The Kraken - A Restoration & Modification Diary
07-15-2013, 08:55 PM
#121
Race Car
Not having yanked a radiator all the way out yet, I'm not fully following the height issue and your solution. Is it still on the rubber bushings? Did you reshape the lower mounting brackets?
07-15-2013, 09:42 PM
#122
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It's on the bushings now, but when it first when in, it was just slightly too far back, so one of the ridges was sitting on top of the rubber bushing. The reason was two-fold. First, the AC condensor bracket was possibly bent or pushed back a little. I've long suspected that my 928 was in a mild front end collision, as the lower part of the front bumper grills are broken. I think this confirms it. That was simply not allowing the radiator to be far enough forward. A few taps with a hammer solved that. Secondly, the clearances on the 928MS rad are smaller than the stock rad when it comes to going over those bushings. We folded the bushings out of the way, moved the rad down some, then folded the bushings back into place.
07-16-2013, 10:30 AM
#123
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Time to document, and make some decisions, about my current priorities. Advice welcome. Given that I'm aiming to build a car designed for track use but that's still streetable, here's where I'm at.
I left the AC in this time around; compressor is currently empty of refrigerant, as far as I know. I'm tempted to snip the drive belt, but equally tempted to try to get it working again. I probably need a new compressor, and I'd rather spend those funds elsewhere.
But where?! Options I'm looking at right now include:
Safety equipment for the track (a Devek 1/2 cage/harness bar is available to me locally, as well as some Recaro SRDs and harnesses from another Rennlister)
OB Oil pan spacer (helps with high RPM oiling issues); existing pan gasket has a very slow leak. Also considering adding an external oil cooler.
Replace motor mounts (passenger side is now smooshed so this will happen soon)
New track tires (fronts are pretty fresh, so I'm thinking of matching them with new rears)
X-pipe (the current exhaust is a little rusty thanks to briefly living in Chicago with the prior owner, right at the RMB; it should also probably be replaced; I'm patching it for now)
Colin's cams ($$$$ but so worth it from what I've been told)
Sharktuning (something I'm hoping to be able to offer as a service locally/regionally once I figure out how to use it)
I've got 42lb injectors in hand but I've held off installing them due to the lack of access to a Sharktuner. My brother's car needs injectors so this might happen sooner than later.
Reinstall front spoiler/repair front bumper spoiler mounts.
Rear-mount turbo, or a Victor Rotrex Kit.
I'm thinking the top 4 are priorities and will happen in the next couple of months; definitely before Watkins Glen. I'll aim do the rest over the winter. I'd love to do the sharktuning sooner than later, but that's also $$$$. I'd also like to hold off on Sharktuning until after I add a power-adder, so I'm torn there as well.
I left the AC in this time around; compressor is currently empty of refrigerant, as far as I know. I'm tempted to snip the drive belt, but equally tempted to try to get it working again. I probably need a new compressor, and I'd rather spend those funds elsewhere.
But where?! Options I'm looking at right now include:
Safety equipment for the track (a Devek 1/2 cage/harness bar is available to me locally, as well as some Recaro SRDs and harnesses from another Rennlister)
OB Oil pan spacer (helps with high RPM oiling issues); existing pan gasket has a very slow leak. Also considering adding an external oil cooler.
Replace motor mounts (passenger side is now smooshed so this will happen soon)
New track tires (fronts are pretty fresh, so I'm thinking of matching them with new rears)
X-pipe (the current exhaust is a little rusty thanks to briefly living in Chicago with the prior owner, right at the RMB; it should also probably be replaced; I'm patching it for now)
Colin's cams ($$$$ but so worth it from what I've been told)
Sharktuning (something I'm hoping to be able to offer as a service locally/regionally once I figure out how to use it)
I've got 42lb injectors in hand but I've held off installing them due to the lack of access to a Sharktuner. My brother's car needs injectors so this might happen sooner than later.
Reinstall front spoiler/repair front bumper spoiler mounts.
Rear-mount turbo, or a Victor Rotrex Kit.
I'm thinking the top 4 are priorities and will happen in the next couple of months; definitely before Watkins Glen. I'll aim do the rest over the winter. I'd love to do the sharktuning sooner than later, but that's also $$$$. I'd also like to hold off on Sharktuning until after I add a power-adder, so I'm torn there as well.
07-16-2013, 10:41 AM
#124
Rennlist Member
Kevin Lacy (KLVA on RL) is working on a similar setup to your's: track/street car. Might be worth making contact.
I didn't see this in your priority list, so I assume you are all set on fire extinguisher safety and accessibility.
Your first 4 priorities read well. Along w/the OB pickup and pan space (ala Doc Brown), I'd suggest an oil filler baffle or separator (may have already been discussed/installed?)
