Well, im starin at 8 new injectors..and goin thru the awesome writeup here:

http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/1...%20Refresh.htm

..and..if I get the injectors out, which is easy enough..why stop there??


I can do this..ive psyched myself up for it..and yes, I KNOW I can do it.


So..tonight, I start. I'll use this thread to capture/log any gotchas that I run into that dont fit into Dwayne's synopsis of the project..but I dont anticipate anything oddball coming up at all.

And now that Roger is done with Third coast..I think I can start getting some parts orders in and back to me pretty easily now.

 

Good luck.

 

Let me know where you get and what it cost for your top end gaskets

 

If I can do it, anyone can.

Tips from my experience: Take pictures, look at pictures, take your time, do it right, don't force anything, label parts, ask questions, and enjoy the learning experience.

Oh yeah… good luck

 

he he he sounds like experience

 

you can do it... not that bad. just like utensils on the dinner table. work from the outside in...

will you do your valve covers also. the pass side one is a challenge, but i learned some tricks. on my s4, i broke the co tube, but again, there are some tricks..

sounds like you are doing the fuel injectors and intake... not that bad at all...

 

its not that hard....I've done it three times.....it seems really intimidating at 1st but once you do it once its easy.....some things you will want to replace

1: new flappy..check bearing too
2: all the rubber lines under there
3: clean or replace ISV (clean should work...can cause weird idle when sticky)
4: Make sure the injectors have the right size lower O ring (it should be bigger than top)
5: knock sensors
6: possibly little rubber elbows on vac lines
7: TPS

 

Advice is lots of ziploc baggies, sharpie and floorspace. My advice is do it right.... if you think in needs replaced do it. Easier once its apart.

Having the right tools is also a huge help. Sean saved my **** a few times with tips and letting me borrow a few of his tools! Oh yeah, and he helped me button it up on a Saturday.

 

dont forget to swap out the crank position sensor as well .. Warning use compressed air to blow out all of the sand in the lower injector seal areas otherwise it will fall into the cylinder .
Pay attention to a piece that looks like a bolt head with an off center hole in it, this is a stop for the flappy arm they do fall off and lay in the V,
the stop is tapped on to the roll pin so the flappy plate is open a hair ,
so it wont bind when the intake gets hot,
use some green locktite to hold it once its positioned try not to twist it on the roll pin as you can shear off the pin

 

Good luck, neighbor. Piece of cake, it's just bolts and bits, righty-tighty,lefty-loosey. Pulling apart is the pita; clean/replace all the bits, rtfm, put it back together, go drive the **** out of it. Have fun, and if you need a hand, give me a shout, I can be up there in a 1/2 hour with plenty of beer and advice.

 

Not too bad a job. My advice on the fuel damper and regulator connections ... loosen the bolts at the base of the mounting brackets and turn the dampers/regulator slightly to free up the injector rails. Then when you're done, just turn them back toward the rail end connections. That will help ensure a good leak-free connection and nothing getting bent.

Otherwise, Dwayne's instructions will carry you all the way through the job.

 

Mrmerlin, i save all your mustang avitars and send to my ex- sabre pilot dad.
beautiful! (not the old mustangs, I dont like them without the bubble cockpit glass . they look too much like a spitfire )

 

Watch out for loose injector clips that fly off into space or down into one of the cylinders. Once you find the lost clips, reafix them to the plug using a soldering iron or install the updated wire clips that cannot fall/fly off.

Dwayne originally showed the manifold spacers installed upside down. I think he fixed that. The flared end should be down and installed on the studs before dropping the manifold down. Torque on the manifold nuts is only 11 ft-lbs.

Carefully observe the routing of the passenger side breather hose that runs down in the valley beside the throttle from the oil filler base to the MAF boot. Before you bolt things down, check that the throttle turns freely. A slightly misrouted hose will bind the throttle and you will have to take the manifold back off to reposition it.

The hardest part is reinstalling the ISV connector. It takes real long finger on small hands or a long surgical clamp and a mirror and some luck. Getting then TPS plug back on is slightly easier. Getting the throttle cable end back on the throttle bellcrank lever can be frustrating when working alone.

Don't forget to route all the vacuum lines out from under the manifold before dropping it down. Don't forget to attach the front 3-way breather hose to the front of the throttle housing before dropping the manfold back on.

The fuel fittings can be tricky, especially the rear ones. Careful not to cross-thread. They must be lined up perfectly and should almost spin on by hand. Tighten but do not over tighten. Check for leaks by jumping the fuel pump relay. Don't just look for leaks, but run you finger under each fitting and look for any wetness.

Lube the injector o-rings with a little synthetic non-silicone grease and check them all around after insertion into the manifold to make sure none of the o-rings got hung up. I use Super Lube synthetic grease available in a small tube at O'Rielly/Kragan, Pep Boys or even Harbor Freight.

These personal tips were all learned the hard way.

 

Good luck, have been lying in a darkened room since starting mine

 

+1.

Well said.
I used Dwayne's writeup when I did mine in 2009 and everything went very well. Thanks Dwayne.
Take your time and clean and fix everything that needs to.
Not a hard job realy. Just take your time.

Good luck.