SQLGuy

Hi folks,

I'm getting ready to install a keyless entry system in my GTS. I bought an Avital 4103 because it had a decent amount of flexibility which would also allow it to do hatch release and "comfort close" (where it automatically closes windows and sunroof when locking.)

Besides these features, it also supports remote start. On the one hand, I don't think I need remote start, and I was really looking only for keyless entry; but on the other hand, I'd be annoyed to have that extra button on the fob not hooked up. For the most part, setting up remote start seems pretty straightforward, but I'm a bit concerned that 928's don't have a neutral switch (5-speed), so I would have to defeat that one safety of the remote start system. Anyway, have any of you installed remote start on a 5-speed? If so, what did you think? Worthwhile?

Second question is about the confirmation chirp. It looks like the alarm system has its own horn. In Alan's GTS diagram, he uses this horn for his keyless entry system. I was thinking of driving the twin-tone horn at N15 of the CE. Any reason I shouldn't do this, and should instead add a relay to drive the alarm horn? Which is quieter?

Thanks,
Paul

Stromius

Hi Paul -

I managed to install an Avital 2300 not too long ago. I used 2 relays to manage the hatch release feature (1 eac for +ve/-ve). See Bill and Alan's diagram for the GTS. Horn confirmation is direct, no need for an extra (at least for me); connected the Avital unit directly at H22. I didn't connect the dome assist, siren or remote start (5 speed).

I used the amp/bolster on the passenger side to tuck and hide everything and used the amp leads (amp gone) to power the unit.

https://rennlist.com/forums/6709702-post46.html (note no horn relay needed and I didn't have the factory alarm)

I did use 5A diodes for the side marker signal confirmation
I also used diodes for the door lock/unlock as well..perhaps overkill but can't hurt
A diode in the hatch area is suggested also (again can't hurt) and I pulled a wire from the relay back to the hatch.

SQLGuy

Hi Stefan,

Thanks, but I'm not sure what you mean by "horn confirmation is direct." The 4103 has a 200mA current sink for horn confirmation. This means a relay is needed. Either a new relay, if the GTS's alarm horn is used, or the CE horn relay, if the twin-tone (steering wheel triggered) horn is used.

Had the alarm been removed from your car? I thought it was stock on all S3 and later 928's.

Edit: To clarify on the horns, the GTS wiring diagram shows a directly driven (via a Red/White wire) horn for the alarm, and a pair of relay driven twin-tone horns (via a Black/Yellow wire).

Stromius

Should have been more clear. ...I plugged my Avital right into the horn relay in the CE - -ve 200mA output. It's to H22 in the S4's.

Mine didn't have an alarm (S4 had separate systems as optional I believe) at least when I got it, there wasn't one and no (longer) alarm keys or door locks that connected to any alarm module. I should check that out more probably but always assumed mine never had one.

This early diagram (Alan's I believe) shows 88 S4 connections with alarm module for a Crimestopper unit. Since it's a separate unit, pretty easy to add the diodes and connect directly to the central lock control wires.

https://rennlist.com/forums/2628229-post20.html

I didn't like cutting the existing wires so opted to follow Alan and Bill's suggested two relay setup for the hatch release in their GTS diagrams.


Avital 2300 connections:

H1 harness

H1/1 Orange <ground when armed> - not connected
H1/2 White <light flash output> - selectable (set to +ve) output to S23 & S24 (for S4's at least) with 10A diodes each
H1/3 White/Blue <Ch 3 output ex 551T, 529T or 530T> - not connected
H1/4 Black/White <dome light output> - not connected
H1/5 Green <door trigger> - connect to brown/white door trigger -ve
H1/6 Blue <zone 1 mulitplex trigger ex glass breakage, proximity> - not connected
H1/7 Violet <door trigger +ve> - not connected
H1/8 Black <chassis ground> note: used amp ground (brown)
H1/9 Yellow <ignition input> - connected to Z6
H1/10 Brown <+ve siren output> - not connected
H1/11 Red <constant power> - used amp red which has 15A fuse in CE
H1/12 Red/White <channel 2 hatch release> -ve output using 2 relays per Alan/Bill's diagrams in previous post.

