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Work on your non-928 vehicle?

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Old 10-19-2010, 12:37 AM
  #31  
polecat702
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I do all the maintance and repairs on our cars and bikes, except the Tahoe, and Focus. Both atre under warranty.
Old 10-19-2010, 12:54 AM
  #32  
dprantl
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Originally Posted by blown 87
You are 100% right about a crappy design if it was a 900 or a 9000, the idlers are just junk and will fail very quick, like 20-30 thousand miles.

The early 9000's had a special tool "C" shaped tool that was to hold it open while you changed the belt and the tool was weak and would open up just at the moment it trap your hand some place, you had to use water pump pliers to force it open, just awful and the idlers would last about 20 thousand miles.

Some had a left handed thread, some did not, I keep a set of both in my tool box.

Yea, awful.
Haha, that's funny. I just finished replacing another idler in my '91 9000. Horrible screeching noise followed by a CLUNK, then rapidly rising temp gauge. Look on the floor under the car, oh look that's an idler pulley.

Oh, and don't crank on that left-handed bolt. It *will* strip, then you will need to buy the whole tensioner bracket or helicoil the thing.

But there is definitely enough space to work without removing the wheel at all. And if the belt is good, you can just pull it up and insert a $2 homemade tool to hold the belt and in 15 seconds belt is off. Oh, and it took me 45 minutes to remove and install a new water pump, so no comparing it to a 928. Not to mention the pump is not driven by a belt that keeps the engine in time and also has a real impeller shaft section... the pump lasted over 120k miles.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 10-19-2010, 01:11 AM
  #33  
blown 87
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I have never replaced a water pump on a 2.2 or 2.3 SAAB, around 50 ignition cassettes, countless serp belts and idlers, but never a water pump.

Your lifters ticking yet?

Originally Posted by dprantl
Haha, that's funny. I just finished replacing another idler in my '91 9000. Horrible screeching noise followed by a CLUNK, then rapidly rising temp gauge. Look on the floor under the car, oh look that's an idler pulley.

Oh, and don't crank on that left-handed bolt. It *will* strip, then you will need to buy the whole tensioner bracket or helicoil the thing.

But there is definitely enough space to work without removing the wheel at all. And if the belt is good, you can just pull it up and insert a $2 homemade tool to hold the belt and in 15 seconds belt is off. Oh, and it took me 45 minutes to remove and install a new water pump, so no comparing it to a 928. Not to mention the pump is not driven by a belt that keeps the engine in time and also has a real impeller shaft section... the pump lasted over 120k miles.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 10-19-2010, 01:15 AM
  #34  
dprantl
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Originally Posted by blown 87
I have never replaced a water pump on a 2.2 or 2.3 SAAB, around 50 ignition cassettes, countless serp belts and idlers, but never a water pump.

Your lifters ticking yet?
That's only on the older 2.0's with the really weird overhead oil pipes under the valve cover. WTF was up with that....

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 10-19-2010, 01:23 AM
  #35  
blown 87
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I sure have seen a lot of them ticking, and not just the 2.0's, I have a later model 900 vert that the customer just gave me because it is ticking and needed a MAF.
make you a real deal on it.
In all fairness I put almost 250,000 on a 9000CD and never replaced a ignition cassette or had the head off.

Originally Posted by dprantl
That's only on the older 2.0's with the really weird overhead oil pipes under the valve cover. WTF was up with that....

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 10-19-2010, 01:25 AM
  #36  
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"Chevy did that because the DRLs last about 9 months at the most. At least on my 2002 they do anyway. "

My wife's '99 Suburban has 212,000 + miles, and AFAIK, still had the factory bulbs until a few months ago. One bulb finally went, so I changed both.

The Jaguar XJS was a little tighter than the 928 as far as access. The factory shop manual warns that it is a small car with a lot of equipment. I have never seen another vehicle with so many fasteners that you could see, but not get a wrench on...
Old 10-19-2010, 04:54 AM
  #37  
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I work on all the other small cars (minis, Gti, etc) without a problem, but not my wife's VW Golf.
It broke a turbo shaft - I couldn't even SEE the turbo, let alone replace it.
Old 10-19-2010, 07:24 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by jeff spahn
Chevy did that because the DRLs last about 9 months at the most. At least on my 2002 they do anyway.
As stated, truck is a '03 so 7 years; didn't know US vehicles had DRLs?

Should add that the truck has travelled +230k kms, no leaks, no fail to start, hauls large loads and pulls trailers with ease.
Old 10-19-2010, 08:02 AM
  #39  
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I read somewhere the DRL housings were reportedly designed incorrectly, not allowing respect to heat escape.
Old 10-19-2010, 09:06 AM
  #40  
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Best car I ever owned was a 1962 Land Rover Series 2a (SWB) only needed 2 tools - BFH and a 1/2" AF spanner. You could even stand next to the engine inside the hood.

2nd best was a 1993 GM Cavalier. Clutch change was easier than on a 928. Only bugbear with it was the alt belt - one side of it went through the drivers side engine mount. Replacement entailed supporting the engine, removing the mount, unbolting it into it's two separate halves (needed a vice to do this), before the belt was free. There were people in the UK selling Alternator belts and engine mounts pre-threaded together so you could replace at the side of the road.
Old 10-19-2010, 06:31 PM
  #41  
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I hate my wife's Honda minivan 2008! Bump steer, ****ty seats (6'5", 215 lbs), not as powerful as our 2006 Town and Country (I thought a much nicer car), My 1992 Wrangler... I can get in and close the hood...low tech no tech!, 2009 GMC 2500 hd all I do is change the oil and rotate the tires (locked rear burns through tires every 20,000-30,000 miles). I love to work on the 928 almost as much as I love to drive it. Never have I felt such a sense of accomplishment... to fix such a complicated marvel! Besides the other rides don't have the likes of you guys to get me through! It's only fun when you have a bunch of Geniuses have your back.
Old 10-20-2010, 08:31 PM
  #42  
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I rebuilt the rear suspension on my '67 Mustang convertible last week. Replaced the 2:79 open gear with a 3:55 posi center section and cleaned/sanded/painted the housing. Then added new leaf springs, a rear sway bar, new shocks, new brake lines, and under rider traction bars. I can't remember having to cuss once. It was extremely easy. Doing the same job on a 928 would require ear plugs for neighbors living up to 3 miles away.
Old 10-20-2010, 10:37 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by cold_beer839
Doing the same job on a 928 would require ear plugs for neighbors living up to 3 miles away.
Old 10-21-2010, 03:26 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by nc_growler
Yeah, you know it, huh...
Old 10-21-2010, 03:37 AM
  #45  
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Doing some fairly extensive work on the wife's Saturn. Color change to a Chrysler marathon blue, refinishing wheels, reupholstering seats, etc... still wayyy cheaper than the newer alternatives that don't measure up. She loves that car. She'll love it even more soon.

Some of the stuff, like alt/ps/tensioner is a royal PITA to get to without a lift. Overall it's very well-maintained though, 170K and going strong. I'm going to take the brakes from the parts car, make it 4 wheel disk.

She does a lot of her own work, changes the oil, swapped a dead battery herself, upgraded speakers and CD player herself, etc. and she did just as much work as I did pulling stuff of prior to paint. Life is good.

Last three were taken Monday. Car was taken to paint shop on parts car wheels while the big alloys are being refinished.






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