The Kraken - A Restoration & Modification Diary
08-26-2013, 12:47 PM
#136
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks (again!) for the response Carl. 
I think we'll go with the stock mount, at least for now. My clutch is about brand new. Bad timing, I suppose. Still curious about how to reach that upper mounting bolt, though, on the starter. Mighty tight up there with the oil pan dropped down so much lower than before.
I think we'll go with the stock mount, at least for now. My clutch is about brand new. Bad timing, I suppose. Still curious about how to reach that upper mounting bolt, though, on the starter. Mighty tight up there with the oil pan dropped down so much lower than before.
08-26-2013, 01:03 PM
#137
Developer
It is tight. If you change from hex-headed fastener to allen-socket headed fastener, you can use a allen-socket on a 10" 3/8" drive extension and snake it in there.
When using the lightweight starter mount - we never remove the starter from the lower bell housing any more. You just remove the lower bell housing with the starter attached and set it aside. Makes things easy. No need to even take the wiring off of it.
When using the lightweight starter mount - we never remove the starter from the lower bell housing any more. You just remove the lower bell housing with the starter attached and set it aside. Makes things easy. No need to even take the wiring off of it.
08-26-2013, 01:05 PM
#138
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Also curious about how tight it is for the clutch line and the bracket that attaches to the oil pan. Any modifications needed for that bracket?
08-26-2013, 05:27 PM
#140
I will try all of this tomorrow. I swear there isn't room above the starter (below the spaced pan) to get anything in there to put that top bolt in, let alone the clutch slave line and its bracket that bolts to the pan studs. We shall see.
08-26-2013, 09:54 PM
#141
Rennlist Member
You asked about priorities in an earlier post. Didn't see it until today. It is my experience that for track driving, installing Recaro SRD seats with harness is the single BEST modification I made in my '89.
The ability to 'just drive' instead of 'hanging on' in the higher G corners makes a world of difference.
I have an acquaintance who drove his 928 on track for many years who is a Physics Prof at Penn State. He always maintained that a roll bar in a 928 is useless, as the chassis is so stiff, and the A, B, and C pillars are so strong that a roll bar only 'raises the center of gravity'! Many may remember the movie that attempted to crush a 928 by running a monster truck over the top - it failed until they essentially cut through the B pillars to allow a collapse when the truck drove over it.
Maybe see you in October at the Glen with Niagara?
Cheers,
Gary Knox
The ability to 'just drive' instead of 'hanging on' in the higher G corners makes a world of difference.
I have an acquaintance who drove his 928 on track for many years who is a Physics Prof at Penn State. He always maintained that a roll bar in a 928 is useless, as the chassis is so stiff, and the A, B, and C pillars are so strong that a roll bar only 'raises the center of gravity'! Many may remember the movie that attempted to crush a 928 by running a monster truck over the top - it failed until they essentially cut through the B pillars to allow a collapse when the truck drove over it.
Maybe see you in October at the Glen with Niagara?
Cheers,
Gary Knox
08-26-2013, 11:19 PM
#142
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hey Gary! Yup, all signed up for the Glen in October. I've got Corbeaus ready to go in (not driving the car to the track anymore, either) as well as harnesses. Would have liked 6 pointers but the budget demanded 5s for now. But mechanicals are coming first, as you can see! Thanks for the advice, and looking forward to seeing you again soon.
08-27-2013, 11:35 AM
#143
Developer
I have an acquaintance who drove his 928 on track for many years who is a Physics Prof at Penn State. He always maintained that a roll bar in a 928 is useless, as the chassis is so stiff, and the A, B, and C pillars are so strong that a roll bar only 'raises the center of gravity'! Many may remember the movie that attempted to crush a 928 by running a monster truck over the top - it failed until they essentially cut through the B pillars to allow a collapse when the truck drove over it.
See WSM page 10.2 Porsche does not want you to remove the engine strut brace unless all 4 tires are on the ground because it twists so much. Check it yourself: unbolt one end of your strut bar, jack up one front corner, now try to re-attach the bar and see how much the frame has twisted.
Put the car back down on the ground and bounce it once or twice and you will be able to get that bar connected again no problem. Just don't make a habit of lifting the car with the strut brace not in place.
08-31-2013, 07:51 AM
#144
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
8/30 Update - starter completed and new full exhaust installed. Oil changed (BG 20w-50 synthetic). Brake fluid and transaxle fluid also changed.
Installing the starter was a total PITA but we got it done. I spent 2 hours on Wednesday carefully grinding away part of the oil pan to allow the top starter bolt to reach the mount. I also ground down the bolt head dramatically, which was no problem once we added a washer.
The starter hangs low because it had to be clocked to fit. But it's not lower than the sway bar or alternator. No idea why this starter doesn't come with its own install instructions.
