Dan87951

Its coming together nicely good work!

brealytrent

And besides that, I haven't done much :P Bled the brakes (not as big of a deal as all y'all made it sound), and that's pretty much it.
P.S. - the plastic panel doesn't look that bad in real life - I did take a paint stripper to it though as the thing had thirty years of tar, undercoat, and overspray on it.
P.P.S - I'm not sure I routed the alternator cooling hose right, as the old one was no longer where it should have been... I went with the only logical rout but even that seems a bit vulnerable.

brealytrent

I drove her!
I must say it is nice to see her on the ground again. That new tie rod and wheel bearing has really helped the feel and the prior darty behavior the car used to have. It also seems to ride a lot more smoothly now. I used to think that the car needed new motor mounts (probably still does), but the vibrations are largely gone. Also a ton quieter now that the exhaust was fixed.
Couple electrical issues though: The speedometer has stopped working? I did have the pod out to clean connections and change bulbs. Could I have just not have all the plugs on all the way or something? For some reason, the PO had the ground to the ABS system disconnected, which I reconnected. Is that maybe causing problems? The ABS system seems to be working fine reconnected, so I don't know why they disconnected it in the first place. Oh well, I've got time to figure it out (I think). Next major hurtles: bodywork!!! I've got to get the right rear quarter window back in ASAP, but to do that the paintwork needs to be done! Workworkwork...

jej3

Awesome Thread! Keep it up!

brealytrent

Got an estimate to get the body fixed: $2,472.92
She really needs the whole body repainted, but we're talking about $5000 or more then. And considering a change of future plans - meaning I won't be able to afford to keep the car - I don't see the point of putting more money than I need to at this point if it's going to be sold. Fix what needs to be fixed, and sell it.
The change in future plans is I am going to be studying abroad for a year in Copenhagen or Frankfurt, and I'm gonna need as much money as I can get saved up!

Pagnobito

The speedometer is run off the same fuse as the interior lights I think

brealytrent

I got the speedometer working - loose connection in back of pod. Thanks anyway though

brealytrent

Earlier I pulled the computer brain for the cruise control to see if I could get it working. I wasn't sure if there was a vaccum leak, but I thought I'd take a peek anyways.





Obviously I'm not the first person to try and figure this out:



I tried to reflow some of the solder as there were a couple funky connections





In the end, I may have partially fixed it - If you push the stalk forward, it will accelerate. Just not hold a speed. Maybe I'll try the oven method next.

brealytrent

Since I've been driving the 928 quite a bit lately, I decided I would like to see what the timing belt, cam gear, etc looked like.





First off, I can tell you the belt is WAY TOO LOOSE. You could move the belt slightly on the gear! So now I've got to tighten it up a bit for now. What surprises me is that the cam tension warning light hasn't been coming on. How loose does the belt have to be before it's a problem, or is the switch not working?




Lastly, does this gear look good, or need to be replaced?


And yes I know, I should replace the timing belt/water pump...we'll get there, probably in spring. Right now I've got a clutch kit I've got to install in my 924, and the temps are gonna be in the 20's this weekend! :/

John Speake

I don't think your MY has the cambelt warning light, that came in MY1985 or 86 IIRC.

Do you have the right angled connector for the warning light on the cambelt cover PS side ?

brealytrent

Not as far as I know, but I know there is a timing belt light on my dash pod, although I don't ever see it turn on when I turn the key to 'on' initially... It's in German too, so I think it's the original gauge. :/

John Speake

I'll check my info tommorow.... when I'm back in the office.

BRB-83-911SC

85 was the first year for the timing belt tension warning. My 84 euro does not have it, and a friend's 85 euro does.

Get the Kempf tool to check your belt tension.

terry gt

Perhaps the presence of a belt tension warning light , means a interference motor . All the more reason to take care of the belt system

Landseer

Interesting thought. Maybe so.

My 84 vin 1365 does not have.

Here's the service info tech intro to the Euro 85 car -- they start out by telling what is different for the model year. Impressive list of upgrades. (I guess it doesn't mean that the 84 didn't have them)

This is a tangential observation --- Seems odd, and not supported by Tech Spec Bulletin that covers 1985, but it appears that it was possible to acquire an 85 in FDR with the optional 178kW engine ( Is that the L-Jet???)