ROG100

Ok Ok Sean says it is good and "THE" Greg gave it his nod so we are a full go.

I have some more arriving at the end of this week if anyone wants one.

And a big thank you to Sterling who made it happen.

SeanR

According to Sterling, this starter will mount the other direction, which should give you plenty of room the other way. I didn't spend any time trying to reverse mount it.

ALKada

Nice work guys. A big thank you to Sterling for getting this engineered and taking his time for the rest of us.

ShawnSmith

So folks, I now have this starter in my 6.5 stroker car.

It is _revolutionary_. The previous starter struggled to turn the big motor. On a good day, it fired quickly from a less than overwhelming cranking. On a bad day it felt like an ad for a get-a-new-battery commercial. It also sounded lousy, like somehow it had been borrowed from an an econo-car of vaguely asian persuasion.

The new starter CRANKS. Gotta be at least double the rpm. It acts like it'll fire the motor, or heck put it in gear and it'll haul the whole car home if you need.

If you have any doubt in your mind between this and the older lightweight starter options, remove that doubt.

PS Greg Brown's new headers ROCK from 4k to 6k rpm and sound even better.

SeanR

I always have to worry that people are thinking I'm pumping Rogers products when I post a review like this, so I am glad that you found the exact same experience that I did with it. Especially since we have both put them on a GB stroker.

ShawnSmith

This starter CRANKS. Zero need for propaganda.

928er

That was the primary need when I was working with them to redesign it. faster cranking more torque cranking.

This new one will fit even with a pan spacer.... some mods are required. Clearancing on the pan and the starter.

Ducman82

what kind of clearancing?

GregBBRD

I clearanced quite a bit, when trying to fit this starter into Shawn's car, which has a pan spacer. I was actually about ready to give up, when I discovered that the "adaptor" that the actual "motor" bolts to (part of the new starter) was not correctly installed, when the starter was assembled. Turns out that this "adaptor" is not "centered" on the "motor" portion and has "offset". I removed this adaptor, turned it 180 degrees, and the starter "jumped" into position, with the clearancing I had already done. Once the "adaptor" was properly clocked, there was plenty of clearance between the pan and the starter.

It's a great, great new product!

It fits wonderfully, tucked up directly under the oil pan, in line with the crankshaft, instead of hanging off towards the driver's side, like the older IMI units.

It's so "refreshing" to get a "new" 928 product that actually fits and works properly....without the product needing "multiple redesigns" after it is sold....if you know what I mean.

The increased speed and torque "wings" these big engines over, like they are stockers. It also no longer has the "Japanese economy car starter noise", but sounds correct, for the 928.

Rob Edwards stopped by with another "load" of pieces for Dan Hebert's "new" car, took one listen and told me to order him one, too.

Magnificent job, Sterling and Roger!

Speedtoys

Great news Greg.


Secondary question..is there any mod to get fuel pressure into the system sooner than the 3 revs or so the ECU wants to see before firing up?


Or..if im mistaken in what the craaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaank delay start is, can it be sped up?

928er

its not realy the lack of fuel that keeps it from starting Most computres need to see the cam and crank signal a couple of times before firing the ignition to start the engine. The moteck requres one more revolution than stock so it always seems to taek a bit to start.

Alan

Well depending on how long since you last started, and how well your car holds fuel pressure - there is a small delay until the fuel pumps pressurize - since stock they only turn on after rotation is detected (S4). Older models had a fuel pump relay that did a priming pulse when the ignition was first turned on. You could replicate this by turning on the fuel relay independant of the ECU for a second or 2 when the ignition is first turned on. In practice this means a separate parallel ground to the fuel pump relay coil. A diode, resistor & large capacitor could do it, or more conveniently sized with an RC network and a FET.

Alan

Podguy

Roger,

Not to just the thread but how about a kit including a Chevy alternator with the correct pigtail, shims and fan belt. It would be nice to have this all in one kit with the best and most reliable alternator brand included. There are a lot of rebuilt ones and some people offer a chrome or polished ones as well. Give how bad the Porsche alternators are on the older cars this might make a lot more people try it and have good outcomes.

Livio928

[quoteNot to just the thread but how about a kit including a Chevy alternator with the correct pigtail, shims and fan belt. It would be nice to have this all in one kit with the best and most reliable alternator brand included. There are a lot of rebuilt ones and some people offer a chrome or polished ones as well. Give how bad the Porsche alternators are on the older cars this might make a lot more people try it and have good outcomes.
][/quote]

Rob Edwards

Got RogerSterling's new IMI starter up and in place- As on Shawn's car, rotating the adaptor plate 180 degrees, plus some clearancing on the starter case bolt cage, buys enough space to mount them up, even with a 3/8" pan spacer in place. The shot of the (+) terminal looks a lot closer to that oil pan bolt than it is!

If you're gonna run a rear belly pan, you will need to mash flat the driver's side 'fin', about a 10 second job with your left foot....