BC

I forgot to mention that the reason I couldn't get it to run after the initial fuel pump, J-line and filter installation is an interesting and ridiculous-looking double pole- relay that was in the back of the car.

Get this: Someone had cut the green/red line that goes to the fuel pump. They had then extended with cut-clips into other wires (blue/black at the back harness and a power wire). I have no idea what that was for other than some idiotic attempt at bypassing SOMETHING or possibly making a red-neck car-alarm based on lights or the hatch lock. I hooked it back temporarily and the car started right up with no jumper on the fuel pump relay.

Maybe I should put this in the Stupid PO tricks thread.

Landseer

Well, sorry its been a hassle, but sounds like you are close.

Its a double-edged sword. But if they were intuitively easy to fix, they'd be harder to liberate.

karl ruiter

Hoping it is the low fuel thing. Fuel has to completely cover the inlet hose of it will suck air and it takes more than you might think.

BC

Well, put more gas in it, ran it in the drive way for 20 minutes, no problems (well, the noise, but in a separate thread) - and then drove it. It died in about 500 feet.

At this point, a lot of relay clicking. Then I tried to jumper the fuel pump and it won't run. Meaning the fuel pump will not run when jumpered. I checked the LH relay and it seems like its not clicking over.

I jumper the LH relay socket and the fuel pump will still not run when jumpered.

Its as if something is overheating and stopping the system from running?

Landseer

Fuel pump should run, jumpered, ign off, regardless of condition of LH relay.
(its routed through the panel now, right?)

Lots of stuff can cause problems.
What have you done so far electrically?

I'd at least want to pull / inspect / clean panel. (lookiing for melts)
Replace fuses, they get real nasty on these plugin panels.
Clean the most key ground points.
Maybe swap out the ground strap.

danglerb

Buy it on Friday and drive it to work on Monday, if I was feeling that lucky I would buy lotto tickets.

When you find bonus relays, good sign the PO was trying heroic measures to get it running without any knowledge of the electrical system. My 84 Euro was that way as the PO tried to bypass an old alarm and who knows what wrong in the CE panel.

You SD guys seem to be finding some real bargains, Leo thinks his $900 928 will be ready for smog this week.

svp928

Brendan, I had similar symptoms and found the fuel pump starting to sieze.. you may be able to clear it by removing it and running it backwards, with some WD40 or similar will loosen it up. If thats the case, it will need a new one soon...

BC

I just installed the pump (newer used) and a used screen. There was alot of stuff in the tank, and I took quite a bit of time to clean it out. I suppose I could double check the pump operation.

Anyone have a link to the wiring diagrams? I have them on anothr computer.

karl ruiter

http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

BC

I'm not great at electrical stuff. I guess once I stare at it for a while, it starts to make minimal sense, but from what I can see on the alarm schematic, could the alarm not be allowing the LH relay to hole SOMETIMES?

The interior is disassembled, so the door locks are unplugged, as are the hatch lock motor is too. So that could be interfering I guess.

Anyone have a good way to make sure the alarm is not interfering?

Landseer

Bypass it.

BC

I'll search for bypassing the alarm. At least maybe I can rule it out because it is completely stopping mid rev when it quits. Like ignition just stops. At that point, all being unchanged, the fuel pump relay socket cannot be jumpered to run the pump.

Landseer

Black, 8 pin flat connector behind CE.

Unplug. On female connector, bridge terminals 1 & 4. 1 is yellow, 4 is black w/red stripe.

You are essentially connecting B23 and F25 by doing this. ( so you could unplug, then bridge them at the plugs, depending on how much of a backwoods feel you are striving to achieve )



Bridging fuel pump relay socket will make pump run regardless of condition of alarm. (activated, not activated but connected, nor disconnected)

I'm now thinking short on back of panel. Or grounds, not just connections, the straps themselves. That back one, especially, will fail intermittently.

I also think you could easily have multiple things going wrong at once. That's what makes the quick patch harder and more frustrating than the systematic electrical cleaning / sensor replacing situation. Hang in there.

On our Euro, we had terrible corrosion at key computer grounds and CPS wire fray.

On the Rip Van Winker 85 (avatar), we had corrosion where computer grounds attached to ring terminal, loose connection where ring terminal grounded at back of valley, a series of melted wires on panel backside that affected key relays, AND the hidden ground strap corrosion problem from HELL. All intermittent. Fix one thing, still intermittent just different frequency. Crazy ****.

On Jim's Perl 87, we had nasty fray at CPS connector. I think at MAF connector, too?

neilh

If you need an extra pair of hands, eyes, electrical help, let me know, i'm free all day Friday.
Neil

BC

I put a wire from 30 to 87 on the FP socket and no go last night.