Landseer

Having a flywheel lock is worth the money.
You might want to shop your new parts a bit, since you will need a slew of them.

danglerb

Those must have been very special miles, thats a lot of wear.

jeff spahn

Be prepared to throw up a little bit in your mouth when you see the price of the cam gears. Porsche is very proud of them.

Settin03

Well spent most of the day hunting down some cam gears, ordered the cam seals as well. Power washed the front of the engine. So waiting for parts to show up and start wrenching.
I then have to change the Torque Tube. Will need some guidance on that task when it comes up after this one. I am loving the learning process though!!

Podguy

Torque tubes are expensive. It is rare for a five speed torque tube to go bad. Bearings are cheap. You can second source them on the Internet for about $5 each. I think there are 3 (?) in the manual tube. I have some write up on my web site. I used a porta power and some home made wooden donuts cut with hole saws to press the bearing out and back in. Harbor Freight sells a 4 ton unit for just over $100.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-h...kit-44899.html

Jeager also makes some plastic bushing and has a pretty good instruction sheet although most times the old bushings can be used.

Good luck

Landseer

You will need all of these, so double-check your list....

2 Rear Cam Cover Seals (silicon) 928 106 189 02s
2 Cam Shaft Seal - Driven - 77-95 999 113 282 40
2 Cam shaft O-Ring 77-86 small 928 701 592 40
2 Cam shaft O-Ring 77-86 Large 999 701 602 40
2 Cam Tower Seal 928 105 184 00
1 Distributor Seal 928 602 103 00

Settin03

I actaully have another TT with new bearings installed. So I will just have to figure out how to take out the old and put in the new. I was told that the rear may need to be loosend and the alignment will need to be done over??
Not sure how true that may be..

ROG100

We also supply the bearing sleeves in delrin - $21 each - both sizes.

Podguy

You do not have to pull the rear suspension to install a torque tube. It can be disconnected from the front and pulled down to get at the rear bolts. The transmission mounts need to be unbolted and the trans slid back a little to make room.

Landseer

But put no pressure on the transmission input shaft. Very important.

Landseer

Very good, didn't know this! Thanks Roger.

dcrasta

OMG my eyes! the horrors!

Ok. 1 thing I think I see. (others please confirm/deny)

1-That Oil pump sprocket looks to me from the pictures like the square tooth type (or very worn) however the cam sprockets look like the round tooth (later) Type. [edit- With the wear on the other gears its hard to believe the oil pump sprocket is good. a flat edge along the gear teeth should show any wear. Its the cheapest gear I believe, so replacement may be a good idea even if it appears good. Besides, you have to take it off to replace the oil pump shaft seal. . One of those WYAI(while You're at it). moves.


Missmatched sprockets = bad

That water pump is done.

I would pressure wash the front of the motor before taking anything off. [edit-You said it was done]

There is a ton of old belt residue and oil that will be a mess unless you do a ton of cleaning before you even get started (Trust me its the only way).

I would go for a Porkentensioner and WP with a gates belt. Replace all the gears (Cam (x2), Oil pump, crank).

Wow.. I'm going outside and kiss my car because you're car is making my car look hawt.! (joking). Good luck!

karl ruiter

You can download the service manuals for free. It is all there.

Settin03

The work has been going slow due to family and work. Weekends have been filled with family obligations and weather challenges.
The spockets are all round. The oil sprocket is fine actually. I replaced the cam spockets (finally ) as well as the seals. The drivers seal was a PITA for some reason.
Here r some pics of my journey. Coming close to the end.

Have a question regarding the oil tensioner. The bolt that goes in the oil passage, it is the shortest bolt correct?

Landseer

Did you replace the list of seals or just the lip seals?
Because the lip seals are the least of your worries with leakage.

Good work. Way to save a car.

IIRC, all the threaded sections of bolts, when washers/covers are considered, will extend or protrude a uniform distance when measured from the back of the tensioner base. Same for water pump.

IIRC, the PET diagram shows the bolts with mm designations.

Do you have access to PET? The old PET's shipped with the special CD's Roger has should show it and are themselves very useful, even if not the newest.

We have a great saves thread here somewhere. Yours might should be entered. More pictures. I love it when somebody takes the time to clean up one of these old war horses. The one in my avatar was down for dead, now its reliable enough to be making latenight longdistance runs around the country. Screw the perfect cosmetics, these were made to run.