BigAl1

I'm planning for the hardware on my MS3X conversion, and looking for opinions on how to best mount the 36-1 trigger wheel at the front of the crank on my 1980 4.7 Euro S.
1. Do I mount it to the back side of the dampener, keeping the teeth and CKP sensor inside the belt cover? I'm not sure how the dampener is assembled, so want to be sure the 36-1 wheel is locked to the crank keyway, and not on the "floating" dampener weight ring.

2. Do I put the 36-1 wheel on the front of the AC pulley, then drill through the trigger wheel, AC pulley, and slightly into the dampener front shoulder, then pin these 3 layers together and trap the pin with the pulley stack and main washer/bolt?

My preference is #1 as it will be a very clean install - just not sure how the dampener is assembled.

BC

Originally, I had planned to weld it to the outer pulley - if you can picture the pull there is a much larger radius bend between the two pullies at the back. I had that machined down and made flat so that the 36-1 wheel could be sized to be pressed onto the pulley there.

Lizard928

Do not bother to pin it.

either weld one to the outer pulley, or make one to sandwich between the outer pulley, and the AC pulley.

then clock it to the VR sensor and tighten the crank bolt. It will not move.

Ducman82

is that for the sequential part of the MS? or are you just not doing the flywheel?

BC

36-1 can be used, I suppose, for SEQ, but mostly EDIS.

BigAl1

I'm sure it won't move with the clamp load from the crank bolt, but if the pulleys and 36-1 wheel were removed, it would have to be recalibrated during reassembly. So, I want to make sure the 36-1 wheel is keyed to the crank in a positive, unique way.
The 36-1 wheel will generate the crank trigger signal, and I'll make a single tooth window style wheel for the Left cam so sequential can be run.

Fabio421

I've got the same project on the back burner. My plan is to use a late model flywheel with the S4 timing gear. Then drill out the boss on the top and back of the block to mount the sensor. It all sounds doable but I haven't actually done it yet so YMMV.

Lizard928

Big Al,

this is true, but it is easy to get it in the same place, and not mess up timing.

atb

No worries Big Al - TDC, count 5 teeth, clamp her down.

BigAl1

Thanks guys. I'm going through the heads now on my bench, and mentally planning for the conversion work as the engine comes back together. I'm using a CKP from a Ford 4 cyl Zetec, same for CMP, temp sensors from GM, LS1 truck coils, 36-1 crank trigger, 1 tooth style cam trigger, GM TPS and IAC valve, and #24 Ford injectors. All will be working with MS3X.

Ducman82

ya, ill be keeping an eye on your work. im thinking of doing a MS conversion at some point in the next year... good luck!

wildwestsydney

I plan on getting EDIS going in the near future also. I have my 84 euro injected with MS now. I was planning on using the sandwich method for the toothed wheel. I agree that it would not be too big of a deal to maintain the timing if you take the wheel off for some reason. But it would also be nice to have it keyed someway to make reasembly mistake proof.

Sam