Twin Turbo 928 fixed and back out there terrorizing the streets!
#707
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Good progress.
You'll be wanting Greg Brown's replacement clutch hose hose. I don't see the OE one living long in the factory configuration. Doc Brown's routes differently and may make it easier to shield it from the heat.
You'll be wanting Greg Brown's replacement clutch hose hose. I don't see the OE one living long in the factory configuration. Doc Brown's routes differently and may make it easier to shield it from the heat.
#708
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By the way, one question that people may have is why all these stainless steel braided lines. The lines are a pain in the ***, heavy, and destroy anything in their vicinity if not fastened really thoughtfully. The answer is that whenever any part of the hose, an end or some part of the middle section, is exposed to heat, the stainless steel braided line distributes that heat over a large area and then acts like a radiator cooling it. The cooling effect is very large, the whole hose will be hot to touch but almost never so hot that it anything will be damaged.
Last edited by ptuomov; 11-25-2013 at 10:19 AM.
#709
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Great progress. I saw that clutch slave line and thought the same thing. Heck I've got headers on both cars and the clutch line doesn't like that very much. Think of the heat from those turbos... but it sounds like you;ve got it under control.
And man... talk about packaging. There isn't room in there for anything! Yikes!
So Tuomo,
What are your intentions for doing all this? To make another one-off high HP twin-turbo, make a kit, etc? While I'm sure this car will make tons of HP (750+) I would be concerned with other weak links. The clutch and drive shaft come to mind. I assume you'll have some type of progressive controller, or a different engine management systesm?
And man... talk about packaging. There isn't room in there for anything! Yikes!
So Tuomo,
What are your intentions for doing all this? To make another one-off high HP twin-turbo, make a kit, etc? While I'm sure this car will make tons of HP (750+) I would be concerned with other weak links. The clutch and drive shaft come to mind. I assume you'll have some type of progressive controller, or a different engine management systesm?
#710
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Great progress. I saw that clutch slave line and thought the same thing. Heck I've got headers on both cars and the clutch line doesn't like that very much. Think of the heat from those turbos... but it sounds like you;ve got it under control. And man... talk about packaging. There isn't room in there for anything! Yikes! So Tuomo, What are your intentions for doing all this? To make another one-off high HP twin-turbo, make a kit, etc? While I'm sure this car will make tons of HP (750+) I would be concerned with other weak links. The clutch and drive shaft come to mind. I assume you'll have some type of progressive controller, or a different engine management systesm?
Clutch that I have I don't like, but it'll hold 750 ft-lbs without a problem. Transmission (stock 5-speed) I also don't like, but I don't think it's going to blow up with street tires, as long as it's cooled properly. In any case, if it does, then I'll deal with that when that problem comes.
There's no purpose or need for any of this, so I refuse to be constrained by any logic of why! ;-)
I don't plan to be in any parts business, let alone 928 parts business. I trade stocks for living, and although the amount of swearing is about the same in trading stocks and playing with cars, the former activity is decisively more lucrative. I am just documenting this build. It's John doing all the work anyway.
Also, the purpose of this thread is not to advertise any products on RL, so people who are interested in those questions will have to go to google and look for John's website.
#711
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Yeah, we've got a new turbo-friendly clutch line in mind that will play together better with these new turbines and downpipes. The number of hoses and hard lines that we've made (mostly John but also me) for each iteration of this turbo system is very high. You wouldn't guess.
By the way, one question that people may have is why all these stainless steel braided lines. The lines are a pain in the ***, heavy, and destroy anything in their vicinity if not fastened really thoughtfully. The answer is that whenever any part of the hose, an end or some part of the middle section, is exposed to heat, the stainless steel braided line distributes that heat over a large area and then acts like a radiator cooling it. The cooling effect is very large, the whole hose will be hot to touch but almost never so hot that it anything will be damaged.
By the way, one question that people may have is why all these stainless steel braided lines. The lines are a pain in the ***, heavy, and destroy anything in their vicinity if not fastened really thoughtfully. The answer is that whenever any part of the hose, an end or some part of the middle section, is exposed to heat, the stainless steel braided line distributes that heat over a large area and then acts like a radiator cooling it. The cooling effect is very large, the whole hose will be hot to touch but almost never so hot that it anything will be damaged.
Roger stocks them, also.
#713
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It's ridiculous what kind of time and money we spent on dynoing the previous small-turbo version. To avoid that kind of waste of time and money, John bought a dyno. It arrived yesterday.
On other news, the turbo cold sides have been cut and welded. Beads are still needed for the new inlets, should be ready today. Then the turbo speed sensor slots need to be milled in, and I think then it's pretty much ready to be put together and fired up for the first tests.
