Broken fuel line (the big one) !
#1
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Well this time I really proved to myself that I need to go back to my room and close the door and beat my head against the wall. ![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
About take the Shark on a trip, I started to replace my 30 year old fuel lines.
All is well until I got the the two lines on the passenger side that drop down
near the headers. (MSDS) They were cracked and original. MUST replace before attempting a 12 hour drive in the summer heat! Everything went as planned
Rogers kit in hand, Dremel ready to cut ends, then...the nut on the end of the hard line coming out from the firewall is stuck, even after soaking it with bolt remover for hours would not loosen. Simple, harder tug and whamo! the line broke!
Easy fix...? Requires a new line from Porsche that comes from the tank , read tank removal...etc.
My summer trip is still on but the Porsche will remain silent. My Jetta does get better
mileage, but I'm really bummed. PTSD.
The reason people buy new cars is because they can't afford old ones!
vanster
'80 5sp
![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
About take the Shark on a trip, I started to replace my 30 year old fuel lines.
All is well until I got the the two lines on the passenger side that drop down
near the headers. (MSDS) They were cracked and original. MUST replace before attempting a 12 hour drive in the summer heat! Everything went as planned
Rogers kit in hand, Dremel ready to cut ends, then...the nut on the end of the hard line coming out from the firewall is stuck, even after soaking it with bolt remover for hours would not loosen. Simple, harder tug and whamo! the line broke!
Easy fix...? Requires a new line from Porsche that comes from the tank , read tank removal...etc.
My summer trip is still on but the Porsche will remain silent. My Jetta does get better
mileage, but I'm really bummed. PTSD.
The reason people buy new cars is because they can't afford old ones!
vanster
'80 5sp
#2
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The 944 replacement kits require cutting the hard lines and using a compression fitting to convert to rubber. On the better kits, the hardlines are cut back in where they pass through the fender well, instead of inside the engine compartment.
This is a "track only" fix because you should use only double flare fittings on fuel lines. Nobody really realizes this.
Double flaring can be done pretty easily, btw, with the right tool.
Then the double flared fitting can be mated to a coupler, to which rubber hose can be used properly.
Just investigate a bit before you settle on a solution, might be some alternatives.
This is a "track only" fix because you should use only double flare fittings on fuel lines. Nobody really realizes this.
Double flaring can be done pretty easily, btw, with the right tool.
Then the double flared fitting can be mated to a coupler, to which rubber hose can be used properly.
Just investigate a bit before you settle on a solution, might be some alternatives.
#3
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vanster, I would definitely check with a local hose and tubing place before ordering from Porsche. I use a local guy for all sorts of things like that. They seem to enjoy the challange and they save me tons of time and tons of $$.
#4
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On the older cars, if those things won't budge after the first or second try, I then cut the rubber fuel line getting as much of the fuel out as I can, then take the dremmel to it in situ. Leave the line open to atmosphere for a while (couple hours) then cut. Keep an extinguisher on hand because there will be sparks.
#5
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Well this time I really proved to myself that I need to go back to my room and close the door and beat my head against the wall. ![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
About take the Shark on a trip, I started to replace my 30 year old fuel lines.
All is well until I got the the two lines on the passenger side that drop down
near the headers. (MSDS) They were cracked and original. MUST replace before attempting a 12 hour drive in the summer heat! Everything went as planned
Rogers kit in hand, Dremel ready to cut ends, then...the nut on the end of the hard line coming out from the firewall is stuck, even after soaking it with bolt remover for hours would not loosen. Simple, harder tug and whamo! the line broke!
Easy fix...? Requires a new line from Porsche that comes from the tank , read tank removal...etc.
My summer trip is still on but the Porsche will remain silent. My Jetta does get better
mileage, but I'm really bummed. PTSD.
The reason people buy new cars is because they can't afford old ones!
vanster
'80 5sp
![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
About take the Shark on a trip, I started to replace my 30 year old fuel lines.
All is well until I got the the two lines on the passenger side that drop down
near the headers. (MSDS) They were cracked and original. MUST replace before attempting a 12 hour drive in the summer heat! Everything went as planned
Rogers kit in hand, Dremel ready to cut ends, then...the nut on the end of the hard line coming out from the firewall is stuck, even after soaking it with bolt remover for hours would not loosen. Simple, harder tug and whamo! the line broke!
