BRB-83-911SC

84 Euro: When I peek inside the inspection hole, I can see just about the whole release arm. Am I correct in that for a non-worn dual disk clutch you should not see the arm at all, and that the wear limit is when you can just begin to see the arm?

I ask because I suspect that something other than excessive wear is going on.

- PO records indicate new clutch 16,000 miles ago (at 19,000 miles)
- Clutch does not slip
- Clutch DOES occasionally drag when pedal is fully depressed
- Clutch hyrdaulics have been inspected, new fluid, bled
- Release arm ball cup good
- Slave piston travel OK
- Initial clutch "bite" immediately from floor (can hear rattles until full engagement)
- Full engagement about 3/4 of the way out
- Car running, in neatral, clutch out - can gear what sounds to me like bearing noise

Car is completely driveable as is, except for weak synchros probably caused by this clutch not fully releasing.

So, my question is - short of totally worn out clutch discs - what else in the assembly could cause the release arm to be so visible? Is there any way that this clutch could have been assembled incorrectly in the past? I plan to pull the lower bell housing once I get my lift bars, but was just curious as to what I might expect to find given the symptoms. I know that the real answer is to pull the pack and see for myself, but was hoping for a bit of a preview. Thanks.

PorKen

This is what my '85 looked like when I bought the car.

BRB-83-911SC

Thanks Ken. The line "Beginning with 1983 models...." clears it up for me - nothing unusual then in my 84 in that I can see the release arm - pretty much centered in the inspection hole. Looks like my clutch it just about to the wear limit.

Landseer

There is an intermediate splined shaft that needs to be coated with a special emolient to ensure the discs don't hangup. Rattle could be TO bearing., not sure. Not that hard to disassemble, clean, refit. A little tricky, don't let it drop on your head. Do you have pictures of the parts? Search clutch and my name and you will find some if nec.

mark kibort

more than likely, the clutch is not releasing due to mis adjusted intermediate plate . pull the lower cover. (easy) and check. visually, the gap should be ever so slight. (at the H adjusters, 3 of them around the int plate)

jcorenman

That seems odd after only 16,000 miles. And the original clutch replacement at 19,000 also seems way too early. Do you have any more info on that original change?

You mentioned bearing noise in neutral, clutch engaged. That could be TT bearings (again not expected with low miles). The TO bearing is unloaded then but still spinning, seems less likely as a noise source. But if the plastic ball-cup socket at the top of the release arm is worn or broken, then that can make noise when the clutch pedal is completely released. The key test here is very slight pressure on the pedal, if the noise stops then it is probably a vibration or rattle in the release-arm ball/socket. It can be accessed (barely) from above.

Other possibilities for dragging clutch: It is common for the clutch to start engaging with the pedal near the floor, but there should be some margin. If the clutch MC was changed, the newer ones have a shorter travel-- which can cause problems.

A worn short-shaft can cause problems (wear-pattern in the splines pushes the disks back to their "old" position), ditto lack of grease as mentioned.

Also, if the "H-tabs" on the intermediate plate are loose, then they won't hold adjustment and the clutch will drag. The instructions in the WSM work for some, others find that the clutch works better if the tabs are adjusted manually for a clearance of 0.7mm or so-- lots of threads on this is you dig around.

Cheers,

mark kibort

take off the cover and show a picture of the H tabs. if they are loose, they will go to max quicly and you wont even be able to get it in gear. if it is constantly draging, its probably a misadjustement from the start. it will wear synchros quicky, so check it. its 20min at best to check and adjust. Ill walk you through it when you get there.

BRB-83-911SC

Thanks guys. IP adjustment is first order of attack. Will also inspect disks at that time for wear. The whole thing may need to come out, which would be over the Winter. I have suspected IP adjustment, or binding on the splined shaft.

The car's service history and low miles adds intrigue - I bought it from the original owner, with all records from new. Records indicate regular use (between 1 and 2k miles per year) and annual state inspection records support the low mileage, as well as the original Bill of Sale from the importer dated 9/83. When the clutch was replaced at 19k miles, the synchros were as well. This leads me to wonder if there has been something wrong from the start that the work done did not fix. The work was done by a reputable shop in the Pittsburgh area, maybe 10 years ago. I'll see what parts were replaced when I get home tonight.

In any event, it may be a few weeks before I can pull the lower bell housing. Thanks!

928 obsession

Your short shaft is probably worn, as are the clutch disk splines. If they have wear, which they probably do, it will cause the clutch to drag. When I pulled my clutch the center shaft was greatly worn, you could rub your finger over the splines and feel the grooves, causing the front disk to rub against the flywheel. Just something to look for when you drop the clutch.