Newbie with an 83 16v Need TB/WP change asap
#48
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Be prepared to throw up a little bit in your mouth when you see the price of the cam gears. Porsche is very proud of them.
#49
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Well spent most of the day hunting down some cam gears, ordered the cam seals as well. Power washed the front of the engine. So waiting for parts to show up and start wrenching.
I then have to change the Torque Tube. Will need some guidance on that task when it comes up after this one. I am loving the learning process though!!
I then have to change the Torque Tube. Will need some guidance on that task when it comes up after this one. I am loving the learning process though!!
#50
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Torque tubes are expensive. It is rare for a five speed torque tube to go bad. Bearings are cheap. You can second source them on the Internet for about $5 each. I think there are 3 (?) in the manual tube. I have some write up on my web site. I used a porta power and some home made wooden donuts cut with hole saws to press the bearing out and back in. Harbor Freight sells a 4 ton unit for just over $100.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-h...kit-44899.html
Jeager also makes some plastic bushing and has a pretty good instruction sheet although most times the old bushings can be used.
Good luck
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-h...kit-44899.html
Jeager also makes some plastic bushing and has a pretty good instruction sheet although most times the old bushings can be used.
Good luck
#51
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You will need all of these, so double-check your list....
2 Rear Cam Cover Seals (silicon) 928 106 189 02s
2 Cam Shaft Seal - Driven - 77-95 999 113 282 40
2 Cam shaft O-Ring 77-86 small 928 701 592 40
2 Cam shaft O-Ring 77-86 Large 999 701 602 40
2 Cam Tower Seal 928 105 184 00
1 Distributor Seal 928 602 103 00
2 Rear Cam Cover Seals (silicon) 928 106 189 02s
2 Cam Shaft Seal - Driven - 77-95 999 113 282 40
2 Cam shaft O-Ring 77-86 small 928 701 592 40
2 Cam shaft O-Ring 77-86 Large 999 701 602 40
2 Cam Tower Seal 928 105 184 00
1 Distributor Seal 928 602 103 00
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Torque tubes are expensive. It is rare for a five speed torque tube to go bad. Bearings are cheap. You can second source them on the Internet for about $5 each. I think there are 3 (?) in the manual tube. I have some write up on my web site. I used a porta power and some home made wooden donuts cut with hole saws to press the bearing out and back in. Harbor Freight sells a 4 ton unit for just over $100.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-h...kit-44899.html
Jeager also makes some plastic bushing and has a pretty good instruction sheet although most times the old bushings can be used.
Good luck
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-h...kit-44899.html
Jeager also makes some plastic bushing and has a pretty good instruction sheet although most times the old bushings can be used.
Good luck
Not sure how true that may be..
#53
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We also supply the bearing sleeves in delrin - $21 each - both sizes.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#54
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You do not have to pull the rear suspension to install a torque tube. It can be disconnected from the front and pulled down to get at the rear bolts. The transmission mounts need to be unbolted and the trans slid back a little to make room.
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Ok, I have gotten quite a few things off the front. I cannot see the marking for the 45 on the crankshaft. I see 1 white line on the crankshaft with no #' s associated with it. What value am I to assume it is if any? ( Any suggestions welcome here ) And the cam sprcket on the passenger side has 3 4 white lines opposite each other. I don't see the markins to line that with as well. Enjoy the pics
Ok. 1 thing I think I see. (others please confirm/deny)
1-That Oil pump sprocket looks to me from the pictures like the square tooth type (or very worn) however the cam sprockets look like the round tooth (later) Type. [edit- With the wear on the other gears its hard to believe the oil pump sprocket is good. a flat edge along the gear teeth should show any wear. Its the cheapest gear I believe, so replacement may be a good idea even if it appears good. Besides, you have to take it off to replace the oil pump shaft seal. . One of those WYAI(while You're at it). moves.
Missmatched sprockets = bad
That water pump is done.
I would pressure wash the front of the motor before taking anything off. [edit-You said it was done]
There is a ton of old belt residue and oil that will be a mess unless you do a ton of cleaning before you even get started (Trust me its the only way).
