No juice at Jumper Post
#1
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This is on the '79 track car.
12v at starter and alternator, but not at the jumper post under the hood.
Tom M. suggested running a jumper cable from the lug on the alternator to the jumper post and the starter cranked over fine with a twist of the key.
Its such a large gauge wire that I find it hard to believe that it is broken through. I'm thinking maybe it's just shorted out?
Anyone experience this situation before? I'm presuming its a single heavy gauge wire that's a straight shot from the alternator to the jumper post, but the wiring diagram is a little ambiguous. It shows a single line coming off the alternator and then splitting into three, but doesn't specifically show the jumper post.
Thanks for any help.
12v at starter and alternator, but not at the jumper post under the hood.
Tom M. suggested running a jumper cable from the lug on the alternator to the jumper post and the starter cranked over fine with a twist of the key.
Its such a large gauge wire that I find it hard to believe that it is broken through. I'm thinking maybe it's just shorted out?
Anyone experience this situation before? I'm presuming its a single heavy gauge wire that's a straight shot from the alternator to the jumper post, but the wiring diagram is a little ambiguous. It shows a single line coming off the alternator and then splitting into three, but doesn't specifically show the jumper post.
Thanks for any help.
#2
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Good hunting!
#3
Race Car
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Isn't this the harness that goes through the timing belt on the driver's side and across the front of the engine to the jump post? I would think if it shorted to ground, it would only be for an instant as it would try to become a welder until it melted a break.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
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#5
Nordschleife Master
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I suggest it's corrosion at the ends. Between the connector and the cable or the connector and the stud. Very hard for the cable itself to go bad.
#7
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It's not unlikely that it could be broken....here's a pic of mine before Chris F rebuilt it....the frayed part was right where it went through the tbelt cover...excitation circuit, starter solenoid wire, amongst others were affected...
![](http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh39/midlman/harness1.jpg)
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#8
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That is downright ugly Tom.
I'm trying to avoid pulling and replacing the wire. Maybe, if there is a break, I can soldier and shrink wrap. I'm going to try to get out there for a couple of hours in the late morning.
Would very much like to get this beast running so I can get it caged.
I'm trying to avoid pulling and replacing the wire. Maybe, if there is a break, I can soldier and shrink wrap. I'm going to try to get out there for a couple of hours in the late morning.
Would very much like to get this beast running so I can get it caged.
#9
Electron Wrangler
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Replacig the wire is the best bet - unless the issue is at an end and you don't have to shorten too much. Do not repair a break in the middle of the wire - bad idea...
Alan
Alan
#11
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I had a similar problem during my 2010 summer WP/TP/Intake refresh project.
Here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/568589-frayed-cable-how-do-i-fix-this-fixed.html
The combination of soldering the frayed wires and wrapping them in self vulcanizing silicone tape seems to have done the trick. It's been over a year and a half and no problems. (that I know of)
Once you take the wiring harness apart and find the problem, you might be able get away with an easier fix than replacing the entire cable harness.
Here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/568589-frayed-cable-how-do-i-fix-this-fixed.html
The combination of soldering the frayed wires and wrapping them in self vulcanizing silicone tape seems to have done the trick. It's been over a year and a half and no problems. (that I know of)
Once you take the wiring harness apart and find the problem, you might be able get away with an easier fix than replacing the entire cable harness.
#12
Instructor
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I was going to replace that action in mine myself after reading it can be source of problems from time to time. I was going to replace it with a larger gauge at the same time. But I bought too short of a length and need to re-measure.
It is not that expensive, so I agree you should replace the wire and put new ends on and be done with that section.
It is not that expensive, so I agree you should replace the wire and put new ends on and be done with that section.
#13
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Idiot maneuver. Took a hard look at the rear of the alternator when the car was in the air before getting started this morning and saw the jump post lead was on the field winding terminal. Moved it over and the car cranked right up. Total rookie move. Would not have believed it had I not seen it with my own eyes. Sometimes, I wonder what I'm thinking when I work on my car.
BTW, thanks to everyone who volunteered responses - and for presuming that I had done it right the first time.
BTW, thanks to everyone who volunteered responses - and for presuming that I had done it right the first time.
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