same for all connectors and components on a board. At least, that's US convention. The German company that made the alarm controller apparently didn't subscribe to that convention. If you were looking at the connector end of the board, with the components up, as in the second picture, pin 1 on the black connector is lower left, but pin 1 on the yellow connector is upper right.
#39
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In reference to "Celina": And yet, no Porsche directions. I will give you one more chance to post something unrelated to advertising, lest you will be banned from this forum. Meanwhile, as this fob website has nothing for a Porsche owner, your post will be edited by me.