Motor mounts, consider solid billet by 928 Motorsports. If you haven't done Delrin PS rack mounts, consider that too.
The latter priorities fall in-line w/ more power, so first checking in on safety and reliability makes sense to me.
You're hooked... get your Costanza wallet ready!
I didn't see this in your priority list, so I assume you are all set on fire extinguisher safety and accessibility.
Your first 4 priorities read well. Along w/the OB pickup and pan space (ala Doc Brown), I'd suggest an oil filler baffle or separator (may have already been discussed/installed?)
Motor mounts, consider solid billet by 928 Motorsports. If you haven't done Delrin PS rack mounts, consider that too.
The latter priorities fall in-line w/ more power, so first checking in on safety and reliability makes sense to me.
You're hooked... get your Costanza wallet ready!
07-16-2013, 10:49 AM
#125
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reply, Jim. I need to talk to the Hoser Diplomat?!
I had seen the fire extinguisher thread; have one that I keep in the car but it's not properly mounted. I should probably pick up one of your units. I'll email you.
Thank you, also for the suggestions about the oiling. I've definitely got more research to do there.
Motor mounts... I have some solids in hand. If my brother's needs MMs (probably does), I'll get the billets from 928MS. Giving Carl lots of $$$$ lately! That Costanza wallet has definitely been cracked open for a while now.
I had seen the fire extinguisher thread; have one that I keep in the car but it's not properly mounted. I should probably pick up one of your units. I'll email you.
Thank you, also for the suggestions about the oiling. I've definitely got more research to do there.
Motor mounts... I have some solids in hand. If my brother's needs MMs (probably does), I'll get the billets from 928MS. Giving Carl lots of $$$$ lately! That Costanza wallet has definitely been cracked open for a while now.
07-16-2013, 12:30 PM
#127
Developer
Not having yanked a radiator all the way out yet, I'm not fully following the height issue and your solution. Is it still on the rubber bushings? Did you reshape the lower mounting brackets?
Let me stress this is not common, but we do encounter the occasional car with the radiator mounts mounted higher once in a while, owing tot he shorter radiator it had.
The solution for these cars is to remove the rubber donut lower radiator mount and cut it in half and put it back in. Then the rad sits lower, and the hood closes.
07-30-2013, 10:51 PM
#128
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
7/30 update
Reinstalled the 19s since the Carrera IIIs need new track rubber. Discovered an odd wear pattern on the fronts. A groove was being worn in the inner shoulder. No idea what it's from. Present on both tires.
Repaired an exhaust leak in the RMB, but only temporarily. I need a new one soon.
Fixed the Bubba Gump lip. Prior owner had cracked it. Curious to see how well the zip ties hold up before reinstalling the spoiler.
Lastly tried to pull the tow hook cover and managed to snap off the tool inside it. Not sure what to do about that!
Reinstalled the 19s since the Carrera IIIs need new track rubber. Discovered an odd wear pattern on the fronts. A groove was being worn in the inner shoulder. No idea what it's from. Present on both tires.
Repaired an exhaust leak in the RMB, but only temporarily. I need a new one soon.
Fixed the Bubba Gump lip. Prior owner had cracked it. Curious to see how well the zip ties hold up before reinstalling the spoiler.
Lastly tried to pull the tow hook cover and managed to snap off the tool inside it. Not sure what to do about that!
08-24-2013, 11:07 PM
#132
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
8/24/13 Update
Goals for the day: install 928 Motorsports Oil Pan Spacer Kit & Mini Starter (with special new bell housing), new Motor Mounts, Devek Cage, Corbeau Seats, G-Force Harnesses, Change Transmission Gear Oil, Install X-pipe
Way too ambitious!
Wrenched at Viking Automotive, and got to hear my brother's 928 run. Sounds awesome! He's just waiting on a pile of parts from out west before he can get it on the road.
Dropping the oil pan took quite a while, but putting it back together was much easier. I still have no idea how some of you guys do this sort of thing without a lift and on your backs, and by yourselves for that matter. No chance in hell I could have done this by myself.
The old motor mounts were totally kaput, more so than I realized.
The oil pan spacer kit is very nice, as are the instructions Carl provides (other than the first instruction: "remove oil pan").
The mini-starter and custom mount, however, proved too big a challenge to complete tonight. The stock starter mount prevents the new bell housing from fitting, so apparently it has to come off. There's no instructions I could find for installing it, so I'm waiting to hear back from Carl about what to do. I found several threads about installing this same starter, but whenever anyone asked if it would work with the pan spacer kit (which it must!) no one answered how to fit it all together. I'm guessing the stock mount has to come off, which is easier said than done. Can that be removed without removing the clutch assembly?
