ptuomov

I have one. Leave it on the bedroom dresser and your date knows you're into special tools.

auzivision

Wow, the head on that thing is 3/4 inch by about 3 inches... I wonder if it will fit?

kccampro

Wow... I'm a little late to say this but what great fridge picture...

auzivision

Cracked open the intake and sure enough, it’s flaking all over the place.



At first I thought it was going to be manageable



until this stuff started literally coming off in sheets… off to a blaster it goes.



The casting on these intakes is horrendous. At first I thought this was covered with goo until I hit it with a wire wheel.



I don’t think this isn’t will smooth out without some sort of filler. Rumor has it these were cast out of savaged engine blocks and I’m beginning to believing it.

auzivision

Thanks to Hans, the cam covers are back from the powder coater. These will make a huge improvement in the looks department wouldn’t say?




Thanks to Troy, the intake has been blasted (he has a blast cabinet where he works). Even though he sent it through a parts washers and power blew it twice, I was a little paranoid about remaining media in the intakes.

So first I pulled rags soaked with carb clean through the ports:




Scrubbed them with straight simple geen and a long flexible brush:




Washed with piping hot water and simple green twice. Repeatedly dunking the intake from every conceivable angle both upside down and right side up.




Double rinses until all the water was clean.




I hope this is clean enough

BPG_Austin

blasted intake looks CLEAN! Nice work. Question for Troy. What media did you use to blast the intake? Just curious. Kurt, awesome job scrubbing the intake out. You won't have any issues with contamination.

auzivision

Another great thread on intake R&R with real life examples of challenges one might face:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...on-intake.html

If I was a little better about reading, I could have learned a few things before jumping into my project. However, I’ve read enough now to feel comfortable about finishing this project.

Although like this guy, I’m too am guilty of spending more time cleaning and polishing parts, than removing and replacing… something about it I find therapeutic.

AO

You left the flappy bearing in place?

You better work that thing back and forth a whole bunch, and lube it up good. Not sure what type of lube to use, but otherwise you may end up with a sticky flappy especially if any blasing media got in there.

auzivision

No worries... flappy bearings are being replaced. Also have throttle bearing on hand in case I'm feeling the need.

Just about replacing everything… all sensors (hall, crank, throttle, knock, temp2), gaskets, rubber hoses and pieces, vacuum lines and connectors, plugs (one range cooler), and ISV.

Items not be replaced, upgraded, or overhauled that will need attention down the road are injectors and MAF. Those will be addressed with the next stage

AO

Good. There was a thread some time ago on the best way to pull the flappy bearings. It used a wall anchor available from Lowes, Home Depot, etc. I used this method myself and was amazed at how easy it was to pull them. I'll see if I can pull up that post.

Edit: Found it. Cheap Flappy Bearing removal

auzivision

Great post, thanks AO. I’ll definitely use this technique.


Intake prepped for painting




Bridge taped up too






Painting



Painted (3 color, 1 clear)… Not the greatest, but they’ll do for know. Way to many imperfections in the casts to get decent results.



Some sort of tiny bugs were evidently attracted to the smell of the clear coat. Now I have Jurassic park intakes. I’ll lightly sand and add a couple more thin layers of clean (while in the garage).

auzivision

I have all the parts now to finish the timing belt and water pump this weekend.




Right now, I’m at TDC and I think the cam gear positions looks about right. Do these look right?









I sprayed some Kroil on the WP bolts after tapping them with a hammer; hopefully no surprises there. Getting ready to remove lock, crank forward to 45, reset lock, mark gears, and remove belt.


Question, since I’m changing cam sprockets, do I just transfer the marks from one gear to the other… or since I have a VR32 on hand, that won’t be necessary?

Bill Ball

I mark the position of the three small bolts relative to the adjustment slots in the gear. On the right side, you can outline an edge of one of the round cutouts on the Hall plate behind the gear. That will get things very close, but, if you have Porken's tool, use it.

Cosmo Kramer

Looks really good, nice job on the intake! One thing to consider since you have it all apart is timing your cams with Ken's PK32VR tool. I had 6 deg of separation between the two banks on my 85! Cam timing is very important when you start adding boost.

Tony

Was I the only one that read this a different way.

Ive been living in Vegas tooooo long and visiting OT section too much! Thats "Tempest Storm"..Vegas's oldest sttripper..born in '28..you do the math!