Quits, won't start, 86.5 (maybe alarm?)
#31
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#33
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It would be great to know, in a situation where you jumper the fuel pump relay but get no fuel, what voltages are on the 30 and 87 pins, respectively, to ground.
Check also fuel pump ground.
I think its at the rear quarter panel, under the panel ( is for 85/6, don't think it changes for 86.5).
Another thing that can happen is fuse 42 is corroded or blown.
Check also fuel pump ground.
I think its at the rear quarter panel, under the panel ( is for 85/6, don't think it changes for 86.5).
Another thing that can happen is fuse 42 is corroded or blown.
#34
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Thread Starter
Black, 8 pin flat connector behind CE.
Unplug. On female connector, bridge terminals 1 & 4. 1 is yellow, 4 is black w/red stripe.
You are essentially connecting B23 and F25 by doing this. ( so you could unplug, then bridge them at the plugs, depending on how much of a backwoods feel you are striving to achieve )
Bridging fuel pump relay socket will make pump run regardless of condition of alarm. (activated, not activated but connected, nor disconnected)
I'm now thinking short on back of panel. Or grounds, not just connections, the straps themselves. That back one, especially, will fail intermittently.
Unplug. On female connector, bridge terminals 1 & 4. 1 is yellow, 4 is black w/red stripe.
You are essentially connecting B23 and F25 by doing this. ( so you could unplug, then bridge them at the plugs, depending on how much of a backwoods feel you are striving to achieve )
Bridging fuel pump relay socket will make pump run regardless of condition of alarm. (activated, not activated but connected, nor disconnected)
I'm now thinking short on back of panel. Or grounds, not just connections, the straps themselves. That back one, especially, will fail intermittently.
But as you said, bridging the FP socket should make the pump run, which it does not.
I don't know if you saw, but I wrote about a relay that was spliced into the Rd/grn wire to the fuel pump. It was haphazardly done, but it was obviously someone who knew enough to be dangerous. It was spliced into the rear loom going to a blk/blu wire that may have been for lights or the hatch lock. Maybe it was to fix THIS issue, or it was for some other reason.
#35
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Thread Starter
It would be great to know, in a situation where you jumper the fuel pump relay but get no fuel, what voltages are on the 30 and 87 pins, respectively, to ground.
Check also fuel pump ground.
I think its at the rear quarter panel, under the panel ( is for 85/6, don't think it changes for 86.5).
Another thing that can happen is fuse 42 is corroded or blown.
Check also fuel pump ground.
I think its at the rear quarter panel, under the panel ( is for 85/6, don't think it changes for 86.5).
Another thing that can happen is fuse 42 is corroded or blown.
#36
Rennlist Member
Brendan, assume you are using the 86 diagram, although the 87 looks the same around the relay and pumps. Anyway, as Chris asks - what voltage do you see at 30 on the FP relay? Should be hot +12.
Jumper 30 to 87, should see same +12 at both ends of fuse 42.
Back to pumps - pull connectors, should have +12 at pin 2, ground ( check with ohms meter, at pin 1.)
BTW, that relay you found was probably a crude attempt at an immobilzer!
Jumper 30 to 87, should see same +12 at both ends of fuse 42.
Back to pumps - pull connectors, should have +12 at pin 2, ground ( check with ohms meter, at pin 1.)
BTW, that relay you found was probably a crude attempt at an immobilzer!
Last edited by neilh; 01-27-2011 at 04:35 PM.
#37
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Brenden, check your engine grounds. clean the 2 at the back of the V(under the fuel lines), main engine ground on passenger side under the car, and the coil grounds. My '89 exhibited similar symptons (would run all day in the driveway, then strand you alongside the highway in a construction zone when you least expect it. The fue pump would not consistently run without being jumpered. I thought it was the LH, which I had rebuilt. Come to find out that the engine had no ground. The computers were trying to find a ground and when they did, the car ran great, when the didn't the car wouldn't run at all.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Last edited by soontobered84; 01-27-2011 at 04:28 PM. Reason: punct
#38
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Brendan, since it a new(er) pump, to rule out pump malfunction try jumpering direct from the bat to the pump to see if it runs, then you know if its a wiring prob or not?
Careful, use small wire 16ga or so- if the pump is shorted or jammed, you may get sparks. In fact connect two jumpers together away from the pump and the bat to do this....no expl
osions needed
Careful, use small wire 16ga or so- if the pump is shorted or jammed, you may get sparks. In fact connect two jumpers together away from the pump and the bat to do this....no expl
osions needed
#39
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Thread Starter
I think its compound. There is a chance the used fuel pump is quiting occassionally, and there is also a chance the LH relay is heating up and releasing.
#40
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Well, today it is running. And what seems to be permanently. Drove it about 7 miles to get gas and see what else shakes out. Seems pretty tight except for no seals in the doors or hatch. Fixed some of that today, and put a door seal on. I must glue another one together for the passenger side.
It shifts well, engine knocking noise seems to be resolved.
There seems to be a sort of stutter or stepped power delivery when accelerating from lower revs. I will start a thread on that.
Some connection issues still linger, and I am going through the steps to clean contacts and grounds. Essentially the fuel pump was stopping when there was a big bump or the hatch was pushed down. Yes, weird, I know. Its not happening, but I would possibly have liked to know the true issue.
It shifts well, engine knocking noise seems to be resolved.
There seems to be a sort of stutter or stepped power delivery when accelerating from lower revs. I will start a thread on that.
Some connection issues still linger, and I am going through the steps to clean contacts and grounds. Essentially the fuel pump was stopping when there was a big bump or the hatch was pushed down. Yes, weird, I know. Its not happening, but I would possibly have liked to know the true issue.
#41
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Interesting. Glad its running. Keep diagnosing though.
Valley grounds are big.
Did you change-out battery ground cable?
14 pin is important, too.
Valley grounds are big.
Did you change-out battery ground cable?
14 pin is important, too.
#43
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Thread Starter
You'd be surprised what was going through my head when the hatch shut and the motor cut out - more than once under testing.
Ground cable was greenish, but ohmed at .3, so I cleaned it up and re tightened.
Did clean the grounds at the back of the valley.
I feel as though the car is running very rich. The cats may just be dead as doornails. I should think about getting cleaned 24lb injectors.
#44
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I think the ohm test doesn't apply to a ground cable, Brendan. When that cable is under load, or car hits a bump, or change in humidity, I think the electrical pathway can still breakdown. I also think .3 is a lot. $7 spent at Advance Auto can take it out of the equation.
#45
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You mean LR stan?