Failed attempt to check TB tension - need some pointers/help...
#1
Burning Brakes
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Hi guys,
So I've decided to check TB tension prior to going to Frenzy later in the week. I'm going by Kempf tool instructions, but did not get far before running into a problem:
Step 3: Carefully lift fan shroud to gain access to top oil cooler line at radiator. Loosen oil cooler line and push backward out of the way.
Step 4: Lift fan shroud at an angle until lower edge clears radiator...
I have a problem following these steps - fan shroud seems to be stuck. I can lift it maybe a couple of inches up, but then it won't move at all. I also can't figure where is the oil cooler line that I need to disconnect and push back. Picture that instructions refer to shows passenger side, but that's about all I can make out on it. I just couldn't figure out which line needs to be disconnected. any advise?
Also, when trying to figure out why fan shroud won't move (I figured I'll go ahead and try to remove it and see if there is a line or something in the way that step 3 refers to), I discovered following:
![](http://i052.radikal.ru/1109/b5/a5f0b617d12e.jpg)
It looks like a zip tie is holding lower radiator hose on the driver side to the fan shroud (you can see what I think if a fan connector on the right side of the picture). I kind of got an impression that if I cut it, I might be able to get the fan shroud out. Is it indeed what I think it is and should I go ahead and cut it?
Thanks!
So I've decided to check TB tension prior to going to Frenzy later in the week. I'm going by Kempf tool instructions, but did not get far before running into a problem:
Step 3: Carefully lift fan shroud to gain access to top oil cooler line at radiator. Loosen oil cooler line and push backward out of the way.
Step 4: Lift fan shroud at an angle until lower edge clears radiator...
I have a problem following these steps - fan shroud seems to be stuck. I can lift it maybe a couple of inches up, but then it won't move at all. I also can't figure where is the oil cooler line that I need to disconnect and push back. Picture that instructions refer to shows passenger side, but that's about all I can make out on it. I just couldn't figure out which line needs to be disconnected. any advise?
Also, when trying to figure out why fan shroud won't move (I figured I'll go ahead and try to remove it and see if there is a line or something in the way that step 3 refers to), I discovered following:
![](http://i052.radikal.ru/1109/b5/a5f0b617d12e.jpg)
It looks like a zip tie is holding lower radiator hose on the driver side to the fan shroud (you can see what I think if a fan connector on the right side of the picture). I kind of got an impression that if I cut it, I might be able to get the fan shroud out. Is it indeed what I think it is and should I go ahead and cut it?
Thanks!
#2
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You don't need to remove the fan shroud if one side of the top radiator hose is removed.
I remove the side on the engine. Radiator fluid will leak out so have something to catch it.
I then use a combination of screw driver, 8 mm socket or 8mm gear wrench to get the dist. caps off.
Check the coil leads while in there if original, passengers side seems to get more heat.
Good luck
I remove the side on the engine. Radiator fluid will leak out so have something to catch it.
I then use a combination of screw driver, 8 mm socket or 8mm gear wrench to get the dist. caps off.
Check the coil leads while in there if original, passengers side seems to get more heat.
Good luck
#3
Drifting
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You only need to remove the passenger side air intake tube, distributor cap, and timing belt cover to check the T/B tension.
There's no need to remove the top radiator hose or electric radiator fans. If you need to adjust the T/B tension, you may need to jack the front end and remove the belly pans (if installed).
There's no need to remove the top radiator hose or electric radiator fans. If you need to adjust the T/B tension, you may need to jack the front end and remove the belly pans (if installed).
#5
Burning Brakes
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I can't see how you guys do it without removing anything, it's literaly a hose on top of another hose with no space to get to distributror cap out...
#6
Captain Obvious
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An 8, 10 and maybe a 13mm socket hardly qualifies as an "appropriate" tools.
Having a couple of zip ties helps to keep some of these hose out of the way. Otherwise it's dead simple to check it.
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#7
Burning Brakes
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so... what is that mysterious oil cooler line that needs to be disconnected? I guess I'll just cut that zip tie - hopefully nothing will get caught in fan blades when I put it back together.
