77tony

What's the approx cost comparison of the PKlamp vs the Constantine Clamp-installed ? T

jeff spahn

IIRC I paid something like $50 for the PKlamp. The Super Clamp is around $330. Installation on the PKlamp should basically be counted as free because you do it yourself when you check the endplay on your crank. The Super Clamp is whatever it costs you to R&R the Torque Tube. Prolly several hundred or more. I do it myself so I can't tell you the cost.

Bill Ball

Yes, I had some movement, less than 0.5mm, in the PKlamp after about 14K miles. This compares with 2-3 MM I used to see every time I checked the flexplate prior to installing the PKlamp. At that time I did a routine crank endplay check (still unchanged since I started checking 6 or 7 years ago) and reset the clamps. I just checked today after 9,250 miles since the reset, and the PKlamp showed no movement.

FredR

As I have said on several occasions both these devices are positive contributors to 32V 928 automatic preservation. However, I remain a cheap skate mostly through circumstance and when I lost my late S4 some 6 years ago the impact was such that the drive shaft was bent slightly at the front taper but the loctited flex plate remained intact. I think that says it all really.

I also agree with Roger's comment- it was easy to get the flex plate off.

Regards

Fred R
Loctite addict No2 in the world thanks to Earl G.

brianrheffron

On the subject of fixing the flexplate using Loctite what is the exact method.
Is the red Loctite sufficiently fluid to flow into the splines or do you have to
remove the clamp to flexplate bolts and work the clamp back and forth on
the splines to spread the Loctite?

FredR

The loctite we used originally was grade 290, I later used 270 on the basis of what was available over here at the time.

The key elements of the procedure are:
1. Cleanliness- we used carb cleaner type spray to degrease thoroughly.
2. Capillary action draws the loctite into the splines but we manipulated the flex plate hub back and forth applying from both sides of the hub until the assembly looked wetted.
3. The pinch bolt is fully tightened [but not loctited] and the entire assembly is left "as is" for 24 hours before starting the engine.

Quite simple really

Regards

Fred R

Dave Mullins

If anyone has a pklamp for sale let me know. Thanks!

Black Sea RD

Since this came up we have the 928 Super Clamp on sale for $299.00 each.

This is the lowest price they have ever been. Limited time offer.

Cheers,

Gary Knox

I believe Earl Gillstrom was the first to do the loctite 'fix' for the 928 flex plate connection. He did it on my '88 automatic that I was going to be using for both street and track about 12 years ago. There was never any movement up through the final check (about 3 years of driving, 20 or so track days - the car was totaled in a crash!!).

Earl used green loctite - did the thorough cleaning, clamping then 24 hours before starting the engine. Heat was used to remove the bond when the engine was pulled, and car parted out.

I have not used loctite on the GTS, but have the PKlamp. Again, no movement, but only street/highway driving with this car. If I were doing a lot of 'hard' driving, I'd either use both loctite and PKlamp or the SuperClamp from Constantine.

Gary-

MGW-Fla

I have one brand new in the package that I bought for our '91 about 15 mos ago; but then the car collector made me an offer I couldn't refuse for the car. Don't think the klamp ever even made it out of the package, much less on the car. I already have one on my '85. Forgot I even had it until last month when I saw it in my 928 stuff in a tool cabinet. Don't know what they go for now, but pm me an offer I can't refuse for the Pklamp, and it'll be heading your way.

Mike B

Great price for a fantastic, well engineered product!

69gaugeman

This. The locktite melts at something like 385 degrees. small propane torch will remove it when necessary. Or if you are a DIY type, just release every 3 - 6 months.

Chalkboss

Constantine, I have on of your clamps on my TT. I have owned the car for a year and never looked at it- it was on the car when I acquired it. Should I get under there and do a check of the clamp? What do you recommend? Also, about two thousand miles after a TT refurb and clamp install the car developed a rattle at idle only. In the TC area- could this be related to the TT repairs? Putting more strain on the rear flex plate since I think it is a loose rivet issue? Just curious.

Thanks

mdkelly1

Recently had the torque converter out to replace the seal which was leaking when I bought the car sixteen years ago. Only a couple of drops now and then over the years, but lately it would leave a small puddle so it was time to fix it properly.

While the torque converter was out, decided to replace the torque tube, drive shaft, and TT bearings with a complete set (powder-coated torque tube, new drive shaft, and Super Bearings) from Constantine. High quality products!

Added a Super Clamp to replace the stock pinch-bolt and P-Klamp I had on there.

Great door-to-door service from Constantine.

Black Sea RD

We always recommend doing a visual check with a small straight edge at every oil change. We strongly believe a flat front flex plate is vital for a healthy 928 automatic engine and this interval should be kept for any possible changes.

The addition of a Super Clamp and/or the rebuild of the TT with our Super Bearings doesn't put any more strain on the drive line.

We would get under the car and try to ascertain from where the noise is really coming from. You might also want to check with the records to see what else might have been done while they were doing the TT R&R. Loose rivets of the rear flex plate is surely one cause of a rattle from the TC area.

And don't forget to check the rear pinch bolt, just in case.

HTH,