Had to install an entirely new exhaust because 1) I picked up a Dave Lomas/Ott X and 2) the existing exhaust was rusty as all get out to the point that I couldn't take it apart without destroying it. I was hoping to remove the cats but keep what was there (a custom job done under prior ownership; two glasspacks and an RMB. Unfortunately made from aluminized steel). But that was just not possible. So, I picked up the rest of the Lomas exhaust, which is stainless and absolutely gorgeous. And definitely not cheap! And once again... No install instructions that I could find! It's exhaust so it can't be that bad right?! 2.5 hours later...
The system is indeed beautiful and fits like a glove. The X came with large clamps that allow you to mate the factory back system to the X. These clamps are NOT used with the full Lomas exhaust. The pipes are all sliced so that one fits over another, but only in the proper order. And each piece is labeled D for driver, P for passenger, and then numbered from 1-4 respectively. My biggest issue was that my existing system was not factory, so all of the hangers were gone. Fortunately my brother's car served as a donor for these bits. I plan to post a separate install guide for this awesome product. I will also post pics and sound clip of it once my phone/home Internet improves (not sure what's up with it right now!). It sounds spectacular.
And if you don't have an X pipe on your car, this should be your next purchase. It's hard for me to pinpoint the gains I experienced from it alone since 1) I did the full system and 2) what I had after the cats before was actually good, other than the rust issue. I can say that the power band has shifted much lower. Torque comes on at about 2k rpms instead of 3 and every gear is more alive. From the seat of the pants, I'd say it was a good 30hp increase.
The sound of this system (no cats) is pretty amazing as well. While I loved my old sound, this has a deeper rumble. Sounds more like American muscle. With the two mids and a rear muffler (in the sportier direction) the volume level is about the same as what I had before. Both were likely louder than what someone driving their 928 as a DD would want, but those folks would also probably keep the cats. Since this is quickly becoming a track car, I wasn't concerned about that.
As far as the fluid changes, my brother swears by BG products. So, I'm trying out their synthetic 20w-50 as well as their transaxle and brake fluid. My synchros appear to appreciate the fluid change for sure. Time will tell on the other two.
Off to the Baltimore Grand Prix to hopefully see a Porsche secure its third straight victory here!
Installing the starter was a total PITA but we got it done. I spent 2 hours on Wednesday carefully grinding away part of the oil pan to allow the top starter bolt to reach the mount. I also ground down the bolt head dramatically, which was no problem once we added a washer.
The starter hangs low because it had to be clocked to fit. But it's not lower than the sway bar or alternator. No idea why this starter doesn't come with its own install instructions.
Had to install an entirely new exhaust because 1) I picked up a Dave Lomas/Ott X and 2) the existing exhaust was rusty as all get out to the point that I couldn't take it apart without destroying it. I was hoping to remove the cats but keep what was there (a custom job done under prior ownership; two glasspacks and an RMB. Unfortunately made from aluminized steel). But that was just not possible. So, I picked up the rest of the Lomas exhaust, which is stainless and absolutely gorgeous. And definitely not cheap! And once again... No install instructions that I could find! It's exhaust so it can't be that bad right?! 2.5 hours later...
The system is indeed beautiful and fits like a glove. The X came with large clamps that allow you to mate the factory back system to the X. These clamps are NOT used with the full Lomas exhaust. The pipes are all sliced so that one fits over another, but only in the proper order. And each piece is labeled D for driver, P for passenger, and then numbered from 1-4 respectively. My biggest issue was that my existing system was not factory, so all of the hangers were gone. Fortunately my brother's car served as a donor for these bits. I plan to post a separate install guide for this awesome product. I will also post pics and sound clip of it once my phone/home Internet improves (not sure what's up with it right now!). It sounds spectacular.
And if you don't have an X pipe on your car, this should be your next purchase. It's hard for me to pinpoint the gains I experienced from it alone since 1) I did the full system and 2) what I had after the cats before was actually good, other than the rust issue. I can say that the power band has shifted much lower. Torque comes on at about 2k rpms instead of 3 and every gear is more alive. From the seat of the pants, I'd say it was a good 30hp increase.
The sound of this system (no cats) is pretty amazing as well. While I loved my old sound, this has a deeper rumble. Sounds more like American muscle. With the two mids and a rear muffler (in the sportier direction) the volume level is about the same as what I had before. Both were likely louder than what someone driving their 928 as a DD would want, but those folks would also probably keep the cats. Since this is quickly becoming a track car, I wasn't concerned about that.
As far as the fluid changes, my brother swears by BG products. So, I'm trying out their synthetic 20w-50 as well as their transaxle and brake fluid. My synchros appear to appreciate the fluid change for sure. Time will tell on the other two.
Off to the Baltimore Grand Prix to hopefully see a Porsche secure its third straight victory here!