H2 Harness - Type B three wire -ve relay driven

H2/A Black/White <dome light relay> - not connected
H2/B White/Black - not connected
H2/C Green/Black <lock output -ve> - connect to Yellow at central lock control with 5A diode
H2/D Violet/Black<ground> connected to H2/G to chassis ground
H2/E Brown/Black <not used>
H2/F Blue/Black <unlock output -ve> connect to Green/Blue at central lock with 5A diode
H2/G Violet <ground> connected to H2/D, 15A inline fuse, connect to chassis ground

H3 harness

H3/1 Blue <second unlock> - not connected
H3/2 Brown/Black <Brown/Black> - connected to H22 at CE
H3/3 Violet/Black <-ve 200mA output channel 4> - not connected

H4 harness

Black <starer interrupt> - not connected

LED light indicator - installed next to the clock
Valet / Program Switch - installed under pod near reostat

Bill Ball

I would connect the unit's horn output to CE N15 to the twin tone horn relay. I have a newer variation on Alan's scheme attached that involves no wiring to the rear hatch or changes in grounds.

SQLGuy

Thanks Bill,

I had found an earlier version of this diagram with the DPDT relay, and was planning to do something like that.

Can you tell me why you're pulling low on 11-3 (through the diode) when releasing the hatch? That should get grounded anyway as soon as the hatch pops, by the hatch switch.

Thanks,
Paul

Alan

In a manual car without any indication of neutral I think it would be stupid to enable a remote start. You might as well call it the "remote crash into another car button".

You weren't really serious were you ?

You can use either horn - either one is loud enough.

Your GTS already has the windows & sunroof close on lock - did you ever hold the key in lock mode?
- All you need to do is configure for long lock pulses (as long as you hold the button).

Various hatch opening mechanisms have been proven to work - just use one you like.

Alan

jeff spahn

Bill. Will this setup work on a 90 S4 just the same?

Bill Ball

I found I needed to provide a longer ground signal to the hatch circuit than provided by the remote as the hatch release motor would not finish the cycle and the hatch would not relatch later. Pulling 11-3 low from the door pin switch circuit resolved that. I'd have to go back to the wiring diagrams to rediscover why the pin switch and hatch motor ground didn't communicate until I did this connection.

Bill Ball

90 does not have the single alarm box under the RH seat, so it is different. This is my latest variation, but I have not tried it yet. There are alternative schemes and places to hook into things, such as the door locks at the central locking box in the console.

jeff spahn

Bill do you or does anyone have pictures of what the alarm in the console and the alarm above the EZK looks like? I am not afraid to do this myself (though I wouldn't mind an alarm shop doing it) if I provided them photos of the components and this wiring diagram. I would really like keyless entry and don't need remote start.

Also, I wasn't able to locate a 12v power supply inside. From where should I draw 12V power. My car had an amp but when I test the red wire in the little box next to the passenger seat I don't get power. Where should I look to remedy this?

brutus

I love that line can not help but think how often I bump my remote alarm for my other car as I pull it from my pocket. The thought of the car starting

jeff spahn

Very James Bond. Q should make one of those.

Bill Ball

I had the same question. You know that little carpeted panel on the outer side of the glovebox? It's behind there with the lamp control unit. Look at this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...4-problem.html

I have been working towards a photo guide. Randy and others have correctly pointed out that the wiring diagrams Alan, borland, Ed Scherer and I have posted just don't do it for most people. Also, getting to the additional alarm box behind the radio is a challenge.

Look at Ed Scherer scheme in the first post in the thread I link to above. It shows where he sourced 12V and ignition switched power.

jeff spahn

Ahh. It looks like L12 or L25 for constant 12v power and Q15 or Q24 for ignition sourced power.