Horrible Noises from Leeroy (EDIT 1/6)
#17
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If it was in my possession and it broke, I'd fix it. I'm sure BC will do that.
#18
Nordschleife Master
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I don't know the dual clutches at all - but going to the floor suggests to me that the release arm has come off the ball? Have a look under the airbox to see - if its off you might be able to pry it back on and at least get another day out of it before you get to the weekend and can drop the clutch.
A broken/missing ball cup also causes a rattling noise, which changes with clutch action - although I'm guessing the release bearing is still an issue given your experience and knowledge of these cars.
A broken/missing ball cup also causes a rattling noise, which changes with clutch action - although I'm guessing the release bearing is still an issue given your experience and knowledge of these cars.
#19
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Thread Starter
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I just wrote a very long post and lost four paragraphs, so I will summarize:
1) Yes, the deal is I fix whatever breaks
2) I don't usually pat myself on the back, or not at all, but I have done so far and above what others would have done in the same arena.
3) Not more than a few weeks ago I replaced the alternator, repainted the bumper, replaced broken/cracked lights, replaced the wheel bearings and did a front brake job. I borrowed/stole cars to drive to work during that time.
4) The car WILL be fixed one way or another, but if the process is completely left up to me it will sit for several weeks as my new job takes much more of my time and energy, and will also be traveling some.
5) I believe the next person chosen/deigned/picked/voted/ or conjured from used motor oil should come forward and work with me on prioritizing and facilitating how the car will be fixed, and what WYAITs are determined to be important. I am relatively sure the TOB is not the only thing that fragged. As I have mentioned previously the TT needs to be rebuilt/replaced.
6) I bought another 928 months ago but have not taken possession. Yes, I could have bought a 500 dollar honda locally, but I am not that guy. It's not here, but will need some work when it gets here. That is where my automobile effort, whenever I can find some, will go for the next several weeks.
I am in sales. I know what a "what have you done for me lately" looks like. My total contribution so far has been:
Passenger side upper ball joint
Shocks (bilsteins)
Springs (GT springs)
Rack Bushings (solid)
Flushed Brake Fluid (ATE Yellow)
Front Brakes pads and rotors (bendix I think, and Good used rotors from a great guy)
Front Wheel Bearings
Battery
Alternator (twice) (now has a properly wired AC Delco and new belt)
Power Steering Pump (from 928intl)
Power steering line
Transmission Oil (Redline)
Breather system (I can remove if needed)
AFM (was surging and stalling - one trace was bad on original)
Gear shift lever (short shifter)
Gear Shift Boot (black leather)
Pinned the front bearing on the Torque Tube (see below)
Adjusted Clutch several times
Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Innards
Front Bumper was repainted and matched to the cashmier beige
Front Driver's lights were replaced
A real alignment was done.
The Vac inducer was removed from under the spider - it was causing large idle fluctuations on downhill off-throttle coasting.
The muffler fell off on the highway early in the year. I went back to get it but it was not usable. So I had a pipe welded on to the end of where the break was. Sounds great, lighter, - perfect.
Yes. I am frustrated. If any of you think you wouldn't be, then you are lying here and lying to yourself.
1) Yes, the deal is I fix whatever breaks
2) I don't usually pat myself on the back, or not at all, but I have done so far and above what others would have done in the same arena.
3) Not more than a few weeks ago I replaced the alternator, repainted the bumper, replaced broken/cracked lights, replaced the wheel bearings and did a front brake job. I borrowed/stole cars to drive to work during that time.
4) The car WILL be fixed one way or another, but if the process is completely left up to me it will sit for several weeks as my new job takes much more of my time and energy, and will also be traveling some.
5) I believe the next person chosen/deigned/picked/voted/ or conjured from used motor oil should come forward and work with me on prioritizing and facilitating how the car will be fixed, and what WYAITs are determined to be important. I am relatively sure the TOB is not the only thing that fragged. As I have mentioned previously the TT needs to be rebuilt/replaced.
6) I bought another 928 months ago but have not taken possession. Yes, I could have bought a 500 dollar honda locally, but I am not that guy. It's not here, but will need some work when it gets here. That is where my automobile effort, whenever I can find some, will go for the next several weeks.
I am in sales. I know what a "what have you done for me lately" looks like. My total contribution so far has been:
Passenger side upper ball joint
Shocks (bilsteins)
Springs (GT springs)
Rack Bushings (solid)
Flushed Brake Fluid (ATE Yellow)
Front Brakes pads and rotors (bendix I think, and Good used rotors from a great guy)
Front Wheel Bearings
Battery
Alternator (twice) (now has a properly wired AC Delco and new belt)
Power Steering Pump (from 928intl)
Power steering line
Transmission Oil (Redline)
Breather system (I can remove if needed)
AFM (was surging and stalling - one trace was bad on original)
Gear shift lever (short shifter)
Gear Shift Boot (black leather)
Pinned the front bearing on the Torque Tube (see below)
Adjusted Clutch several times
Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Innards
Front Bumper was repainted and matched to the cashmier beige
Front Driver's lights were replaced
A real alignment was done.
The Vac inducer was removed from under the spider - it was causing large idle fluctuations on downhill off-throttle coasting.
The muffler fell off on the highway early in the year. I went back to get it but it was not usable. So I had a pipe welded on to the end of where the break was. Sounds great, lighter, - perfect.
Yes. I am frustrated. If any of you think you wouldn't be, then you are lying here and lying to yourself.
#20
Rennlist Member
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I don't remember clearly, but the TO bearing is held onto the pressure plate with a circlip of some sort. I think if the TO bearing was starting to seize is would destroy that clip and come off the pressure plate and your petal will go to the floor. I think this happend to me once.
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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Thats good. I need to picture this. I was just in there (no moved parts) but its good to picture what is going on.
#23
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Santa Cruz, California
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Hang in there, bud. We all share your frustration with these pigs, er... I mean beasts. It's not too bad a job, assuming you can find a new TOB. May be a good time to replace that pesky upper ball cup as well. I'll have to do some reading into the history behind 'Leroy', maybe I can help.
Meanwhile... maybe rent a Prius and drive that for a day. You'll be dying to fix the 928 that night.
Meanwhile... maybe rent a Prius and drive that for a day. You'll be dying to fix the 928 that night.
#25
Nordschleife Master
#26
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Clutch kits are impossible to find for the 80-86 MY, if you do manage to find one be ready for sticker shock $1200.00, I know roger did have most of the parts to make a kit and is working on a TO bearing replacement.
#27
Race Car
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The only way I see that the TO bearing could take out the pressure plate fingers is if it seized due to lack of lubrication. If the snap-ring wears out, the washer will simply fall down and the bearing will go right through the hole in the pressure plate and the pedal is not coming back up. Incidentally, my '86 with a 12 year old clutch had a snap-ring that was very worn. A couple thousand more miles and I am sure it wouldn't be able to hold the TO bearing against the pressure plate anymore.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
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