UPDATE, 10 16 10 Porken power chips , how to install them 85/86/86.5
09-30-2010, 08:51 PM
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
UPDATE, 10 16 10 Porken power chips , how to install them 85/86/86.5
Warning , in the last two pictures the chips are not fully seated,
the white dots are correct but the chips should press down till the shoulders are touching the pads.
I took the opportunity to get a set of chips for my early 86 928S, from Porken.
The chips are easy to install it will take an average owner about 2 hours if you have all the things necessary.
A set of Porken power chips S300
A 1987 fuel pressure regulator.
A fresh MAF
A fresh O2 sensor
Installation requires removal of the computer from the passenger side footwell, MAF removal, and FPR removal.
Disconnect the battery first.
Then mark the connectors for the computers, the outer computer is the EZF the bigger one is the LH.
Once they are removed then take the computers out of the mounting bracket.
Mark them so you know what computer is what.
Carefully bend the tabs on the EZF back with a small screwdriver
Carefully bend the tabs back on the LH and remove the 2 screws on the front by the connector securing bracket one scew holds the metal connector securing tab and one is under the tab, ther are also 2 screws on the back of the base these must also be removed.
Once both computers are opened the pictures will show you where the chips are.
Note there is a white square on the board this is to indicate where the small cutout on the end of the chip lines up.
The EZF chip is easier to find as it has no cover, mark the chip prior to removal.
The LH chip is hidden with a black plastic cover, the cover is removed after the board is removed from the base plate To remove the board bend the plastic tabs to free the board.
The new chips come in a base holder leave the base holders on both of the new chips.
To remove the chips first ground yourself to the work area then with a small screwdriver gently pry one end then the other till the stock chips are free. match the new chip to the correct computer, note the small cutout on the end of the chip, it goes over the white square painted on the board.
Once the new chip is installed make sure it is evenly seated. do both computers and leave the cover off of the LH computer the new chip will contact the foam rubber on base plate, verify that the chip is still evenly pressed after mating the LH board to the base. Reinstall the screws and the cover and the metal securing tab on the LH .
Bend the tabs back on both boards, install the computers in the car.
Next remove the aircleaner base and remove MAF.
Next remove the FPR on the RR fuel rail use some rags to catch the fuel about 6 oz of gas will spill,
small rags are better as they can be placed in smaller spaces.
After you have swapped out these parts install the FPR and MAF ( note make sure the fuel lines are in good condition) the fuel system will be running at a higher pressure from stock.
Connect the battery and start the car inspect for leaks.
If thats good then install the aircleaner then road test.
You should find a smooth idle and more midrange power as well a bit more kick on the top end.
Good luck any questions feel free to ask
the white dots are correct but the chips should press down till the shoulders are touching the pads.
I took the opportunity to get a set of chips for my early 86 928S, from Porken.
The chips are easy to install it will take an average owner about 2 hours if you have all the things necessary.
A set of Porken power chips S300
A 1987 fuel pressure regulator.
A fresh MAF
A fresh O2 sensor
Installation requires removal of the computer from the passenger side footwell, MAF removal, and FPR removal.
Disconnect the battery first.
Then mark the connectors for the computers, the outer computer is the EZF the bigger one is the LH.
Once they are removed then take the computers out of the mounting bracket.
Mark them so you know what computer is what.
Carefully bend the tabs on the EZF back with a small screwdriver
Carefully bend the tabs back on the LH and remove the 2 screws on the front by the connector securing bracket one scew holds the metal connector securing tab and one is under the tab, ther are also 2 screws on the back of the base these must also be removed.
Once both computers are opened the pictures will show you where the chips are.
Note there is a white square on the board this is to indicate where the small cutout on the end of the chip lines up.
The EZF chip is easier to find as it has no cover, mark the chip prior to removal.
The LH chip is hidden with a black plastic cover, the cover is removed after the board is removed from the base plate To remove the board bend the plastic tabs to free the board.
The new chips come in a base holder leave the base holders on both of the new chips.
To remove the chips first ground yourself to the work area then with a small screwdriver gently pry one end then the other till the stock chips are free. match the new chip to the correct computer, note the small cutout on the end of the chip, it goes over the white square painted on the board.
Once the new chip is installed make sure it is evenly seated. do both computers and leave the cover off of the LH computer the new chip will contact the foam rubber on base plate, verify that the chip is still evenly pressed after mating the LH board to the base. Reinstall the screws and the cover and the metal securing tab on the LH .
Bend the tabs back on both boards, install the computers in the car.
Next remove the aircleaner base and remove MAF.
