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Newbie with an 83 16v Need TB/WP change asap

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Old 10-20-2011, 10:01 PM
  #16  
risaac928
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Please post as many pics as you can on your progress and DIY tips
Old 10-20-2011, 10:16 PM
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James Bailey
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As Roger points out your cam gears are wornshould be replaced and need to be removed to do the cam seals. Some would also change the front crank and oil pump seals. You need bushings for the tensioner arm and a rubber boot. Time to inspect change radiator hoses, heater hoses, thermostat....get a radiator drain plug since they break easily and are cheap.
Old 10-20-2011, 10:21 PM
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Settin03
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Originally Posted by risaac928
Please post as many pics as you can on your progress and DIY tips
I will as I go along. Thanks.
Old 10-20-2011, 10:24 PM
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Settin03
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Originally Posted by James Bailey
As Roger points out your cam gears are wornshould be replaced and need to be removed to do the cam seals. Some would also change the front crank and oil pump seals. You need bushings for the tensioner arm and a rubber boot. Time to inspect change radiator hoses, heater hoses, thermostat....get a radiator drain plug since they break easily and are cheap.
I have the lower radiator hose and ordered the thermostat 82C. Where can I get the bushing and rubber boot? for a realistic price. I have seen the boot for about $40!! Anyone lMBR's located in the NEW YORK AREA?

Last edited by Settin03; 10-20-2011 at 10:25 PM. Reason: additional items
Old 10-20-2011, 10:45 PM
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robot808
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It is time to make friends with our friendly neighborhood parts suppliers. You have already met Roger. He is an incredible, plain and simple. We have the good fortune of having Roger, DR and Mark as great suppliers for nearly all of our needs. When you get a chance, check out the New Visitor thread stickied at the top of this forum. It has tons of great info.
Old 10-22-2011, 05:15 PM
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Settin03
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Unhappy Started!

Ok, I have gotten quite a few things off the front. I cannot see the marking for the 45 on the crankshaft. I see 1 white line on the crankshaft with no #' s associated with it. What value am I to assume it is if any? ( Any suggestions welcome here ) And the cam sprcket on the passenger side has 3 4 white lines opposite each other. I don't see the markins to line that with as well. Enjoy the pics
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:41 PM
  #22  
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waterpump is toast
Old 10-22-2011, 05:54 PM
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Settin03
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
waterpump is toast
YEP! It won't even budge. I removed what was left of the belt. Now trying to figure out the cam location all that stuff!
Old 10-22-2011, 05:55 PM
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SeanR
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Damn, after seeing that, I can't even think of a smart *** reply.

You will be replacing most everything on the front of the engine. Good luck.

ETA: Don't worry about doing it at 45 degrees, Put everything to Top Dead Center (TDC) and go that way. The cams will move but you can move them back in to position when it's time to run the belt.
Old 10-22-2011, 05:58 PM
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PorKen
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Originally Posted by Settin03
I cannot see the marking for the 45 on the crankshaft.
No 4|5 marking, pre-85. Just set it to 0|T.

Originally Posted by Settin03
How do I know the cams are aligned before I place the belt back on and how do I move them?
16V | 32V

Old 10-22-2011, 07:45 PM
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robot808
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Originally Posted by SeanR
You will be replacing most everything on the front of the engine. Good luck.
Sean, please tell me what you see that you can tell needs replacing and how you can tell. I ask because I have not done any of this work and would like to be able to recognize these issues.
TIA,

Last edited by robot808; 10-22-2011 at 09:20 PM.
Old 10-22-2011, 08:01 PM
  #27  
Settin03
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Originally Posted by SeanR
Damn, after seeing that, I can't even think of a smart *** reply.

You will be replacing most everything on the front of the engine. Good luck.

ETA: Don't worry about doing it at 45 degrees, Put everything to Top Dead Center (TDC) and go that way. The cams will move but you can move them back in to position when it's time to run the belt.
Thank you.
I will dissasemble it and clean it up. Hopefully tomorrow.
PorKen, thank you as well. I don't see those notches in the cams yet or on the rear housing. Hopefully when I clean It will show up. Will have to be careful not to clean off the white lines that are still there.

Last edited by Settin03; 10-22-2011 at 08:04 PM. Reason: Additional thanks.
Old 10-22-2011, 08:38 PM
  #28  
Glenn Evans
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Originally Posted by Settin03
Thank you.
I will dissasemble it and clean it up. Hopefully tomorrow.
PorKen, thank you as well. I don't see those notches in the cams yet or on the rear housing. Hopefully when I clean It will show up. Will have to be careful not to clean off the white lines that are still there.
In your first photo, the left hand side cam timing point on the engine is that projection opposite the white mark on the cam gear. (That is the left hand side of the car, NOT on your left as you look from the front.)

Last edited by Glenn Evans; 10-22-2011 at 08:39 PM. Reason: clarification of "left hand side"
Old 10-22-2011, 09:12 PM
  #29  
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Per Glenn, cylinders are 1 - 4 on passenger (right) side
5-8 on drivers (left) side.

4 is against firewall, pass side
8 is against firewall, driver side
Old 10-22-2011, 09:42 PM
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Settin03
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Originally Posted by Glenn Evans
In your first photo, the left hand side cam timing point on the engine is that projection opposite the white mark on the cam gear. (That is the left hand side of the car, NOT on your left as you look from the front.)
Ok, I think I am starting to undestand here. (Bear with Me)
1st the the TDC will be the crankshaft to that red point on the water pump. So I will open the distributor to see when the 1st cylinider will line up to determine TDC. When I turn it clockwise ( My own assumption- Tell me if I'm wrong)
Then that projection on the (L) cam gear will line up somewhere on the rear cam cover. Towards the top. The (R) cam gear does not appear to have any markings so I will have to look closely tomorrow when I dig in some more.

Originally Posted by Landseer
Per Glenn, cylinders are 1 - 4 on passenger (right) side
5-8 on drivers (left) side.

4 is against firewall, pass side
8 is against firewall, driver side
Is there another method to know how to line the cam gears if there is no markings?

Thank you both.


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