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Overheating after WP replacement... Place your bets...

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Old 11-18-2010 | 10:07 AM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by Landseer
My guess is he's still trying to drive home the point that ball bearings don't need to be run-in.

Just feel free to install and immediately redline it.

And maybe he's technically right.

I think growler's approach is reasonable. Run / listen / take your time
Normally I would agree that there would be no need to "run them in",but because this design is meant to shear the coupler at a load that is just under the required load to slip the belt,it is possible that such a load may be present at first start up and the first heat cycle of the engine.Such a load would not be noticed on a conventional pump because the direct contact of the belt to pulley to shaft.And the belt may even slip at this time,even minutely, until the load is no longer there.All things new are tighter then things old.A good example would be a rebuilt engine on first start up tends to run hotter,and as it breaks in returns to optimum temperature.
So given this,we built a quick test stand and install all the pumps on it now and run them for at least an hour at 7400 rpm.This allows the bearings to seat and ride through any "rough spot" and lubricates the seal and allows us to analyze the pump and drive,check the seal and gasket surface for leaks and should eliminate any start up or early run issues. Here is a quick vid of Stephan's pump before last week.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwEn5VGhzsI
Ed
Old 11-18-2010 | 10:13 AM
  #227  
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That's a neat little set up
Old 11-18-2010 | 09:31 PM
  #228  
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Break-in period officially ended Wednesday evening... Straightened the curves out of several miles of the back country roads nearby and 6600 RPM never sounded so good!

We're back in business and loving it! Temporary daily driver... Can't help myself (or wipe this silly grin off my face!)...
Old 11-19-2010 | 02:19 PM
  #229  
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I have always found it a very good idea to over test all production units when a design is new or recently modified. Seems like to there are always possible variations that can lead to failures, and you just cannot anticipate them all.
Old 11-19-2010 | 02:34 PM
  #230  
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That is funny. you guys are really sick! probably a little easier to just install the engine and run it.
what is the ratio of our engines and water pump (drive pulley vs water pump)? interesting that 3hp runs the pump to 7000rpm no problem in a flash. the only other thing I would do, would be to put white marks on the pulley or motor, and see how fast it runs under load. with the RPM of the electric motor known, you could then figure out the force required by the waterpump. yes, its a 3400rpm motor, but synchronous speed is 3600rpm. the induction motors slip, naturally and follow a torque/speed curve. how far it slips, tells you (approx) what torque is needed. i mean , as long as you got that set up running, why not determine a few things.
Nice job! I guess the water pump works.
Old 11-27-2010 | 04:15 PM
  #231  
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Very interesting thread. I have one of Ed's innovative design WPs on order and am really glad that he's now performing a bench test to double-check Laso's parts quality too. I almost ordered a new Porsche WP but I'm not sure I trust their stuff any more. Ed can provide quality oversight that low-bid manufacturers/suppliers may not. The peace of mind that comes with his run-in test is worth extra money.

H2
Old 11-27-2010 | 05:38 PM
  #232  
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As I get ready to do a timing belt replacement, I am reading what I can on the subject. I am interested in Ed's pump. Can we get a link to his water pump here? I like the idea of one less possible problem in the timing belt train.

And Ed, you might incorporate go no-go guages in your quality control. You may already. That impeller distance would have been caught without any measuring. Also, without knowing the geometry of the bearing setup, you might take another step in pressing bearings in order to eliminate any preloading they have against each other. My guess is that is where the 0.005 thou came from. Bearings running against each other. You may press them from the outer race, but then the inner races could be in a loaded condition. It may not be an issue, either.

Link, please! I'd like to get one of these pumps.
Old 11-27-2010 | 06:15 PM
  #233  
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Originally Posted by Gregg K
Link, please! I'd like to get one of these pumps.
More recent thread: New Product from 928sRus "Engine Guardian" Water Pump

Older thread: ***WATER PUMP PROBLEM SOLVED- (PICS ADDED)***


FWIW, mine has been up and running since July. Really glad I did it.
Old 11-27-2010 | 06:39 PM
  #234  
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Yay!

edit- Sort of... I still cannot find the water pump for sale. I've googled it. I've searched the 928srus website. How do I buy one???
Old 11-28-2010 | 09:33 AM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by Gregg K
Yay!

edit- Sort of... I still cannot find the water pump for sale. I've googled it. I've searched the 928srus website. How do I buy one???
I sent a personal message to O'Behave (Ed) and arranged the purchase directly with him.
Old 11-28-2010 | 02:53 PM
  #236  
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All my customers deal with me by email at roger@928srus.com.
Better and quicker to buy directly from ED.
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