Borrow, rent, steal or make Special Tool 9226
#1
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Its the cam alignment tool for 85-86, maybe others.
Anybody got one? I can make a copy of the two cam setting pieces at work, even off an accurate drawing.
TIA KK
Anybody got one? I can make a copy of the two cam setting pieces at work, even off an accurate drawing.
TIA KK
#2
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This is the one to hold the cams down as you remove the caps, right?
I made my own out of home depot parts, I think a couple of others have as well. Search is your friend here!!
I made my own out of home depot parts, I think a couple of others have as well. Search is your friend here!!
#3
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clampinig tool or alignment tool. you dont need the alignment tool if you follow the spacing of the gear marks. the clamping tool is good, but you can get away with not having it if you are extremely careful in tighting the cam blocks down a half a tighting turn at a time. (I know ill get blasted for that one)
#4
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I've got a set of the 9226 and 9248 tools that I can mail you for the cost of shipping, if you like. PM me your address and I'll get one or both in the mail. Mark is right, though, you don't really need the alignment tool for setting the cams in the chains before placing them in the head, nor do you really the need the clamping tools for assembly either. I felt better having them for cam removal but honestly they're not really essential either. Nicely machined paperweights for the garage, tho.
EDIT: I could scan them along with a good ruler on my flatbed scanner here if that's all you really need. Let me know.
EDIT: I could scan them along with a good ruler on my flatbed scanner here if that's all you really need. Let me know.
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Rob,
After KK uses them, I'd be willing to use our digitizing arm to import the profiles and create 3D models and drawings of them for future Rennlister use if you're up for the lend...
After KK uses them, I'd be willing to use our digitizing arm to import the profiles and create 3D models and drawings of them for future Rennlister use if you're up for the lend...
#6
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Mike-
You're welcome to the tool stash anytime, just come get them or we can meet at Greg's or Mark's.
You're welcome to the tool stash anytime, just come get them or we can meet at Greg's or Mark's.
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#7
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A high res scan would be great! I can make a 3D model from that AND then get a plastic one made on a FDM machine at work.
Thanks!
KK
Thanks!
KK
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#9
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Here's the scan of the tools. Not sure I like the shadows cast by their thickness... The link is to a 50MB TIFF file at 600 dpi, the picture is a a 100 dpi jpg. Let me know if you want/need it scanned differently.
https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/pu...2011-15-10.tif
https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/pu...2011-15-10.tif
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/9226%20100%20dpi%2011-15-10.jpg)
#11
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Andrew-
The pic above was made on my flatbed scanner at work. The problem is that the tools are ~1/4" thick so they cast a shadow. I guess I could put a black piece of paper over them (?) and re-scan? Or do it in grayscale and crank the contrast so that the edges are sharper? Anyone with a clue (not me, obviously) how best to do this?
The pic above was made on my flatbed scanner at work. The problem is that the tools are ~1/4" thick so they cast a shadow. I guess I could put a black piece of paper over them (?) and re-scan? Or do it in grayscale and crank the contrast so that the edges are sharper? Anyone with a clue (not me, obviously) how best to do this?
#12
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Sorry Rob. Looked like a photograph.
The I guess the thing to do would to have some photoshop genious (not me) clean up the shadow. The you've basically got a blueprint for making your own. You could even print it out at 100% and glue to a nice piece of plywood and cut it out on a band saw. Would be close enough I think.
The I guess the thing to do would to have some photoshop genious (not me) clean up the shadow. The you've basically got a blueprint for making your own. You could even print it out at 100% and glue to a nice piece of plywood and cut it out on a band saw. Would be close enough I think.
#13
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No biggie, it does look a lot like a photo. Should left off the white backing pad. I'll try again.
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#14
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looks good, but folks, it doesnt have to be that accurate. when you are off a tooth, it wont even be close. plus, i still dont see the purpose. I did use it on my very first time, but when I used the distance measurement of the cam marks and the sprocket links, it seemed to be just as effective.
this might be a good double check method by using some photocopy of the tool with cardboard backing.
this might be a good double check method by using some photocopy of the tool with cardboard backing.