Next remove the FPR on the RR fuel rail use some rags to catch the fuel about 6 oz of gas will spill,
small rags are better as they can be placed in smaller spaces.
After you have swapped out these parts install the FPR and MAF ( note make sure the fuel lines are in good condition) the fuel system will be running at a higher pressure from stock.
Connect the battery and start the car inspect for leaks.
If thats good then install the aircleaner then road test.
You should find a smooth idle and more midrange power as well a bit more kick on the top end.
Good luck any questions feel free to ask
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 01-12-2012 at 11:09 AM.
10-01-2010, 12:15 PM
#2
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I have to drive the car more, but i am impressed with the stronger mid range torque,
and the idle is smoother for some reason, possibly the higher fuel line pressure?
I have not had any time to get to a WOT setting YET!
Thanks Ken for another great product
and the idle is smoother for some reason, possibly the higher fuel line pressure?
I have not had any time to get to a WOT setting YET!
Thanks Ken for another great product
10-01-2010, 12:23 PM
#3
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Great write-up.
I can't believe the improvements in all ranges of operation.
Ken also added a function where it doesn't just drop off the map when you lift off the throttle, it kind of 'eases' down to idle. I think it gives it a much better feel and it's better for shifting.
I don't know if it's required, but when combined with a set of crossovers the improvement is incredible.
I can also attest to the power of the s300s 'Racer' version that allows for non-resistor NGK plugs with a wider gap.
I can also tell you that if you reverse the chips you may think you've blown something but you've actually just wiped the chip. It's bad, but not catastrophic. I've been swapping and programming chips since I was in HS and every once in a while I'll get distracted and - WHOOPS. (thanks for your patience Ken! and for the great work on these mods)
I can't believe the improvements in all ranges of operation.
Ken also added a function where it doesn't just drop off the map when you lift off the throttle, it kind of 'eases' down to idle. I think it gives it a much better feel and it's better for shifting.
I don't know if it's required, but when combined with a set of crossovers the improvement is incredible.
I can also attest to the power of the s300s 'Racer' version that allows for non-resistor NGK plugs with a wider gap.
I can also tell you that if you reverse the chips you may think you've blown something but you've actually just wiped the chip. It's bad, but not catastrophic. I've been swapping and programming chips since I was in HS and every once in a while I'll get distracted and - WHOOPS. (thanks for your patience Ken! and for the great work on these mods)
10-01-2010, 12:24 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Stan,
Is there some procedure or voodoo incantation that someone is supposed to do when handling chips on an IC board. I know nothing about electronics but I've heard stuff about dealing with laptop computers and people replacing ram chips, and some sort of static electricity build up causing problems. Don't know if those are issues in dealing with 928 brains, ever heard of anything like this? Probably not an issue.
Is there some procedure or voodoo incantation that someone is supposed to do when handling chips on an IC board. I know nothing about electronics but I've heard stuff about dealing with laptop computers and people replacing ram chips, and some sort of static electricity build up causing problems. Don't know if those are issues in dealing with 928 brains, ever heard of anything like this? Probably not an issue.
10-01-2010, 01:46 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
^^^^^^^Definitely an issue!
Whenever dealing with any electronics (with the exception of most passive components) static discharge can be a problem. Always ground yourself before handling. Ideally wear a proper ground strap connected to a ground mat on your work bench. Always place chips on antistatic material and put boards in antistatic bags.
Cloth seats and circuit boards can be a big problem as well. Ever get a shock when closing the door after sliding out of a cloth seat vehicle?
Slide across a cloth seat with a circuit board in your hand and plug that board in and there is a very good chance that board could be toast.
Whenever dealing with any electronics (with the exception of most passive components) static discharge can be a problem. Always ground yourself before handling. Ideally wear a proper ground strap connected to a ground mat on your work bench. Always place chips on antistatic material and put boards in antistatic bags.
Cloth seats and circuit boards can be a big problem as well. Ever get a shock when closing the door after sliding out of a cloth seat vehicle?
Slide across a cloth seat with a circuit board in your hand and plug that board in and there is a very good chance that board could be toast.
10-01-2010, 05:12 PM
#7
Next remove the FPR on the RR fuel rail use some rags to catch the fuel about 6 oz of gas will spill,
small rags are better as they can be placed in smaller spaces.
After you have swapped out these parts install the FPR and MAF ( note make sure the fuel lines are in good condition) the fuel system will be running at a higher pressure from stock.
small rags are better as they can be placed in smaller spaces.
After you have swapped out these parts install the FPR and MAF ( note make sure the fuel lines are in good condition) the fuel system will be running at a higher pressure from stock.
