89 auto LSD test...
#16
Ya..we started at 30lbs, then 20, then 10..then..well, didnt need more than a finger.
#17
What condition were your CV joints in? And the two Rear wheel bearings?
My 88 would make a rumbling sound on the drivers side every time I turned. Can't remember if it was turning left or right, I want to say it was doing it when I turned right?. The CV joint boot was teared up on the drivers side.
Don't just inspect the CV boots visually, get your hand in there and see if you can feel any tears. I have also, opened CV joints with perfectly fine boots, only to find some rust crums inside....
The boots could have gotten damaged from old age when you did the swap, or there could be a possibility that someone rebuilt them before you got the car and did not seal it properly causing some water to get in, see if the vent holes on the ends are not plugged up.
All of this is of course if you did not rebuild your CV joints while replacing the gear box...If you have already done that, it could be the rear wheel bearings?
My 88 would make a rumbling sound on the drivers side every time I turned. Can't remember if it was turning left or right, I want to say it was doing it when I turned right?. The CV joint boot was teared up on the drivers side.
Don't just inspect the CV boots visually, get your hand in there and see if you can feel any tears. I have also, opened CV joints with perfectly fine boots, only to find some rust crums inside....
The boots could have gotten damaged from old age when you did the swap, or there could be a possibility that someone rebuilt them before you got the car and did not seal it properly causing some water to get in, see if the vent holes on the ends are not plugged up.
All of this is of course if you did not rebuild your CV joints while replacing the gear box...If you have already done that, it could be the rear wheel bearings?
Was about a $6000 week back there..everything touched, was replaced.
Rear wheel bearings felt peachy as well.
The rear end has the thunka-thunka-thunka crunching only when you start to turn from perfectly straight..go straight, no rear end noise...which is why I wondered how TIGHT the rear was.
Not how loose it may be.
#18
Ha Ha. Sorry, didn't realize that you had installed the unit separately hence my prior (very) weak attempt at humor.
I've seen LSD's that will do that (not on a 928 though)- one tire spinners on the ground that will still light up both under throttle. Of course, I don't know what kind of reflection that is on their LSD's condition.
Sounds like you may need to back into a puddle, do a launch, and see if any of that force translates into a posi burnout. The noise is a little concerning though, not familiar with diff noise being common among 928's.
I've seen LSD's that will do that (not on a 928 though)- one tire spinners on the ground that will still light up both under throttle. Of course, I don't know what kind of reflection that is on their LSD's condition.
Sounds like you may need to back into a puddle, do a launch, and see if any of that force translates into a posi burnout. The noise is a little concerning though, not familiar with diff noise being common among 928's.
#19
odd....it does sound like wheel bearings to me.....replacing mine fixed it....
here is my highly in-accurate test....get both wheels off the ground.....spin one wheel.....the other SHOULD spin at the same speed..... The widow had a week LSD and the other wheel wouldn't turn at all..... Of course having someone hold the other wheel gives you an idea how strong it is...
Even though the Estate is having LSD problems....I think the diff itself is normal....its the suspension thats messed up...
here is my highly in-accurate test....get both wheels off the ground.....spin one wheel.....the other SHOULD spin at the same speed..... The widow had a week LSD and the other wheel wouldn't turn at all..... Of course having someone hold the other wheel gives you an idea how strong it is...
Even though the Estate is having LSD problems....I think the diff itself is normal....its the suspension thats messed up...
#20
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Jeff--
For grins, verify with torque wrench that all the bolts from inner CV joint to the drive flange are tight. IIRC the spec is something like 62 lbs/ft, and that's more than a casual amount of torque in the relatively tight space. Similarly, verify both rear axle nuts are properly at 326 lbs/ft. A loose rear axle nut will not be clamping the rear wheel bearing correctly, and it will be noisy and in fact will be trashed pretty quickly.
You can simulate the slow-speed turning by raisng the rear and supporting it on the suspension arms with the wheels removed to keep the axle alignment close to driving normal. With zero LSD action you should be able to stop one rear wheel at a time with the parking brake cables. Or, put a vise-grip style clamp around the rotor and let it wedge against the caliper. If the problem is in the differential, you'll find it quickly by localizing the noise with the car idling in gear.
Did you drop the whole rear suspension out when you did the trans? New trans mounts? Put the original alignment shims back where they came from? Is everything tight again? Particularly the two long pivot shafts through the shocks and control arm?
For grins, verify with torque wrench that all the bolts from inner CV joint to the drive flange are tight. IIRC the spec is something like 62 lbs/ft, and that's more than a casual amount of torque in the relatively tight space. Similarly, verify both rear axle nuts are properly at 326 lbs/ft. A loose rear axle nut will not be clamping the rear wheel bearing correctly, and it will be noisy and in fact will be trashed pretty quickly.
You can simulate the slow-speed turning by raisng the rear and supporting it on the suspension arms with the wheels removed to keep the axle alignment close to driving normal. With zero LSD action you should be able to stop one rear wheel at a time with the parking brake cables. Or, put a vise-grip style clamp around the rotor and let it wedge against the caliper. If the problem is in the differential, you'll find it quickly by localizing the noise with the car idling in gear.
Did you drop the whole rear suspension out when you did the trans? New trans mounts? Put the original alignment shims back where they came from? Is everything tight again? Particularly the two long pivot shafts through the shocks and control arm?
#21
FWIW Jeff, your video spins like my open diff...looks like the same one-armer spin strength I recently did after changing pads (one wheel elevated).
Don't know, but is it possible that lack of oil change could leave the LSD "trying" to operate at slight turn causing the noise. Perhaps the unit is fine, sounds normal going straight, is hindered when turning and attempting to activate (light chatter), and new oil with friction additive will allow it to engage as normal.
Don't know, but is it possible that lack of oil change could leave the LSD "trying" to operate at slight turn causing the noise. Perhaps the unit is fine, sounds normal going straight, is hindered when turning and attempting to activate (light chatter), and new oil with friction additive will allow it to engage as normal.
#25
Im in Macau..so catching up.
Bill met me at Sears Pt over lunch, and we re-checked it.
He noticed the whiiiiiiine from out back, and the crunch-crunch-crunch in tight slow turns.
But..Ive NEVER had a single wheel spin under any conditions so far..since this was installed.
Will change fluid for the fun of it in a few weeks...the LSD is likelt...good.
4-14lbs eh...geesh.
There's something I dont know...in how that torque figure works the way it does.
Bill met me at Sears Pt over lunch, and we re-checked it.
He noticed the whiiiiiiine from out back, and the crunch-crunch-crunch in tight slow turns.
But..Ive NEVER had a single wheel spin under any conditions so far..since this was installed.
Will change fluid for the fun of it in a few weeks...the LSD is likelt...good.
4-14lbs eh...geesh.
There's something I dont know...in how that torque figure works the way it does.
#26
It doesn't.
Porsche continued to call the limited slips 40%, even after they dropped the break away torque, in more than half.
These are not "dry performance" limited slips, but designed for wet weather or snow only.
Porsche continued to call the limited slips 40%, even after they dropped the break away torque, in more than half.
These are not "dry performance" limited slips, but designed for wet weather or snow only.
#28
#29