The rest of the stuff will have to wait. The exhaust would have been easy, except what's on there now is too rusty to pull apart without destroying it. I'll also need to get a WB02 sensor for the second bung on the X-pipe. My stock 02 sensor is rusted in place as well.
Not the best wrenching day, considering it's one of the few times I've not been able to drive the car home at the end of the day, but we made some good progress. Hoping to hear from Carl about the starter mount steps.
Goals for the day: install 928 Motorsports Oil Pan Spacer Kit & Mini Starter (with special new bell housing), new Motor Mounts, Devek Cage, Corbeau Seats, G-Force Harnesses, Change Transmission Gear Oil, Install X-pipe
Way too ambitious!
Wrenched at Viking Automotive, and got to hear my brother's 928 run. Sounds awesome! He's just waiting on a pile of parts from out west before he can get it on the road.
Dropping the oil pan took quite a while, but putting it back together was much easier. I still have no idea how some of you guys do this sort of thing without a lift and on your backs, and by yourselves for that matter. No chance in hell I could have done this by myself.
The old motor mounts were totally kaput, more so than I realized.
The oil pan spacer kit is very nice, as are the instructions Carl provides (other than the first instruction: "remove oil pan").
The mini-starter and custom mount, however, proved too big a challenge to complete tonight. The stock starter mount prevents the new bell housing from fitting, so apparently it has to come off. There's no instructions I could find for installing it, so I'm waiting to hear back from Carl about what to do. I found several threads about installing this same starter, but whenever anyone asked if it would work with the pan spacer kit (which it must!) no one answered how to fit it all together. I'm guessing the stock mount has to come off, which is easier said than done. Can that be removed without removing the clutch assembly?
The rest of the stuff will have to wait. The exhaust would have been easy, except what's on there now is too rusty to pull apart without destroying it. I'll also need to get a WB02 sensor for the second bung on the X-pipe. My stock 02 sensor is rusted in place as well.
Not the best wrenching day, considering it's one of the few times I've not been able to drive the car home at the end of the day, but we made some good progress. Hoping to hear from Carl about the starter mount steps.
08-24-2013, 11:22 PM
#133
It was a much busier day in the shop (customer-wise) than I had anticipated, but the work on the Kraken went quite well right up until we hit the brick wall with mounting the mini starter and different lower bellhousing. It has a Porsche 928 part number cast into it, so I am thinking it is from an early 928?
Does anybody know if the two bolts for the stock S4 starter bracket are short enough to come out without removing the clutch and flywheel?
Also, will there be room above the mini starter for the hard clutch line to go between the starter and now lower oil pan? Can the stock mounting bracket for the clutch line still be used?
Does anybody know if the two bolts for the stock S4 starter bracket are short enough to come out without removing the clutch and flywheel?
Also, will there be room above the mini starter for the hard clutch line to go between the starter and now lower oil pan? Can the stock mounting bracket for the clutch line still be used?
08-26-2013, 12:33 PM
#135
Developer
It's a shame that the fasteners for the 1988-95 cast starter mount are behind the flywheel, but that's the way they did it. They could have designed it differently.....
That makes removing the heavy starter mount a remove clutch and flywheel thing. Ugh.
Is it worth replacing the heavy starter mount with the lightweight starter mount when you don't need to do any clutch work otherwise? I doubt it.
Most of our customers do this while they are servicing the clutch and they are in there anyway.
Tip: you can use the mini-starter and the oil pan spacer kit together without the lightweight starter mount until such time you get a chance to install it. You will find, because you have spaced the oil pan down, that the oil pan is close to the copper starter lug. To prevent arcing, you can:
1) shorten the copper lug to just the height needed after the wires and the nut are attached to it.
2) apply a rubber mat to the oil pan right above the starter lug, or a rubber cap over the lug *
3) rotate the starter over (so the copper wiring lug points down, not up).
* a battery post cap for a top-post battery works well. Available at most auto part stores.
That makes removing the heavy starter mount a remove clutch and flywheel thing. Ugh.
Is it worth replacing the heavy starter mount with the lightweight starter mount when you don't need to do any clutch work otherwise? I doubt it.
Most of our customers do this while they are servicing the clutch and they are in there anyway.
Tip: you can use the mini-starter and the oil pan spacer kit together without the lightweight starter mount until such time you get a chance to install it. You will find, because you have spaced the oil pan down, that the oil pan is close to the copper starter lug. To prevent arcing, you can:
1) shorten the copper lug to just the height needed after the wires and the nut are attached to it.
2) apply a rubber mat to the oil pan right above the starter lug, or a rubber cap over the lug *
3) rotate the starter over (so the copper wiring lug points down, not up).
* a battery post cap for a top-post battery works well. Available at most auto part stores.