Easy fix...? Requires a new line from Porsche that comes from the tank , read tank removal...etc.
My summer trip is still on but the Porsche will remain silent. My Jetta does get better
mileage, but I'm really bummed. PTSD.
The reason people buy new cars is because they can't afford old ones!
vanster
'80 5sp
Sorry man...
If you say you have to drop the tank, you must be referring to return that goes above the tank?
If I was in a pinch, I would cut-n-splice to tube, where it broke. A piece a hose, and a couple fuel clamps should get you by in the near term. But that only what I would do in a similar circumstance. YMMV.
#6
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Vanster,
Sorry to hear about the broken tubing, but you certainly averted a disaster by checking the rubber lines.
This won't help for this situation, but next time be sure to "counter-hold" the fitting when loosening or tightening a fitting. Tubing fittings always have a second "hex" which is part of the fitting itself. Put one wrench on that, and a second wrench on the movable nut, oriented so that squeezing the wrenches together will loosen the movable nut. This allows you to put force on the nut without stressing the tubing.
Also be sure to use a "flare wrench" on the nut. This is basically a havy-duty box-end wrench which is cut open on one side, to slip over the tubing. The advantage over an end-wrench is that it grips on four points of the nut, rather than just two-- with a much lower chance of "rounding" the points on the nut. An end-wrench is fine on the fitting itself, those are much harder.
Good luck!
Sorry to hear about the broken tubing, but you certainly averted a disaster by checking the rubber lines.
This won't help for this situation, but next time be sure to "counter-hold" the fitting when loosening or tightening a fitting. Tubing fittings always have a second "hex" which is part of the fitting itself. Put one wrench on that, and a second wrench on the movable nut, oriented so that squeezing the wrenches together will loosen the movable nut. This allows you to put force on the nut without stressing the tubing.
Also be sure to use a "flare wrench" on the nut. This is basically a havy-duty box-end wrench which is cut open on one side, to slip over the tubing. The advantage over an end-wrench is that it grips on four points of the nut, rather than just two-- with a much lower chance of "rounding" the points on the nut. An end-wrench is fine on the fitting itself, those are much harder.
Good luck!
#7
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#10
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I had a damaged line to the rear - decided to replace both hard lines (Obtainable!), but the return line would need to be cut, or drop the tank and the rear suspension to lace it through the same path. Went to Replace the high pressure hard line, but could not get the front end into place any way at all. In the end I cut the line, fitted the front into place, and joined with a compression fitting , no trouble in several years now. I though I would check the short return hose into the tank head unit - just pulled off the metal tube with no effort at all....replaced and retained with a good worm drive clip. The return line rubber section in the engine bay was NLA, but it looks absolutely fine - no cracks or abrasions at all. Replaced the high pressure hose .
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
#11
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I hate to admit this but when I broke the line thinking it would be an easy fix I had a flat bed tow it
to Chris Bauer in Oakland because he needed to add Freon anyway. I have a leak in the old system and this is one thing mere mortals cannot do. He would not do a quick fix, and he is correct that fuel lines are not something you short cut. He ordered a new hard line from Germany, and he will drop the tank and replace it. The hardest part is I know exactly what I did wrong and having to take my car to Chris was not in my plan. I left on my summer trip in my VW. I should get it back today. I will let everyone know
what this adventure cost. The lesson I learned was I don't try to do major repairs a day before a trip.
Take your time and do it right and ask questions as you go.
I think now I will go back to my Sunbeam Alpine 1725cc push rod to get my confidence back.
Van
to Chris Bauer in Oakland because he needed to add Freon anyway. I have a leak in the old system and this is one thing mere mortals cannot do. He would not do a quick fix, and he is correct that fuel lines are not something you short cut. He ordered a new hard line from Germany, and he will drop the tank and replace it. The hardest part is I know exactly what I did wrong and having to take my car to Chris was not in my plan. I left on my summer trip in my VW. I should get it back today. I will let everyone know
what this adventure cost. The lesson I learned was I don't try to do major repairs a day before a trip.
Take your time and do it right and ask questions as you go.
I think now I will go back to my Sunbeam Alpine 1725cc push rod to get my confidence back.
Van
#12
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