brealytrent

Erm, thank you? Lol
Luckily the past owners made an effort to keep the engine in good condition...nine years ago. :/

AirtekHVAC

I jest...please take no offense.

Mine has been sitting outside under a tree for 19 years! The PO stripped out the fuel system, and left her....windshield was busted, water got in...floor pans are rusted, CE was shot...four rotten, flat tires...the entire bottom of the car is coated with surface rust....the roof is rusted, but solid, all the seals are shot.....etc

I have redone the vacuum lines, the fuel lines, the main power line from the battery, the 14 pin connector, cleaned all grounds, cleaned the plugs, rebuilt the fuel sender, cleaned the throttle body and replaced the spider couplings, replaced the CE. I got the motor to turn over, but of course, with no fuel / tank, it ain't gonna fire...had to stop for a while....flip through the pics thread and you'll see a few shots....

brealytrent

Holy mackerel, Ron! I commend you on your commitment to fixing that poor 928. While it's plainly evident someone drove mine in winter regularly, My car has not reached the epic proportions that yours has. Besides a seepy oil pan and bad motor mounts, the engine is quite solid. I don't think this car was driven much in the past 10 years after they put more than $5500 in parts and labor into the engine and replaced torque tube. Just some rust now and electrical gremlins. For example: the blower motor worked for 30 seconds when I got the car, and now does nothing. I did notice though that the fuse labeled as heating had been converted to a modern fuse and is completely melted. I can also hear the relays clicking when moving the lower slider around. But, for now I just want to get the car cleaned up and running again!

brealytrent

So finally a little relief from the heat! Ugh. Well anyways, I've been doing a lot on the car. I removed the pod, cleaned all contacts, grounds and replaced bulbs (No pics, sorry! ) Everything looked good, so I put it back together.
Now that I've finished: sealing seams, sand blasting, painting, undercoating, and removing rust (rather plentiful, I might add) - I am just about ready to put the gas tank back in so I can hear that beautiful engine again But before that I have:

Drained the differential




Put in fresh oil into the differential




Welded a new stud to the tank strap (broken before). I might add that the tank strap was sand blasted and re painted. Of course I forgot to cut the stud first...




Removed the exhaust




No wonder the exhaust was so loud!




Luckily my car is an open-loop vehicle




Tipped the exhaust upward and this is what fell out




The neighborhood bambies like to watch




Will have this piece-of-junk exhaust cleaned up and weld up the leaks, as well as have the catalytic converter opened and the rest of the catalyst removed to get rid of the rattling. We're gittin' there! Hopefully the tank will be back in about two days from now. We'll see though, things seem to take longer on this thing than expected...

brealytrent

Re-painted exhaust after repair:




Remnants of Catalyst:




Tank and fuel pump with new fuel lines, rubber bushings, and fuel filter installed:




Pic of fuel sending unit. A wire brush fitment on a drill and sandpaper cleaned this up - then it was primed and painted. Still reads empty all the time, need to check if it's the actual sending unit or another problem. One of the wires inside had corrosion at the little connecter inside. And yes, I cleaned that rusty pin :

brealytrent

Well it runs! It's nice to hear the engine again. The only good thing going for this thing right now is it's engine, however a problem has arisen.
When I got the car, the exhaust was very loud and rattly. I assumed it was the exhaust because when you banged on it you could hear all sorts of ruckus from the junk catalyst inside. Well, since that option has been removed, It must be something else.

Here are two videos to help others who might be able to give me a hint as to what is causing this -

This first one shows the sound at idle at startup and shutoff.



This last one is the car idling and different positions underneath. The sound seems to be coming from somewhere near the engine, like the bellhousing.




I fear it may be a bearing in the torque tube, as the sound seems to go away when put in drive. Any ideas? :/

Leon Speed

Just read this thread and I want to say: wow! Wow to the amount of rust and wow to your handy work repairing it. I wouldn't be able to do it. Mechanics fine, body work I cry like a little girl.

Now to the sound: I hope it is the torque tube. if not, it is the torque converter or the transmission. It sure sound like torque converter bearings because it gets louder when you get to the torque converter. Anyway, lots of threads here available on rebuilding the torque tube and the torque converter.

namasgt

Nice work, do you know if your car had LSD?
If it has LSD you need fluid compatible with LSD diffs.

86'928S MeteorGrey

It's probably the TC carrier bearings. I had a similar issue with my 89 S4. Sometimes you can see some metal shavings with a small dental mirror and a flashlight through the rear coupler hole in the TT.... Looks like you're going to be dropping the rear member and transaxel/TT soon.... You'll need access to a hydrolic press for the TC bearings...

Hilton

Very cool save underway here - keep posting updates

Please take more pics as you sort those welds and the surface in the window groove and rear mounting surface.. they're both common problems for 928's in wet/salty places like the UK and something that isn't documented much

brealytrent

NO MORE RATTLE!

Turns out the rear pinch clamp was no where tight enough and needed to be tightened. I loosened both the front and rear clamps to get rid of any preload, and pried on the flywheel to check for play. It moved next to none, so that's a relief as well!

Here's her revving. Not the most awesome sound I've heard, but I'll take it over the way it was - noisy with exhaust leaks!

brealytrent

So, another random question for a slightly random problem. At one point about nine or so years ago, the blower quit working on the car. the blower itself was replaced and then went about their lives. Then they had problems again more recently, about seven years ago. Instead of actually fixing the problem they put this in:




As you can see, thur's a problem hur! They replaced the old euro fuse (whatever they're called) in fuse spot 17 with this little setup, and not too long ago the whole thing melted - like five minutes into ownership. Fuse 17 is listed as "Heating". As of now, the blower does nothing in any setting, however I can hear the relay behind the climate controls clicking and hear the vents moving.

So, too many amps? corroded connection? Both? Bad resistor pack? I'm open to suggestions and ideas to fix this dumb thing. Wouldn't it be a nice surprise if the AC worked!

EDIT: Just bothered to look at the manual. There's supposed to be a 25 amp fuse for this spot, and they used a 20. I'm sure that didn't help...
(Also sorry for jumping from one project to another, I just can't control myself and have to do something else. There's so much to do!)

brealytrent

Finally got around to draining the transmission oil pan and torque converter. It appears that the fluid has been changed before, but the filter very well may be original, being genuine mercedes part. Also took this opportunity to sand and repaint the pan as it had some surface rust on the outside. I'm sure you'll all be glad to know that I put in the best, highest quality ATF known to man: Blain's Farm & Fleet Dexron 3 rated ATF



pretty cruddy transmission filter. However the fluid was clean and there weren't any flakes to worry me.


Repainted pan. Sanded and used hi-temp black rattlecan paint. It gives a nice, even and tough coating IMO.


To drain the TC I had to pull off the the flywheel bellhousing. Since I was missing the foam piece that goes between it and the starter, I made my own foam piece



Next was the left tie-rod. The right front was replaced a few years back and is still in good condition, but the left was original and horrible. While there, I also replaced the rack boots as both were junk:

loose ball-joint



cracked and rusted boot of tie-rod end






Next on the agenda: repack front wheel bearings, change engine oil, and install new rear rotors and calipers. Then it's time for a little

brealytrent

So, I started working on replacing the hood release cable since the old one was completely junk. I noticed to get access to the cable in the left front fender all the plastic covers had to come off. here's just a bit of the nastiness I found:











This might explain why my cruise control doesn't work!

Leon Speed

Wow -crusty bits! You will need a new alternator cooling hose and HVAC temperature sender as well. Roger sells a cheaper replacement hose, 928 International has used temp senders.

What's with the oil dripping?