On other news, the turbo cold sides have been cut and welded. Beads are still needed for the new inlets, should be ready today. Then the turbo speed sensor slots need to be milled in, and I think then it's pretty much ready to be put together and fired up for the first tests.
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I hope JK appreciates having a Patron.
#715
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It's ridiculous what kind of time and money we spent on dynoing the previous small-turbo version. To avoid that kind of waste of time and money, John bought a dyno. It arrived yesterday.
On other news, the turbo cold sides have been cut and welded. Beads are still needed for the new inlets, should be ready today. Then the turbo speed sensor slots need to be milled in, and I think then it's pretty much ready to be put together and fired up for the first tests.
On other news, the turbo cold sides have been cut and welded. Beads are still needed for the new inlets, should be ready today. Then the turbo speed sensor slots need to be milled in, and I think then it's pretty much ready to be put together and fired up for the first tests.
Åke
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On the dyno:
It's a hub dyno with pods, like the Dynapack. There are two Klam eddy current retarders in the pods. The wheels are removed, one of the three adapters is bolted up first to the axel and then to the pod. There are three adapters, each drilled for 4 different bolt patterns. These units can be added onto with a 2nd set of pods for AWD later and also can be easily moved.
Like all modern dyno systems, it has the multi-channel data acquisition package. Pressure, thermal, etc. Of course, with data acquisition, there's never enough sampling frequency or channels etc. It's like money, hard to have too much.
The dyno also has a control logic. You can tell it what rpm to start the pull and when to stop the pull as well as the rate of sweep. Or you can have it control the engine at a fixed rpm and it'll hold you there. The car operator can then sweep the load range at that given rpm with the gas pedal and/or the boost controller.
The dyno can hold about 1000 rear axle hp at a constant rpm with proper cooling. The dyno can measure more, but it'll sweep instead of holding a constant rpm. Of course it depends on the gearing because both torque and rpm matter.
These machines are more of an R&D tool than a machine you roll a lot of cars on and off to get the "number". They should also be safer as compared to a rolling road. The risk of a car launching off the machine is no longer there, although of course many unexpected things can happen with 1000 hp being laid down in any setting.
It's a hub dyno with pods, like the Dynapack. There are two Klam eddy current retarders in the pods. The wheels are removed, one of the three adapters is bolted up first to the axel and then to the pod. There are three adapters, each drilled for 4 different bolt patterns. These units can be added onto with a 2nd set of pods for AWD later and also can be easily moved.
Like all modern dyno systems, it has the multi-channel data acquisition package. Pressure, thermal, etc. Of course, with data acquisition, there's never enough sampling frequency or channels etc. It's like money, hard to have too much.
The dyno also has a control logic. You can tell it what rpm to start the pull and when to stop the pull as well as the rate of sweep. Or you can have it control the engine at a fixed rpm and it'll hold you there. The car operator can then sweep the load range at that given rpm with the gas pedal and/or the boost controller.
The dyno can hold about 1000 rear axle hp at a constant rpm with proper cooling. The dyno can measure more, but it'll sweep instead of holding a constant rpm. Of course it depends on the gearing because both torque and rpm matter.
These machines are more of an R&D tool than a machine you roll a lot of cars on and off to get the "number". They should also be safer as compared to a rolling road. The risk of a car launching off the machine is no longer there, although of course many unexpected things can happen with 1000 hp being laid down in any setting.
#720
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Tuomo, you did not say what brand of hub mounted dyno John has acquired. To my knowledge there are three different brands of hub mounted dynos in the market.
1) Rototest Sweden hydraulic or eddy current http://www.rototest.com/rototest-dynamometer.php
2) Dynapack New Zealand hydraulic http://www.dynapack.com/
3) Dyno-mite USA? eddy current http://www.land-and-sea.com/axle-hub...e-hub-dyno.htm
Are there any more of which I am not aware of?
So far I have not evaluated what dyno in respect of technical advantages and costs will suit my needs best but any inputs from you guys will be most appreciated.
http://rototest-research.eu/index.php?DN=47
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...king-good.html
http://www.hotrod.com/techfaq/hrdp_0...e/viewall.html
Åke
1) Rototest Sweden hydraulic or eddy current http://www.rototest.com/rototest-dynamometer.php
2) Dynapack New Zealand hydraulic http://www.dynapack.com/
3) Dyno-mite USA? eddy current http://www.land-and-sea.com/axle-hub...e-hub-dyno.htm
Are there any more of which I am not aware of?
So far I have not evaluated what dyno in respect of technical advantages and costs will suit my needs best but any inputs from you guys will be most appreciated.
http://rototest-research.eu/index.php?DN=47
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...king-good.html
http://www.hotrod.com/techfaq/hrdp_0...e/viewall.html
Åke