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To get better AC performance, I changed the vacuum configuration on the heater valve to prevent the valve to open every time the engine is stopped and the heater core soaked with hot coolant.
Now when the car is started after a short stop, the AC temperature is as cold as it was when the engine was first started.
This is because in this configuration, the heater valve is kept close for a longer time (read few hours at least) after the engine is turn off.
This prevent the heater core to get soaked with hot coolant.
Before this modification, the AC was not as cold after a stop as when first started.
I'll need to try it better but it looks to work as described!
Now when the car is started after a short stop, the AC temperature is as cold as it was when the engine was first started.
This is because in this configuration, the heater valve is kept close for a longer time (read few hours at least) after the engine is turn off.
This prevent the heater core to get soaked with hot coolant.
Before this modification, the AC was not as cold after a stop as when first started.
I'll need to try it better but it looks to work as described!
I thought that was the purpose of the comb flap was, to route AC air away from the heater core, no?
Meanwhile I need to think about this. There should be a way to build a pneumatic "relay" so that the valve is default closed all the time (connected to the vacuum reservoir) unless the vacuum line from the AC control opens if and only if the key is on.
In terms of getting something done, I spent the day getting the defroster foot-well solenoid diaphragm replaced. Did a good write-up on it, the secret is to use your feeler gauges to hold the clips open.... Next up will be the comb flap, then eventually the defroster flap.
Thanks Bertrand.
Your salutations are always nice to see.
After going through the algorithmic steps of diagnosing/repairing loss of interior lights on opening of BOTH doors, replaced the relay from Roger today and all is well. I initially suspected relay for on hatch opening the lights worked normally. Removed both door cards and checked wiring to lights. Removed both door switches, checking wires and grounding. Lot of work for a little thing. While there Deoxited the CE board and attached labels to all the relays. https://members.rennlist.com/waterco...%201987-88.jpg
Spent most of the weekend piddling with the shark, it's a DD, so I try to do stuff as time alows.
So, today I made time to do a little polishing.
I took it from a 10 footer to about a 8 footer.
After replacing tie rods, I noticed a change in the steering wheel position when going straight despite trying to keep the new tie rods the same length. I got out my string stands, made measurements, did the calculations, found toe-out, and lengthened the right rod 0.055 inches. Then I shortened the other 0.070 since the wheel needed to go the other way (are you reading this carefully?) Test drive showed I did something wrong ... damn. Then doh! Brought the car back, and yes - lengthened the left rod 0.140 inches, and got things straightened out very nicely. Ready for Frenzy.
Bertrand, I have my vacuum lines rearranged like yours, but mainly because the central HVAC is wonky. On the list for this winter, but if this were electrical, I’d get an NC valve and put in a reversing relay to keep hot water where it belonged.
I saved mine from the scrapper around a month ago and finally got the signed title today, so work can now begin!
1978, black on black, 5 speed, and 16" telephone wheels. 60,951 miles.
Definitely needs some attention, as it was left outside for most of the last ten years, but is in surprisingly good shape for having been left out.
It also comes with a spare '80 or '81 engine from the owner's prior car, that was t-boned before this one was purchased.
First stop is going to be a self help car wash stall, to get the most and leaf litter off of the car...
07-19-2018, 07:09 PM