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#9
Nordschleife Master
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The cooler lines only need to loosened if your going to lift the shroud when you do a TB change. Unnecessary to consider for a TB tension check.
#10
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You do need that "zip tie". If it is the original one it is meant to be removeable/reusable. There should be a small tab on the part of the tie with the slot in it. If you bend the tab correctly you can then pull the tie back through the slot. Whatever you do be sure to replace it when you're done or else your rad. hose is likely to get perforated.
#11
Under the Lift
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Like I said, it takes some maneuvering. Also, I pull a couple of the smaller hoses up and tie wrap them temporarily to the crossbar to create more room.
#12
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Alexei: I remember the first time I tried, I couldn't get the fans out either; it may have been the zip tie. Some have reported not removing any hoses, but it will drive you nuts just trying to get a line of sight on the tension tool, etc. The more you can remove the easier it is. I remove the two smaller hoses that go into the water bridge and leave the two large rad hoses on unless it is time to flush coolant. Be sure the one off the coolant res is tied up or it will slowly drain more than what is in the res. Cut the zip and just replace it later. I have also pulled all the ignition wires off the distributor to make getting that out easier; check to see the cylinder numbers are on the distributor (should be imprinted on it) or mark the wires if you do this. There is an electrical connector on each fan, that must be disconnected. It takes some maneuvering to slip the support/frame for the fan motor past the rad hose, but it will come out.
[edit] I forgot on my car the cooler lines are not an issue. Others have addressed this.
[edit] I forgot on my car the cooler lines are not an issue. Others have addressed this.
Last edited by SteveG; 09-27-2011 at 11:53 AM.
#14
Under the Lift
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If you insist on taking the fans out, then you need to clip or open that tie wrap on the lower radiator hose and unfasten the top oil cooler line on the left which takes a 27mm counter-hold and 32mm open end wrenches. Only a tiny amount of oil should drip out unless you allow the line to fall down behind the shroud - just put a paper towel or baggy over the hose end and don't allow it to fall. Even then maneuvering the fan shroud out takes some persistence, especially with an automatic tranny due to the tranny cooler fittings on the right side. In that case, the fans will not come straight up. Tilting with the left side up and dropping the right side below the lower radiator shelf usually creates enough clearance. The PS reservoir will be in the way and needs to be loosened and allowed to hang down a ways. This allows the left side of the shroud to move back to clear the oil line fitting on the radiator. The bottom of the left side may get caught on the lower oil fitting - pushing it back allows it to clear that obstruction. Sometimes the shroud comes out easily, sometimes it gets jammed. You have to push the upper radiator hose back out of the way (if you don't remove it - I don't) and pull the air pump inlet hose back and out of the way. Remove the fan harness wires from their clips as you pull the shroud up. Put a towel on top of the intake and lay the fan shroud there out of the way. No need to unplug the fan harness from the fan motors, just from the wire clips.
As has been said, fan shroud removal is not required to check/adjust belt tension, but if you get the shroud out, you will have a lot more room to get the belt cover out and to get a socket on the crank bolt to turn the motor to TDC cyl 1 and to see and access the belt tensioner adjuster bolt. I've done it both ways. On 90+ cars the oil cooler lines do not go to the radiator and shroud removal is so easy that I will pull it out, but I leave it in on earlier cars and work around it.
As has been said, fan shroud removal is not required to check/adjust belt tension, but if you get the shroud out, you will have a lot more room to get the belt cover out and to get a socket on the crank bolt to turn the motor to TDC cyl 1 and to see and access the belt tensioner adjuster bolt. I've done it both ways. On 90+ cars the oil cooler lines do not go to the radiator and shroud removal is so easy that I will pull it out, but I leave it in on earlier cars and work around it.
#15
Burning Brakes
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Bill,
Do you happen to have pictures of the oil cooler line (or PET image)? I don't recall seeing one on the left side (passenger side, right?). There was one on the right side and it needed big size open end wrenches. but I think even then it was somewhat out of the way...
Thank You!
Alexei
Do you happen to have pictures of the oil cooler line (or PET image)? I don't recall seeing one on the left side (passenger side, right?). There was one on the right side and it needed big size open end wrenches. but I think even then it was somewhat out of the way...
Thank You!
Alexei