ubercooper

I have searched these topics and came up pretty much empty. Your help in figuring this **** out would be greatly appreciated.

1. Steering lock removal- The interior is pretty much stripped (no wheel/dash) so this hopefully shouldn't be too difficult. No need for this on a track car besides to causing a horrible crash and am not using the ignition cylinder anyway.

2. Push button start- Is this a fairly straight through thing or will I be consumed in Porsche pasta? This may not be worth it in the slightest but just curious since Im only running a fuel pump/ ignition system and no FI anymore.

Thanks for the help

-Seb

Mongo

In regard to the push-button start... I wouldn't recommend it.

Managed to catch a forum where a guy in a Honda Civic wired a push-button start up. It worked good for a while until the switch stuck and completely burned out the starter as it kept cranking while the engine was running.

Today, there are a lot of push-buttons that are aftermarket. Quality Control is irrelevant in the construction of these 90% of the time.

jleidel

...being the nerd that I am, I would build one as opposed to buying one. Either use a hard contact switch [like a spring loaded toggle switch] or build a small circuit board with a timing delay circuit. If the starter is engaged for more than a few seconds, the delay circuit breaks the ignition request.

Brett928S2

Hi

Not exactly push button start, but I have remote starting through my fancy Clifford alarm system...

Works perfectly as well, so you do not have to use the key or ignition barrel...

All the best Brett

mark kibort

anyone know an easy way to disable the ingnition lock. I still have one. was able to fake the officials out one time with a temp fix, but it came loose and engaged the lock again. (used the screw in the lock area, that was longer and it pressed on the locking mechanism to disable it. it lasted a few months then came loose)

ubercooper

ah crap, if Kibort is stumped I might be screwed

ubercooper

bump?

Podguy

Mark,

The lock is really a sliding bolt. Once the ignition cylinder is out there is an end cap on the column part. There is a knock out plug. Remove the plug and you can remove the bolt. You might want to remove the cam that operates the bolt too.

As far as a push button start. Use a relay. One push activates the relay and starts the car. A second push turns off the relay and the engine. You will need to find the signal for when the car is running to switch off the starter relay and not the ignition relay. I know there is a signal for this just not sure on which model how to use it.

There are several places selling nice looking start buttons that will fit into the ignition switch

If you want security you can use the dead man switch in any alarm system. You can also get a time delay relay to prevent the starter from cranking too long.

Brett928S2

Hi

On my Clifford remote start , it cranks the engine 3 times then waits for 20 seconds then cranks again (usually it starts first time though)

All the best Brett

ubercooper

Is this the cap? Because it is not going to come off without a serious fight.

Ive removed everything else possible from the ignition cylinder but it still locks when turned.

Benton

I have done both of these things on my race car. Both are relatively easy. You are on the right track with the ignition lock--you either have to do some banging or some cutting, as there is no easy way to remove it. I can elaborate tomorrow... gotta head home for dinner and do some housekeeping. Shoot me an email if I forget to respond!

Aspkiller

Disabling the steering wheel lock is required by NASA and SCCA (and others), when racing. Often overlooked during annual tech.

Push button start, using a quality part, is much faster on restarts after a stall, should such an unfortunate thing ever happen to a racer.

Podguy

The cap is like a freeze plug. It is cupped. You just need to hit in the center and pry it out with a screw driver.

tmpusfugit

If I recall correctly after the end cap comes off, it is necessary to pull the lock mechanism also to remove the locking rod. There are a number of parts in the entire mechanism that need be reinstalled after removing the locking rod, if you want to still use the conventional ignition switch. Their correct assembly is not necessarily intutitive nor easy. It took some time for me to get a certain small spring back in the correct position, with all the rest working properly....I didn't take photos as I needed 3 hands at the time to hold the parts, while sliding things together. If you never plan to use the ignition switch I suppose you could leave it all out....personally speaking I would want to leave the ignition switch working and wire the push button start elsewhere. Oh, by the way, the end cap (freeze plug) will need to be pushed back in and crimped in to use the ignition switch as designed....

Benton

As Jim implied, these two items you are planning are best done together. Once you get the cap off, the locking rod is difficult to remove. I had one car that I didn't have the key for--so the wheel was locked when we tried to move the car--and just had a BFH and a big flat head screwdriver on me and no other tools (back when I moved shops and had already moved my tools two hours away, only one car left to move). Got the cap off, but the locking rod wouldn't come out as it is difficult to get anything around it to actually pull on. So I ended up having to use the hammer and screwdriver to puncture and break away the top side of the arm that the locking rod is inside and hammer a groove into the locking rod to be able to push it out instead of pull.

For wiring the starter button/ignition switch, check this out: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...+switch+wiring

With some basic knowledge of electrical systems, that should get you most of the way. I originally had a starter button--Honda style--but ditched it in favor of a high quality Eaton sealed momentary switch. I have a cutoff switch mounted to the roll cage, then an ignition switch on the dash that the ignition (and fuel pump IIRC) is wired through, then a momentary switch for the starter. Easy Peasy.