I would go for a Porkentensioner and WP with a gates belt. Replace all the gears (Cam (x2), Oil pump, crank).
Wow.. I'm going outside and kiss my car because you're car is making my car look hawt.! (joking). Good luck!
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OMG my eyes! the horrors!
Ok. 1 thing I think I see. (others please confirm/deny)
1-That Oil pump sprocket looks to me from the pictures like the square tooth type (or very worn) however the cam sprockets look like the round tooth (later) Type. [edit- With the wear on the other gears its hard to believe the oil pump sprocket is good. a flat edge along the gear teeth should show any wear. Its the cheapest gear I believe, so replacement may be a good idea even if it appears good. Besides, you have to take it off to replace the oil pump shaft seal. . One of those WYAI(while You're at it). moves.
Missmatched sprockets = bad
That water pump is done.
I would pressure wash the front of the motor before taking anything off. [edit-You said it was done]
There is a ton of old belt residue and oil that will be a mess unless you do a ton of cleaning before you even get started (Trust me its the only way).
I would go for a Porkentensioner and WP with a gates belt. Replace all the gears (Cam (x2), Oil pump, crank).
Wow.. I'm going outside and kiss my car because you're car is making my car look hawt.! (joking). Good luck!
Ok. 1 thing I think I see. (others please confirm/deny)
1-That Oil pump sprocket looks to me from the pictures like the square tooth type (or very worn) however the cam sprockets look like the round tooth (later) Type. [edit- With the wear on the other gears its hard to believe the oil pump sprocket is good. a flat edge along the gear teeth should show any wear. Its the cheapest gear I believe, so replacement may be a good idea even if it appears good. Besides, you have to take it off to replace the oil pump shaft seal. . One of those WYAI(while You're at it). moves.
Missmatched sprockets = bad
That water pump is done.
I would pressure wash the front of the motor before taking anything off. [edit-You said it was done]
There is a ton of old belt residue and oil that will be a mess unless you do a ton of cleaning before you even get started (Trust me its the only way).
I would go for a Porkentensioner and WP with a gates belt. Replace all the gears (Cam (x2), Oil pump, crank).
Wow.. I'm going outside and kiss my car because you're car is making my car look hawt.! (joking). Good luck!
The spockets are all round. The oil sprocket is fine actually. I replaced the cam spockets (finally ) as well as the seals. The drivers seal was a PITA for some reason.
Here r some pics of my journey. Coming close to the end.
Have a question regarding the oil tensioner. The bolt that goes in the oil passage, it is the shortest bolt correct?
#60
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Did you replace the list of seals or just the lip seals?
Because the lip seals are the least of your worries with leakage.
Good work. Way to save a car.
IIRC, all the threaded sections of bolts, when washers/covers are considered, will extend or protrude a uniform distance when measured from the back of the tensioner base. Same for water pump.
IIRC, the PET diagram shows the bolts with mm designations.
Do you have access to PET? The old PET's shipped with the special CD's Roger has should show it and are themselves very useful, even if not the newest.
We have a great saves thread here somewhere. Yours might should be entered. More pictures. I love it when somebody takes the time to clean up one of these old war horses. The one in my avatar was down for dead, now its reliable enough to be making latenight longdistance runs around the country. Screw the perfect cosmetics, these were made to run.
Because the lip seals are the least of your worries with leakage.
Good work. Way to save a car.
IIRC, all the threaded sections of bolts, when washers/covers are considered, will extend or protrude a uniform distance when measured from the back of the tensioner base. Same for water pump.
IIRC, the PET diagram shows the bolts with mm designations.
Do you have access to PET? The old PET's shipped with the special CD's Roger has should show it and are themselves very useful, even if not the newest.
We have a great saves thread here somewhere. Yours might should be entered. More pictures. I love it when somebody takes the time to clean up one of these old war horses. The one in my avatar was down for dead, now its reliable enough to be making latenight longdistance runs around the country. Screw the perfect cosmetics, these were made to run.