In the last part you say after you have swapped out these parts install the FPR and MAF. What parts are you swapping out before installing the new parts? The old FPR and MAF...or did I miss something else that needs to be swapped??
Thanks, Paul
Trending Topics
10-01-2010, 08:21 PM
#8
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Paul, I got a fresh rebuilt MAF unit and also a new FPR to replace the stock part.
this will give the max performance possible with this setup
Adam as long as you can work on a surface where you have shorted yourself to it, you should be OK for handling the chips,
though a ground strap is Ideal its not necessary.
this will give the max performance possible with this setup
Adam as long as you can work on a surface where you have shorted yourself to it, you should be OK for handling the chips,
though a ground strap is Ideal its not necessary.
10-09-2010, 09:19 AM
#9
Team Owner
Thread Starter
10-09-2010, 09:58 PM
#10
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
[QUOTE=Landseer;7940160........Stan, how 'bout doing a write up on use of the 32V'r for advance and retard.[/QUOTE]
It comes with very clear instructions. Why would you need a write up?
It comes with very clear instructions. Why would you need a write up?
10-10-2010, 07:21 AM
#11
Pro
Will the chip work on an '85 Euro?
The "euro" LH and EZ-K ecu's are identical to the US ones, including the chips. The difference is the coding plug tells the ecu to use a different fuel map and inputs to govern idle speed and base mixture.
10-10-2010, 08:41 AM
#12
Nordschleife Master
Technically, I believe they will work in the LH2.2 ecu's found in the 16V cars, but the different displacement, cams, intake, exhaust, valve sizes, number of valves etc. would mean the results would be um.. an interesting experiment
Also, the quote you took from my post in the other thread was actually regarding LH2.3 and EZ-K, which are the ecu's found in 87-95 928's (early LH cars have EZ-F, not EZ-K). I pointed that out in my next post in that thread. Per John Speake, there are some differences between the hardware of the LH2.2 ecu's used, but programmatically the chips are functionally equivalent (i.e. maps and parameters in the same place) so chips can be swapped between ecu's.
10-10-2010, 09:12 AM
#13
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Chris i dont have a 32 Valver tool ,
i have been using the cam cover off to set the cam timing with a used belt
i have been using the cam cover off to set the cam timing with a used belt
10-10-2010, 10:17 AM
#14
Pro
[QUOTE=Hilton;7962650]Tilac, the chips have fuel maps and ignition timing aimed specifically for the 5.0L 32V engine using an S4 fuel pressure regulator.
Technically, I believe they will work in the LH2.2 ecu's found in the 16V cars, but the different displacement, cams, intake, exhaust, valve sizes, number of valves etc. would mean the results would be um.. an interesting experiment
Hilton,
Thanks for the clarification. Seems the differences would be too great between the 16V and the 32V. Would be a very interesting experiment indeed. One of the new chip's features that really interests me would be the gentle reduction of fuel during lift-off/shifting. The abrupt fuel cut-off of the stock chip when lifting makes it hard to be smooth. Thanks again.
Technically, I believe they will work in the LH2.2 ecu's found in the 16V cars, but the different displacement, cams, intake, exhaust, valve sizes, number of valves etc. would mean the results would be um.. an interesting experiment
Hilton,
Thanks for the clarification. Seems the differences would be too great between the 16V and the 32V. Would be a very interesting experiment indeed. One of the new chip's features that really interests me would be the gentle reduction of fuel during lift-off/shifting. The abrupt fuel cut-off of the stock chip when lifting makes it hard to be smooth. Thanks again.
10-10-2010, 10:33 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
The problem of chip interchangeablilty is only with the early LH2.2 used on MY 84 16v Euro's only. This has the part number 928 618 123 00. This has a different clock crystal and a completely different software structure to the 85/86 Euro 16v and USA 32v.
The 85/86 Euro 16v LH2.2 are 928 618 123 02. USA 32v version is 05. The Euro version doesn't include the components for ISV and O2 sensor.
So although you could use Ken's 32v chip in an 85/86 16v Euro LH2.2, and the car will run, the fuel maps may still require adjustment. And the O2 loop would need nulling.
All the EZ-F ECUs are interchangable, 84-86.
The 85/86 Euro 16v LH2.2 are 928 618 123 02. USA 32v version is 05. The Euro version doesn't include the components for ISV and O2 sensor.
So although you could use Ken's 32v chip in an 85/86 16v Euro LH2.2, and the car will run, the fuel maps may still require adjustment. And the O2 loop would need nulling.
All the EZ-F ECUs are interchangable, 84-86.